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  #1  
Old 01-28-2003, 11:14 AM
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Dual Cell mod problems

How do you get the second cell to fit with the body on?
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  #2  
Old 01-28-2003, 02:05 PM
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Zeph, you either have to put the cell on externally, modyfiy the heck out of the chassis (look in bit science), or do the layman's dual cell mod (also in bit science).
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Old 01-28-2003, 04:56 PM
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I stuck mine in the back window like most other folks...

Dual cell
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Old 01-28-2003, 09:05 PM
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Okay thanks. I finished it, but it's not going the speed it should. It's only going at normal speed. Do you know what's wrong? I'm using 2 Tomy NiCD batteries.
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Old 01-28-2003, 09:35 PM
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u out it in parralel if it was in series then it would go fasta
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Old 01-28-2003, 10:54 PM
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What I did was attached the positive of the second cell to the negative of the first cell and taped it up for insulation. Then I hooked up the negative of the second cell to the metal tab that connects to the negative of the first cell. Is that in series or parallel?
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Old 01-28-2003, 11:47 PM
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That's series. So did you get both cells in the chassis cuz if you need help I can get some pics for you. Just takes some dremeling and re-wiring.
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Old 01-28-2003, 11:53 PM
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I'm deciding to just make the cell stick out the back antenna window. I don't want to completely take it apart to get it to fit inside. If that's series, then why is it only going at normal speeds. The only difference I noticed was that it was hrder to turn.
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Old 01-28-2003, 11:54 PM
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What are you using to charge it and how long are you charging for?
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Old 01-29-2003, 01:05 AM
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Well anyways, if you are charging it correctly and it's still F'ing up, one of your soldering points to the 2nd cell might have come undone. That would mean your Bit is only using the power of one cell while carrying around the added and now uneccesary weight of a 2nd cell. Hope everything goes well.
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Old 01-29-2003, 08:15 AM
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Seems to me like if one of the solder joints came loose, it wouldn't work at all because the curcuit wouldn't be completed. Anyway, I'm with skater252000 in that I think you probably have a problem with the charging. Did you do the Tomy Controller Charger Conversion mod to the stock charger? I did that mod first, and it didn't work that well for charging both cells. I ended up making a stand-alone charger with some KIT racing chargers for parts. Check it out HERE .
I think you really need four AA batteries to charge a dual-cell car.
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Old 01-29-2003, 07:02 PM
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That's pretty cool. I hve 6 K.I.T. Racers so that could be a good idea. Could you give me directions on the charger?
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Old 01-31-2003, 12:03 AM
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Why didn't you just get a battery pack that holds 4 AA's from Radio Shack for like $1.50? Not that yours doesn't work or anything but doesn't it kinda seem like a waste of parts, plus the battery pack is much smaller?
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Old 01-31-2003, 11:12 AM
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Could you also get the batteries used for the Layman's dual cell mod at Radioshack?
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Old 01-31-2003, 12:01 PM
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I used the KIT racing chargers because I had them and I had no other use for them. I know about the four-cell holders, but I didn't want to spend any money, and I like a project. There's also the benefit of a solid mount for the charging pad.

Zephyranthes:

If you want to make a charger like mine, here's the general instructions:

Stuff you'll need: Two KIT racing chargers, phillips screwdriver, knife, soldering iron and solder, double sided tape, some wire, and something that can cut and shape plastic. I used a Dremel tool, but whatever you can use and not loose a finger is good, like a small file.

1) Open one KIT racing charger and discard all the guts. You only need the battery holder and the plastic case. Reshape the opening for the KIT racing charging pad to hold the Bit charging pad snuggly. Now would also be a good time to remove the blue wire that connects the + to the - on the bottom of the battery holder. We'll call this battery holder the internal one.

2) Remove the back cover of the second charger and cut out the battery holder. I used the Dremel tool with a cut-off wheel. Leave the blue wire intact on this battery holder. We'll call this one the external holder.

3) Solder some wire to the contacts on the top of the external holder. I used some wire from an old CPU fan I had because it was red and black colored. Color doesn't matter, as long as you don't get it mixed up. We need one wire from the + side, and another from the - side. The wire should be at least 5 inches long so you'll have enough to make the internal connections.

4) Bore a hole in the back cover of the first charger for the wires from the external pack to pass through, and stick them through it.

5) Solder the wires from the external pack to the bottom contacts of the internal pack (where the blue wire was removed). Make sure the + wire from the external pack goes to the - contact on the internal pack and the - wire from the external goes to the + contact on the internal pack.

6) Solder some wires from the top contacts of the internal pack to the Bit charging pad. Make sure the + contact on the internal pack goes to the + terminal on the charging pad. Make sure the - contact on the internal pack goes to the - terminal on the charging pad. + and - are not labeled on my charging pad, so make a note of which one's which when you disassemble your bit charger.

7) Reassemble the first charger, making sure the bit charging pad is sticking far enough out for your car to clip onto it. Go ahead and put the batteries into the first charger and screw the battery door closed.

8) Use the double sided tape to attach the external pack to the battery door of the charger. Make sure you stick it far enough up as to allow access to the screw that holds the battery door on.

Use the pictures in that other post for reference, and here's a simple wiring schematic I drew this morning that should help make the wiring instructions make sence. The two batteries on the left side of the picrure are the external pack.

Wiring Diagram

Hope this helps...
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