motor mount mod

[2000-redrider]

Here's a quick and easy way to move your motor in front of the rear axle. The picture is self explanitory. It may not be the prettiest but it works. I used 5/32 round aluminum tubing in the middle to hold the bushing in.

[2000-redrider]

Here's a shot from the rear showing the center spacer. I don't know why, but this set up has seemed to cure the shakes it had and has also minimized the cars tendency to drift at high rpms.

[Hicountry]

Hey Red,

It looks like you are running 7.2v. You are running the same motor I have. What benifits did you get from swapping the rear end around?

If you move the cross brace to the back of the motor pod again you can install a better rear shock.

That is an interesting electronics package. Did you get rid of your top deck?

My car spins out too easily on any surface. It also turns one way tighter than the other. It is only noticible from a standing start when you spin the back end around. The other way the car actually turns instead of spinning.

I run foams front and rear. It helps but not enough. As soon as I get some new wheels I am going to get some 30 shore tires from IRC.

I drove a DRR (not to different from mine) tonight that is fast on a tight track. I still need a lot of practice, but it can be controlled. The guy who owns it had an even faster car and he can really drive it!!

[2000-redrider]

The car seems to be a lot more stable after the swap. I still have to go easy on the throttle, and it still spins out easier one way than the other, just not as bad.

The electronics are the stock electronics, I just cut it apart and rearranged it.

I'm not using the rear shock because I want the back as soft as possible. The thing is now, even in the shortest setting, the wheelbase is longer than longest stock setting.

I'm not using the top deck because I want the lowest CG I can get. Also, the battery pack seems to provide enough support so I felt the top deck was not necessary.

The swap will take you less than 10 min. to do. Give it a try and see what you think. The good thing is, you can always change it back.

[avenan]

redrider-
The one problem with the way you reversed the pod is the bushings. If you look on the diff side, while the inner diff hub (?) is slightly dished, it will still rub against the plastic of the motor mount. I reamed the holes, and used flanged bearings on the outside of the mounts, like the original bearings/bushings would be. An alternate idea might be to cut an additional small piece of aluminum for the outside of the mount. Or maybe you're lucky and it doesn't rub.

The wheelbase with the pod reversed like that is about 4.75". You *can* get 1/24 slotcar bodies in a 4.5" wheelbase. If you drill new holes in the tbar, you can shift the mounts up about a 1/4". Just enough to get a slotcar body on. If you have 1/32" fiberglass lying around, you can just make a new t-bar, which is probably the best thing to do.

[2000-redrider]

So far I haven't had any problems with the diff rubbing on the mount. I may put a spacer in though, just in case.

Avenan- are you running with the pod reversed? Do you think it handles better than the stock set up?

[avenan]

I'm actually in the process of building a car from scratch, so the DRR that had the reversed motor pod is being canibalized for motor mounts.

But when I was running it, it did seem less likely to trade the back end with the front, and seemed less squirrely when accelerating. Its hard to say if this is because of the longer wheelbase, removal of the upper spring/shock thing, OR, in fact, moving the motor. Any way you look at it, though, it did handle better.

[dtmracer]

GREAT IDEA, i think one of the flaws in the drr design is the super stiff rear suspension because of the motor mount position, this probably fixed it.