6 Volt mod test with video-Any ideas?

[jpaustin]

I have installed a 6 volt battery in my clone. It was super fast. I have posted a video of it that had the 28L photo Lithium battery installed. I actually just taped it to the top of it since I was testing it. I had the battery laying around since I had brought the wrong one for my camera and could not return it opened. If you want to see click the link . I have a couple more test runs so post a request and I will add the others links.

http://members.aol.com/buycompuparts/1strun.mpg

Well I hope from posting this that I could be some ideas from you to make this more of a fun fast car with this type of high volt battery.
I am going to try a dual battery mod to compare the results. If the 6 volt is faster then the first thing I am going to do is look to see if there is a 6 volt battery out there that is rechargble and then get a zipzap since it has a bigger chasis and could hold this battery. I would the probably replace the pcb in it with the one from this car. If any electronics experts knows if this is really equal to 6 volt of the rechargable batterys please post your reply. Thanks



Results
Overall- First of from what I saw from testing is that this clone (fit Racer) can run 6 volts (but not sure about the milliamps) without the pcb getting fried. The next thing I found is that its not really a good idea to use unless you want to go straight only but would have to really modify the sloppy front wheels. Its wasn't reallly fun either because I could not steer the car and it keeped fliping over all the time.

Steering- I had disabled the steering and fastened the streering bar to stay straight but the front wheels still had too much gap on the pins which cause the car to sway left and right at times. Also its does not really look nice with this battery taped to the top since it could not fit in the battery compartment.(If you have ideas please let me know then maybe I will look for a 6volt rechargable battery like this one.) When I had renabled the steering the wheels would turn left and right but would stick because I think the steering coils were too charged. Also at full speed when turning the car would just flip on its side. I guess its going to fast and the controls dont allow for gradually turning. I also dont thing that having the battery mounted on top helped it either.

Acceleration-The acceleration was super fast compared to the original battery but I am not sure how it compairs to the dual battery mod(I have ordered the batteries but am waiting to receive them). Here is the thing though...If I accelerated 80 percent of the time the car would pull to the right. I think its too much power on the rear left wheel. Thats why in the video it goes to the right. Its pulls so much to the right even with the front wheels locked its goes a few feet then hits the walls. In the video that was actually a good run. I could get the car to go straight only if I started tapping the forward control until I got some speed then held it down. But by the time I got the car going the car would hit the wall (I only had about 10 to 15 foot of space of floor space).

What was being used
Bit Racer clone called a fitracer
If you are wondering the gears I were using were from a kit that goes to the zip zaps (the 2 motors and 3 gears sets). I used the red motor (23,000rpm) and had the read gears and axel which I modified to fit. The gear ratio I believe is 8:25:1.
Again the battery installed a 28L photo Lithium battery.
Internal battery was removed.
Runtime-I have not idea but its still going strong after 15 minutes. I havent tried it since then.

If you have read this far please let me know if you had any ideas or let me know what you think.

I did just want to add that I have tested this with a 3.0 motor and the results were disapointing. It took the whole length of the floor (10 to 15ft) before it just barely reached full speed and I figure it would probably be close to the end of antenna range as well.
Oh if anyone has a mod to increase the range on this fitracer please let me know thanks.

[jpaustin]

To see the link select right click and save to disk.

[mcharles13]

what did you encode it as? i can't view it

[jpaustin]

Sorry. I created the mpeg with divx. I will be posting another video tommorow that really show the speed this 6 volt car.

Anyways, I now have done a dual 150 mod (both batteries in the chassis) and am compairing it to the speed of 6 volt one. I believe the miliamps also play a factor in the torque. The 6 volt battery only had 190 miliamps and the dual battery mod has 300 total.

[Chilledout]

firstly the capacity will stay the same if you put them in series as the voltage is doubled but if you put them in parallel then the capacity will double and the voltage will stay teh same.

another point is that the mah rating simply is a measurment of the amount of energy that battery contains basically it could have a current of say 150mA going from the anaode to the cathode and last for 1 hour.


it is the internal resistance (something a perfect battery would not have) that effects the ability of the battery to alow current to flow.

Batteries with higher mah ratings dont necesarely have lower internal resitance it is quite common in 1/10th rc to have lower capacity batteries that more punch than there higher capacity brothers.
This is the exact reason lithium ion and lithium polymer cells are not used in rc as currents under hard aceleration on nicads and nimh bateries are very high. Lithium cells have too high internal resistance at the moment to allow these currents to flow and thus would seem flat with very poor acceleration when driven. also they would get much hotter as the higher the resitance the more heat is generated.

[jpaustin]

Thanks for the information. What I did noticed is that compaired to the dual battery mod (3 volts) and the 6 volt litium battery is that the 6 volt did really have a lot of speed to it. The battery was slight warm.

Do you think that what you mentioned about the differences in battery make a huge difference in small components? Because when I did have the six volt battery in it the motor sounded really mean.

[funkymonkey]

I would imagine that with the low currents drawn by these motors that a lithium-ion or poly would be more than capable of delivering the load.

I can see how it would be a factor in bigger cars though.

Ni-Cads are known for their ability to dole out very high currents when required. This really is one of their many excellent properties.

[Project RC]

Originally posted by jpaustin
I have installed a 6 volt battery in my clone. It was super fast. I have posted a video of it that had the 28L photo Lithium battery installed. I actually just taped it to the top of it since I was testing it. I had the battery laying around since I had brought the wrong one for my camera and could not return it opened. If you want to see click the link . I have a couple more test runs so post a request and I will add the others links.

http://members.aol.com/buycompuparts/1strun.mpg

Well I hope from posting this that I could be some ideas from you to make this more of a fun fast car with this type of high volt battery.
I am going to try a dual battery mod to compare the results. If the 6 volt is faster then the first thing I am going to do is look to see if there is a 6 volt battery out there that is rechargble and then get a zipzap since it has a bigger chasis and could hold this battery. I would the probably replace the pcb in it with the one from this car. If any electronics experts knows if this is really equal to 6 volt of the rechargable batterys please post your reply. Thanks



Results
Overall- First of from what I saw from testing is that this clone (fit Racer) can run 6 volts (but not sure about the milliamps) without the pcb getting fried. The next thing I found is that its not really a good idea to use unless you want to go straight only but would have to really modify the sloppy front wheels. Its wasn't reallly fun either because I could not steer the car and it keeped fliping over all the time.

Steering- I had disabled the steering and fastened the streering bar to stay straight but the front wheels still had too much gap on the pins which cause the car to sway left and right at times. Also its does not really look nice with this battery taped to the top since it could not fit in the battery compartment.(If you have ideas please let me know then maybe I will look for a 6volt rechargable battery like this one.) When I had renabled the steering the wheels would turn left and right but would stick because I think the steering coils were too charged. Also at full speed when turning the car would just flip on its side. I guess its going to fast and the controls dont allow for gradually turning. I also dont thing that having the battery mounted on top helped it either.

Acceleration-The acceleration was super fast compared to the original battery but I am not sure how it compairs to the dual battery mod(I have ordered the batteries but am waiting to receive them). Here is the thing though...If I accelerated 80 percent of the time the car would pull to the right. I think its too much power on the rear left wheel. Thats why in the video it goes to the right. Its pulls so much to the right even with the front wheels locked its goes a few feet then hits the walls. In the video that was actually a good run. I could get the car to go straight only if I started tapping the forward control until I got some speed then held it down. But by the time I got the car going the car would hit the wall (I only had about 10 to 15 foot of space of floor space).

What was being used
Bit Racer clone called a fitracer
If you are wondering the gears I were using were from a kit that goes to the zip zaps (the 2 motors and 3 gears sets). I used the red motor (23,000rpm) and had the read gears and axel which I modified to fit. The gear ratio I believe is 8:25:1.
Again the battery installed a 28L photo Lithium battery.
Internal battery was removed.
Runtime-I have not idea but its still going strong after 15 minutes. I havent tried it since then.

If you have read this far please let me know if you had any ideas or let me know what you think.

I did just want to add that I have tested this with a 3.0 motor and the results were disapointing. It took the whole length of the floor (10 to 15ft) before it just barely reached full speed and I figure it would probably be close to the end of antenna range as well.
Oh if anyone has a mod to increase the range on this fitracer please let me know thanks.

Did you wire it staight to the PCB? If so, do you think the PCB can take that much voltage?

[jpaustin]

Yes it was wired straight to the pcb and it had no problems. But what I have recently done was take that pcb and inplant it into a zipzap since it had more space for batteries. I have since been purchased four 1/4AAA batteries and have them installed under the pt crusier body. I am actually looking into getting a mod
that sessiz10 posted it involves http://www.tinyrc.com/forums/showth...=&threadid=6045

using smaller batteries that have a 40mah. It will be less run time than the stock batteries but the batteries I currently have in there are 50mah. I runs for between 3 and 5 minutes. Another thing about this mod is that I believe that car wont flip over as much as with the larger batteries installed.
I almost forgot that the pcb I am using is a clone one. Its called a fit racer and cost 10 bucks. I one main difference I noticed in the pcb from the zipzap one is that the chip is covered with a black blob and the fitracer has the chip exposed and is much larger. I will post a pic of it.

[jpaustin]

I wont be checking this thread anymore since I have had more success with the following other threads. Plus the lithium battery was too bulky and could not fit the body on top of it. The video link above no longer works so that the videos from the theads below could be seen.


4 cell mod
http://www.tinyrc.com/forums/showthr...&threadid=7120


5 cell laymans mod

http://www.tinyrc.com/forums/showthr...3276#post63276