Need to Flip PCB for a dual B mod?

[ejaf]

OK...Just ordered the batteries...

All pics of the dual battery mod I have seen seem to flip the PCB over, yet all threads of the mod do not mention that fact, so I am assuming you don't have to. However, it looks real close with some of the electronics on the passenger side (looking from above with PCB installed).

Is it necessary with the dual bat mod, or can you get both in w/o the flip?

Thanks in Advance

[Stridex]

Dual bats in zips are just pointless if you ask me. Unless...

Here's what I'd do if I was you. Buy a small bit or cheap clone. Take that "much" smaller board out and replace it in your zip. Now you can fit two batteries without flipping the board. When Zips make a van body or if you can find one, you can flip the board on it's side and stack as many bats as you want.

The dual bats will increase runtimes in Zips as is, but don't expect more speed. The PCB only lets so much current thru as it is. While the bits(clones) PCB boards do not regulate the current-nearly as much. Yes, people have had a lot of success and speed increases with what you want to do, but don't forget... those success stories came from bit or clones owners. Zip owners that tell you they saw a lot of speed are fooling them selves. I've done every mod in the book.

IMO, this is a must mod for zip owners. Imagine the speed of a bit with the control of the zip. You just can't get any better.

[ejaf]

Whhooooaaaa...

Is this true? If I am getting a reading of ~ 70 to ~ 115 mA at the motor contact points, and I put two batteries in series I am NOT going to increase the current x2?

My bit clones that I have are pumping out a lot more current to the motor, so I thought bu putting 2 in series I would be able to get more juice to the motor, which would allow me to slap in some KIT motors I picked up (2.2 and a 2.6).

Somebody let me know, so I can cancel 1/2 of my order

[Stridex]

You'll always need batteries, so don't cancel, but yes it's true. People don't realize the huge difference in the boards. The ZZ board absolutely stinks.

When I say I've done every mod, I truly mean it. I have atleast 10 zips in pieces, never to be run again. My trial and error days are over. For the perfect car, just switch out the PCB boards and you got it made. After that, you can add an additional motor and battery to it and get even more creative, but switching out the PCB should be any true ZZ owners first Mod.

[ejaf]

OK...It's good to know that I've only delved into messing 1 zz up, so I definitely must bow to someone with your experience (man I wish I had the time to mess up more !!!).

As far as the PCB stinking...that's a pretty strong statement. Yes, as far as pushing out total current to the motor, it stinks, but when I examine the soldeiring joints themselves, they look pretty good to me (don't have a Bit to compare against as far as quality is concerned, though, only a Panther and Shen Qi Wei).

I could probably do the switch (although those steering wires are pretty hairy), but one thing has peaked my curiosity...

I have read a thread started by Namura about the current measurents out the back end ( ), and a couple of the HC e-whizes seem to think that the current is being pulse modulated.

Why? Maybe Ka Wah has something up their sleeves in the future for that? I've noticed the "Turbo" on the Xmitter IC, and there are a couple of other things which are just lost in space. I started another thread about this, to find out whether there are any advantages regarding PM, but no one has answered.

The current I got off of the zip was between 70 an 110 mA, but off the clone was a solid 291 mA!!! (yup, that could power two zip motors).

Do you have any ideas on that? Or am I totally off the wall with my thinking (since I am not an EE, each thread that gets tech here fries ~ 1% of my brain cells, but since only 10% being used, I've got 90% to waste!!!)

[Stridex]

The board is very well built. I only say it stinks cos the governor they've seem to put on it. They're holding back way too much power and I thought it was to help increase the run times for the crappy batteries they come with. NiCd batteries hold a charge a lot better and that might be why the bits can throw all it's power through the PCB.

You may or may not be onto something about future controller hop-ups. Would be interesting and I'd love to see it happen. If that's what they're planning, then they're aftermarket geniuses. I'm no EE either and what I tell you only comes from experience. IMO, I think the PCB errors come from trying not to copyright infringe on the Bits and others board designs. They weren't allowed to just say here's a board, copy it and let's get these on the market. They had to make them differently (this means the current couldn't flow thru the same resistor and chip set-up). Because of this, I believe the power had to be compromised. This might be a small price to pay for getting into the game so late.

These are all guesses. I have no real knowledge of why they made the boards the way they did. I knew I should have taken that schollie from MIT.

[ejaf]

That makes sense...

I'm waiting to see what Nightwing finds out with the schematic he's cooking up on the PCB...