Insane X-Mod ideas...am I on Crack?

[theMonster]

Okay, I'm mainly a monster truck guy but have a few X-mod ideas. Shoot me down if they're whack.

1. Has anyone seen the Twin-Turbo add on for the Mini-Zs? I guess this is supposed to boost the power handling capacity of the ESC and increase the output by adding more FETS. Anone think this will work on an Xmod?

2. 5th cell. I want to buy the 1.5V rechargable Rayovacs as opposed to the 1.25V other brands and then add on a 5th cell. I head of a guy doing this in this forum but he and another guy are bickering like big babies so I don't trust them. Theoretically this would give the car 1.5Vx5=7.5V. This works with my Monster Truck, I am running an 8.4V pack as opposed to a 7.2V. Does anybody think that this may fry the x-mod? I know the Mini-Z can handle it.

3. Mini-Z motor. i.e. the Xspeed or something hotter (don't give me any of this garbage about Stage10 or the other hand wound one because I'm not paying $50 for a damn motor in a $50 car.)

4. Heat shield for the above Mini-Z motor. I saw somewhere, Tower I think where they were selling heat shields for the Mini-Z motors. I think they clip on like the shield for my Monster does.

5. The Xmod bodies are metal right? So how about a 1/24th scale lexan stock car body from a slot car? This will take a LOT of weight off of the car. I'd like to go with a stock car body.

Now, if all of the above is possible, I'll end up with something that will kill all other x-mods and be able to hang with and beat the Mini-Zs at a fraction of the cost. It'll be a RWD mini stock car! Gimmie your input!

btw...my normal ride:
Traxxas E-Stampede
DuraTraxx 8T ESC
Diamond Speed Gem Krytonite 9T motor
E-Maxx Tires and Wheels
Candy Blue w/yellow flames 55 Chevy body
hell yeah!

[mbartell]

cool, I have a 'pede too.
so here ya go


1 I haven't heard of anyone having the turbo work. Either nobody has tried it, or it may not work.

2 I have read in a coupple places tha tthe board can handle around 9V- anything more tends to fry things. I've found no word on amperage yet.

3 Mini z and Tamiya motors work- anything in a 180 (I think ) case that fits is good to go... try a high torque Audley motor with rare earth magnets, and a BB case.... That'd probably be the best.

4 A heat sink is a heat sink, as far as I'm concerned. The one that comes with the stage 2 motor pack is a little clunky but it works. You may need to trim the motor mount a bit to use other clip on style ones.

5 The bodies are plastic, and by the time you get all the "tuner" body parts on there, you are hauling a lot of plastic.
People have put short 1/24 and 1/25 scale car bodies on them, but I haven't seen any of the lexan slot car bodies- YET.

Of course you can probably "jangify" it a bit if you know what I mean.
Less weight always helps.

[dragon4450]

no the bodies are not metal. they are just really heavy plastic. most of the stuff you have talked about other people are doing, but that dosnt mean you cant do it too. try some of it out and let us know how it goes. were all still new to xmods and were all still learning stuff.

1. you're right, some crazy ideas, and
2. if you have to ask if youre on crack youre pobably not and it shouldn't affect your tuning of xmods or any other mini scale r/c cars...

[kingcobra]

where ya gonna stick the 5th cell? you gonna run a van body on it? or mabey pull it in a little trailer behind the car??? these things barely have enough room in them for the light circuit board let alone another cell.

one more thing... where did you get the idea these had metal bodies?

[theMonster]

eh, the dork at the local Shack told me they did. I'm buying one tomorrow. He didn't know jack, as usual for a RS employee.Hell, I asked for an FM modulator to bypass the radio signals on my Jeep's antennea so that I could hook up an Ipod to it and he said no such thing existed. Then I explained the specifics on how FM modulated CD changers work in cars and how the Sirius satellite add on they have works and he was still clueless. They had the X-mods but didn't have any on display.

about he 5th cell....I saw a guy mount the batt holder to the roof of the car body, so I fugured if there was no room to 3M it on the inside of the car, then I'd do that. Plus, the Monter Carlo stock car body I'm going to use should have a bit more clearance than the import tuner cars do....We'll see.

I'm thinking of these in the same vein of Mini-Zs, so I'm hoping all the parts or most will switch out like the microsizers, zipzaps and bits did.....again we'll see.

Hell those dorks at RS are so stupid, as long as I don't cut anything on it (which I'm not) then if it fries, doesn't work or I just don't like it, then I'll return it.

[Nathan]

1. Yes

3. Handwind your own.

[theMonster]

I saw that the Xmods have some kind of connector at the end of the motor, one had a large orange colored one and another had a small and almost corless-phone type looking connector on it. Anyone know if I can get one of these connectors without cutting it off of an engine so that I can cannibalize one of the ultra-fast mini-z motors to fit it? BTW....I found a sweet motor at tower that uses ball bearings and alll...heh heh heh.... I don't have a video camera to show video of the thing running but once I'm done I'll use my digital still camera to post pics for sure......I'll stop watch it and tell ya how fast it goes when it's completed. I'm an adult so don't worry about me posting ficticious bs times and stuff. I'll pick up the car and the new Monte Carlo body on Sat morning after I clean the leaves out of the gutters....then I'll grab the NASCAR body from the LHS....haven't decided whether to use a lexan slot car body or use a Revell/Monogram model kit....the Revell would be easier if I can find a pre-painted, but conversely the lexan slot car body would let me cut the wheel wells wherever I want, but the painting will be a b**ch. Oh well, you'll see pics when I'm done. It may not be until next weekend though, depending on if painting is needed or not. Probably won't buy the motor and turbo for a couple of weeks but will do the 5th cell right away.. anyway l8r.

[theMonster]

I came up with a little speed formula here so that you guys can get the true speeds of your Xmods using only a tape measure and a stopwatch.

Here is the formula and explanation:

5280ft=1mi
An Xmod is 1/24th scale
Therefore an Xmod scale mile is 220ft

Use a tape measure and make 2 marks in the street/parking lot, one being at 0ft and the other at 22ft.

We're working off of 1/20th of a scale mile (22ft).

now measure the time (with the stopwatch) it takes (at top speed) to go from 0ft to 22ft (take a good running start)

Let's say it took 5 seconds

5 seconds divided by 22ft=4.4 feet per second

Divide that by one mile 5280ft

you get 1200 seconds

divide that by 60 to get MPH (in this case 20)

Hope it's not too complex but if you don't have a radar gun then this will solve all the bickering over how fast the thing is going and people guessing it's going 20mph when it's doing 17.

btw...if you're smart enough to figure out the formula then you can use it on any scale vehicle.

[theMonster]

It should've read 1/10th of a scale mile, not 1/20th.....sorry

[Nii]

Nice work, Im gonna have to go outside some time and try it out.
Hope it wont form a crowd though.

[slugbugg]

theMonster,
your speed check will work but it still has the human element to it, meaning it can be/and will most likely be off a little.I guess it would be close enough for a good general comparision.

Someone has seen a lap counter at RS for the ZZ's that is supposed to do a speed check but I havnt seen it yet.I guess it has two sensors that allow it to calculate the speed from the elapsed time the sensors record.

[spork]

nathan, are you saying the twin turbo will work? Just wanted to verify this.

James

1. xmods are 1/28 and...
2. get the $10 zipzap speed and lap counter, run the xmod through it, divide the speed by 64, multiply that by 28.... DONE!!!!