actofgod, I just did a Layman's Tricell on my ZipZap, and I must say there is a noticeable increase in performance. I'm using
this adapter to charge the ZipZap. I cut off the plug that the end of the wires went into, and I spliced the wires, stripped them, and soldered them to the correct positions, as flatlander_14's tutorial said to. Earlier, when I had the first ZipZap that the Tricell worked in, I charged it for 9 minutes or so, because I thought that the adapter would PUMP OUT 300 ma. I did this with my new ZipZap, but the runtime is incredibly small. I decided to leave it on the charger more, and I noticed the runtime get a little longer...but only by 1% or something.
Then I remembered that it was regulated, and it said "up to 300ma" meaning that if necessary, it would pump out 300 ma, not constantly feed 300 ma no matter what. So, I decided that perhaps it wasn't the adapter that was pushing out 300ma, it was the batteries that were sucking 40 ma from it. I decided to leave it on the charger for 40 minutes....and it worked...well a little. After taking it off the charger for 40 minutes, I felt the bottom, and it was nice and warm (like a baby's butt

), so I figured it must be peak charged.
I then tested it with the NX motor and red gears. It was fine, but the runtime was short and it had almost no torque. So I switched to the green gears....more torque and even some higher speed.....but I only had around 3 minutes of runtime before it crapped out.
I'm thinking that it's not the batteries that pull the current, but remember how in ph2t's DIP switch mod, don't turn it off and the battery power leaks....or should I say.....gets sucked into the car? Maybe when the car isn't being used, it's the receivers or crystals (whatever) that are looking for a signal, waiting to receive them, and that takes some power.
Look at it like this: a guard officer will wait out there to stop something from going on, he won't be inside and SPRING into action as soon as someone comes.
Same with the car: It won't magically turn on as soon as the signal is being sent, rather the pcb is using up a little power and looking for a signal.
So, I'm guessing that since the adapter is regulated, the PCB is pulling the power from the adapter, and some of it is trickling into the battery, and that's how it's not acheiving it's full potential.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but I don't think the battery is even reaching a QUARTER of it's full capability when charging, due to the PCB taking power and not the battery.
That's why, as mentioned earlier, try charging the battery direct and not in the car.
Chuckster...