The Layman's Dual Cell Mod (tm)

[L3V3L1]

Butler i just ordered a bunch.
email me at L3V3L1@aol.com

[bdebde]

Originally posted by chelboed
Should I use 3AA's for a longer time, or since they're smaller cells, do they just not perform as well?

I did the mod too. I also noticed they don't perform quite as well as using standard cells. I think the small cells just can't put out the high current rates required by the cars.

[chelboed]

Do you like the mini's? Would you rather go to the normal size cells? I need your opinion before I cut the back window out of another car. I LOVE the potentiometer!

Have any of you guys ever used a Microsizer? Are they slower than Char-g's. My clone pcb's put out tons more torque and hp than the Hobbico's. How are the Char-g's compared?

[chelboed]

I read a thread from aus micro from PRABBIT that said that the newer generation Char-g has a bit more torque off-the-line than the older generation.

[actofgod]

Regarding the output of the button cells:

I mentioned in a previous post that calculating a charge rate depends on the capacity of the battery; i.e. the smaller the battery, the lower the recommended charge rate since it is based on a percentage of the capacity.

This is definitely true for the output current of the cell also; these tiny button cells can't put out as much as the 150mAh NIMH's. To some degree, this is offset by their lighter weight (which is also a benefit in cornering since there is less momentum to overcome), but your results will vary as to which is faster. I've had better results with a cannonball clone motor (slightly larger than stock) than with an official bit motor of roughly the same RPM. Some motors are more efficient with the current they receive than others.

Putting these batteries against 1/3aaa's is unfair; they certainly lose in capacity and probably current too. If you're just comparing the numbers, there would be no reason not to do a traditional dual/tri cell mod instead of this one. However, as you can tell from the name, the point of this mod is not to squeeze out every bit of performance but to make it *easy* to experience the speed benefit of having more voltage. A traditional mod will require some pretty extensive cutting and soldering; this one is pretty much plug-and-play with no chassis or body modifying needed, and can be reversed back to the stock battery very easily. And again, there's the issue of weight; by the time you have three 1/3aaa's in such a small vehicle, it becomes a big issue, affecting acceleration, cornering, and stability (lots of flips).

In my opinion, the strengths outweigh the weaknesses; you'll have to decide for yourself. Happy modding.

[MadMicroDoc]

If dual isnt good enough why not tri cell it ? Its about just as easy,but with more kick . Is a Laymans tri faster than a regular dual cell ?

[chelboed]

I experimented with tri-cell and quad-cell. I was dissapointed. I varied my charging methods to see if I could get any better results. My conclusion is this. Microsizers piss me off. The one I have has a very doggy PCB. I took the exact same car, and put a clone PCB in it. My results were this- Clone PCB with 2 cells literally smokes the dookie outta my microsizer PCB with the Layman 4-cell modification. I'm not sure if I have an older version, but it definately puts out less voltage.

[chelboed]

Oh, yeah...

I agree with actofgod. The Layman mod is faster than a single cell, and weighs less. Great for table racing. I have gotten so used to ramping my trucks, that I forgot what single cells were like.

Does anyone know if older microsizer and char-g's are slower than new ones. I would like to dual cell a booster, but I think I would not be satisfied. The booster (from what I hear) is actually a retarder in that the car does not function at full potential until the boost button is pressed. This being the case, I would have a dual cell car with a granny gear (minus the granny power).

Any thoughts?

Different thread?

[actofgod]

It has been measured and confirmed that Microsizer/ Bit Char-G boards provide more current to the motor than Zip Zap boards, but you may be right about some of the clones putting out even more current than the name brands. If you have the equipment, perhaps you could measure it and see for certain. What type of clone are you comparing it to?

About the booster: the pics in this post are of my Fairlady 350Z which is a booster chassis. You're right.. the boost function doesn't really make the car go faster but only gives it two speeds. With the button pressed, it travels at full 1x speed, and without the button pressed it travels at about 1/2x speed. Some claim that the booster goes faster at full speed than a non-booster car, but if that's the case it seems to be only slightly different.

But look at it this way: if you can double the top speed of your booster car by adding more cells, you would essentially have 2x and 1x speeds instead of 1x and 1/2x. It makes for an all-around car that can hold its own in terms of top speed but can slow down to take some corners.

That's the setup I have right now; between having a few different motors of varying torque and speed, being able to change between 1/2/3 cells in seconds, being able to fine-tune speeds with the potentiometer mod, and having both fast and slow speeds on the booster chassis, I have about all the control and options I need (at least until the proportional throttle/ steering emulator gets finished).

[chelboed]

Yeah, but I'm dissapointed in the pcb, because my clone pcb with 2 cells runs like a microsizer pcb with 3 cells. I don't want to put 3 cells in my Fairlady that's on order, but I think if I may be dissapointed with the fairlady with just two cells.

Boo Hoo, man...

[chelboed]

All of you guys with trouble charging the multicell cars, check this out...

I bought a project box from the "shack" and put this 2 way switch in it. I bought a four AA and two AA holder battery pack and wired them to a charging dock. You can switch between 4 and 6 AA's to charge your 2,3,or 4 cell cars.

[chelboed]

..

Actofgod's got the right idea. For track racing purposes, the booster bits are the way to go. I used my 350z with an rspec using the stock battery and had a hard time keeping it from spinning out. I swapped out the gear for the red zipzap gears and it was perfect. No spinning out off the line. The non turbo speed could be a lil faster but with turbo, the bit flies. And the nonturbo helps out enormously in the turns to slow down. I just got my batteries in from allelectronics, so tomorrow I'll give that a go if it works for my other bit.

Actofgod... What charger do u use? Is it a peak charger or a custom?

[chelboed]

I just did the 3 cell layman mod to my Microsizer Toyota dB. I removed 3 normal cells which all fit under the stock body. I'm not too unhappy with the mod. It has less power and runs for a shorter time, but It does have a better center of gravity for turning purposes (and I was able to do a chop job and lower the body a bit). I had to put the blue gears (power) to get any kind of decent acceleration. I noticed that after a short time on a charge, when I turn, it drags the motor down a bit. Actually this is kinda good because it barely slows down in a turn. Just enough to not flip over, anyway. The only bummer is when you begin from a dead stop while turning, it is slower. Not so on a full charge, but it doesn't take long.

OK. I LOVE this idea. The problemis that have no soldering iron(or seen one), dremel(or seen one), or any wiring experience. The only mods ive done are untying the knot and using foil and tape (to stand side-to-side to my ) to put a maybe 3ft antenna i found in my bathroom. Basically you are dealing with a 100% Grade-A idiot when i comes to this stuff. Can someone PLEASE tell me an easy, cheap way to make a charger?PPPPLLLLEEEAAAASSSEEEE!!!