QFM is a poster I have seen about and/or a dealer of parts and mods (mind is fuzzy... 2:30am)
Lxx is short for Lxx char-G "the best of the knock-offs" according to most opinions I have heard...
Finished the mod tonight and have learned ALOT... hehe... (all details below pertain ONLY to my knowledge of performing the controller antennae replacement once on an Lxx brand 45Mhz controller). I'll try to put as much detail here as I can manage before catching some Zzzzz's.
1.) What to be aware of going into this project:
- The controllers seemed to have been designed to explode on opening by some sadistic "engineer" in China... The having been said it is an amazingly simple (although frustrating) procedure.
- most of my frustration spawned from actually removing the PCB (Printed circuit board) from the "top-side" of the controller once it was opened.
- I had to remove the PCB due to a wire breaking from the solder on the top-side.
- most of the wires within are very short AND delicate... I solved this by replacing both battery leads and the antennae lead with 24gauge insulated solid-core wire (the stock wires seemed to be about 64gauge twisted-core)
- Make certain to wait for the solder to set... few things set off such a solid string of profanities then FINALLY getting the solder
just right and then letting go of the wire too soon and having to do it all over again.
2.) The antennae... learned alot here in retrospect:
- Damn BestBuy for not having any digital cameras in stock today... this would be SO much easier to describe with pictures...
- Think hard about how you will fasten the telescoping antennae securely to the case. I thought I had it all figured out until I had the case open and realized I didn't have the foggiest idea.
- I ended up taking the TA (telescoping antennae) into the case and using the screw-hole that it was originally attached to the phone base that it came from and threading one of the internal antennae clips through that with the other prong wrapped around the TA.
- I then used a liberal amount of elmers glue (didn't want to use epoxy or such and make the mod TOO permanent...) inside the case around the TA (this is not a solution either as I have already broken the elmers seal when testing the stability of its hold on the TA *shrug*)
- most important in the securing of the TA to the case is a snug fit of the actual case shell around the antennae AND a solid hold inside from the antennae prongs there...
3.) Re-assembly of the Controller case:
- after getting over my solder jitters (haven't soldered in years and was never a "pro" by any standards) and securing the antennae the hardest part was actually REassembling the controller case.
- If you do not have a wire break and have no need to unfasten the PCB from the "top" of the case then DO NOT unscrew the PCB... it was a nightmare to reassemble due to the plastic toggle pieces coming out of place
- Now IF you do have to remove the controller PCB (or simply want to for the experience) then learn this piece from this post if nothing else: slide the car-charging dock free from BOTH sides of the case shell... I did not due this until after several frustrating minutes. What can I say... it was late
On to the controller mod results now:
I am SOOO happy that I did this mod (and I will do it again on my 4 channel booster control (when I actually order one that is))!
Range is MUCH increased... so much so in fact, that I have performed the "no visible antennae on the car" mod as well and still have at least 20ft of clear range (can't test further tonight without risking waking up my wife
)
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If ya want to know more or have suggestions because I have done this completely back-asswards, then by all means ask and tell... too tired to believe even 3/4 of the above makes any sense... :P
- Calsonic
Linear Mode
