Tunning parts

[Profoxcg]

So I never really got into tunning my dnano when I first bought it months ago. I was more into my mini-z so I sold with out really learning much about it.

I just ordered an F40 as I menitoned a few days ago and while it arrived i have been doing some research.

so I have a few questions, what kind of tunning can be done?
I have some springs and bearings, and I understand the diff is ajustable ?
What about ride height and camber in the front?

What is the difference between the camber kunckles A and B ?
When you buy a fitting kit for a new body, you get an H plate which I am asuming the a plastic version on the 3 soft/med/hard plates. Meaning every dnanos h-plate is the same size.

What do the suspsions spaces do?
What do the steering knuckles do?
Can you change toe like in a mini-z?
Do the alum front plates do anything other than "bling" / strength?

I know these alot of questions. Maybe a sticky can be made of the responses?

Thanks !

[Profoxcg]

no one knows? or am I asking stupid questions ?

[MrNanoTrax]

Originally Posted by Profoxcg

so I have a few questions, what kind of tunning can be done?I have some springs and bearings, and I understand the diff is ajustable ? What about ride height and camber in the front?

depends on what u mean... but yes, there is an adjustable ball diff available (Kyosho and Atomic). the dnano is not like other R/C models since ride height is based on the model you've got in hand. camber adjustment is not possible in the current dnano chassis. i've done a few youtube vids that might help with your inquiries as well.

Originally Posted by Profoxcg

What is the difference between the camber kunckles A and B ?

if u check the optional parts document on their support page, you'll find the differences laid out in extreme detail.

Originally Posted by Profoxcg

When you buy a fitting kit for a new body, you get an H plate which I am asuming the a plastic version on the 3 soft/med/hard plates. Meaning every dnanos h-plate is the same size.

yes, all rear suspension plates are the same size but its the body mounts + motor case that vary from 1 model to another.

Originally Posted by Profoxcg

What do the suspsions spaces do?
What do the steering knuckles do?
Can you change toe like in a mini-z?

toe-in is also not adjustable in the current version, the only real comparison one can make with mini-z is varying motor position in the chassis. you should probably move out of "mini-z mode" when thinking of dnano. they're similar but if you're looking for a tiny mini-z, you'll probably be disappointed.

Originally Posted by Profoxcg

Do the alum front plates do anything other than "bling" / strength?

weight & overall stability... every extra ounce makes a difference in the car. enjoy your dnano

[Profoxcg]

Thank you for the response !

I was not able to find out what the different camber plates do, but I am presuming they have something to do with the front track width.

It be interesting to create some cambered knuckles

[Marcro]

It's also been said that the aluminum plates provide more precision steering than the plastic counterparts.

[fraz]

Originally Posted by NanoTrax

toe-in is also not adjustable in the current version, the only real comparison one can make with mini-z is varying motor position in the chassis. you should probably move out of "mini-z mode" when thinking of dnano. they're similar but if you're looking for a tiny mini-z, you'll probably be disappointed.

For the most part I agree with what you are saying exactly... but disappointed? Our feeling here is that dNanos are what Mini-Z should have been and they are superior. I mean right out of the box show me a Z that even comes a fraction close of what these puppies can do. Viva dNano!!

Originally Posted by Profoxcg

so I have a few questions, what kind of tunning can be done? I have some springs and bearings, and I understand the diff is ajustable ?
What about ride height and camber in the front?

Bearings are the only "must have" hopup for me. I played with the front springs and they are not super dramatic change. The biggie adjustments on these cars are body (cause it dictates wheelbase, weight, motor mount, and track width), tires are HUGE, and ball diff setting and grease thickness/consistency.

No ride height though we have played with the .5/1mm shims in front; don't

No camber at the moment thought you _could_ mismatch and upper/lower plate set and carefully align bore with the right drill bit. Not worth it and not necessary IMO.

You technically could change toe with a different toe bar from a different chassis. Again, not sure how much it would help/hurt.

Originally Posted by Profoxcg

What is the difference between the camber kunckles A and B ?

One set is like a drop spindle and those odd ones (B?) are really only designed for 1-2 chassis and I think for clearance issues more than tuning.

Originally Posted by Profoxcg

When you buy a fitting kit for a new body, you get an H plate which I am asuming the a plastic version on the 3 soft/med/hard plates. Meaning every dnanos h-plate is the same size.

Yep all same dimension on h-plates. The available ones and usable ones I list below:

--stock plastic (great)
--Kyosho carbon S, M, H (garbage, too stiff)
--Atomic fiberglass 1, 2, 3, 4 (very nice!)

Now what a lot of folks do is use the stock plastic h-plate and put a small square (~1cm) of adhesive teflon PTFE tape on bottom of it. It mellows the resonation and reduces chatter. I do like the Atomic ones for the same reason.

Originally Posted by Profoxcg

Do the alum front plates do anything other than "bling" / strength?

Pure bling and strength. The plastic ones are actually smoother action. If you put on the aluminum ones and stick with them, they will eventually polish the holes with the case hardened pins on the knuckles. So if you decide to commit to aluminum and a given body setup you like, go for it.

The rear aluminum hubs I highly recommend though. They run truer and clamp tighter. Also they are machined properly whereas some of the plastic ones are wrong (long story).

[Profoxcg]

All we really need if some atomic of PN to reselease cambered knucles and optional motor mounts if needed.

I mean, the car is very very new to the states. I am not dissapointed at all, I just want to know what can be done and can not be done !

[Pierro]

Hello!

About the front aluminium plates... They're definitely not only a bling option.
On my murceilago, the front body clip was not level (I should have dremeled it to get it right) so the body wasn't fitting right on the chassis.
Not a big issue, the difference was about 0.5 to 1mm. But for me, I really don't like the looks of the car with this.

I went to aluminium plates and now, my body is completely level. So, for me, the aluminium plates are much precise and finished than the plastic ones.

[Profoxcg]

well i plan on upgrading the rear hubs. The plactic ones seem very fragile and easily bend. I had a small accident where and one of the rear wheels was slightly bend out of center. I have to pull and push it into "trueness" I attributed this to the softness of the plastic being such a small part.

For those of you "racing" Nanotrax people, what if any if the part that get damaged the most from accidents. Any of the front end geometry such as the front plates of steering knuckles? ... spare part in the box are your friends !

[nitrojunkie]

I've got the green Murcielago with bearings and the Kyosho ball diff.I have run over 1000 laps and hit a wall or divider on most laps. I have yet to break anything. I did change the stock supplied front tires to the replacement 50's.There is a difference in the quality of the two for some reason.I now have atomic 35's on the front and they make a huge difference on the HT carpet track.I have also noticed that my body does not sit level from side to side,I need to do some measuring to see if it is in the body or some place else.I am using a piece of foam to stiffen up the rear at the moment but will most likely add an atomic dampner in the near future.I have actually been considering trying todesign a dampening system that would eliminate the need to put a hole in the body and still be adjustable.I have to sit down and see what I can come up with.I do want the aluminum hubs but the car out of the box is pretty robust that is why I believe with the proper marketing down the road these cars will be a big hit and provide longterm affordable racing to alot of people.

[MrNanoTrax]

Originally Posted by Profoxcg

For those of you "racing" Nanotrax people, what if any if the part that get damaged the most from accidents. Any of the front end geometry such as the front plates of steering knuckles? ... spare part in the box are your friends !

nothing gets damaged on our track outside of bodies (i've custom built my track using 100% foam rubber & widely separated nails; plenty of room for bounce). dnano bodies especially the light fixtures are EXTREMELY fragile. if you plan to race, don't plan to keep your body looking pretty. the stock h-plate is brittle and will eventually break so if you like to use it, keep a backup. i'll go with fraz and say the atomic "t-plates" are the best option for that part.

btw, i didn't mean "disappointed" as in dnano isn't the greatest thing that ever happened to mini-r/c. on the contrary, i believe it is... take a look at my site(s) and you'll see my career is now based on it... i think that tells it all. i'm just saying, i prefer to think of dnano -while similar to mini-z in some ways- to be in a class of its own. it really isn't a car built for mods (like so many cats love to do with r/c) as kyosho has put so much time, research & effort into making each car individual and as much like the real car as possible. feel free to play, that's what toys are all about but... as fraz indicated, many mods that work with the Z are not applicable to the dNaNo.

*wheeew* got that all out

[MrNanoTrax]

Originally Posted by nitrojunkie

I've got the green Murcielago with bearings and the Kyosho ball diff.I have run over 1000 laps and hit a wall or divider on most laps. I have yet to break anything.

the LP640's body is like a tank (after the mirrors have fallen off... and they WILL fall off). aluminum wheel hubs & ball diff are a must imo, don't even waste time with the stock. check my youtube breakdowns for my reasoning on hop-ups. next up: springs & plates

[Marcro]

I would love to see colored chassis and aluminum motor mounts for these cars. That would really look trick at this scale.

[Marcro]

PN just posted pictures of their carbon T-plates for the Dnano. Look's like it comes in a set of three.

Photo curtisy of PN's web site.