Dual Cell (sorry..I searched I promise)

[bnwhtlw]

Makes MUCHLY more sense. Im glad that you guys still hang out on this board. As you can see, Ive been bitten by the bug here. But I dont have a ton of electronics knowledge.

The bats I got yesterday were smaller in size and 160mha. My guess is that they may have been more than 1.2v. Even when I put just one in, thats when the OG controller smoked a little. I can only speculate as I dont have them with me. I do remember now that the OGZZ bat or (10aaahr) is 100mha.

Now I pose this question, 2 SE Batts run parrallel does that equate to 140mha at 2.v? If that site answer it I wouldnt know cuz I aint been to it yet.

[Azimov]

Now I pose this question, 2 SE Batts run parrallel does that equate to 140mha at 2.v?

Yup. Well, 2.4 to pick nits.

[Namuna]

Here's my suggestion;

If possible go with the setup Azimov showed...With splitting an SE pack and shoving it into an OGZZ. You'll double the voltage (vs. stock) and even though you have less capacity (only 70maH vs. the stock 100maH, or whatever the stock capacity is) you'll still have decent runtime if you charge it a couple/few times in a row.

I'm not sure what Az is offering for hookup with the batts, but I've got the following...

1/4aaa (1.2v @ 110maH) = $2 each
1/3aaa (1.2v @ 160maH, tabbed*) = $3 each
Then add the shipping cost, I do USPS First Class (real cheap for batts) or Priority Mail if you want it lickety-split.

Here's some pictures of the batteries:






Battery on left is stock ZZSE, the one on the right is 2 of my 1/4AAA sized batteries.

* Tabbed means it's got the metal tabs on there, ready to be setup for dual/multi-cell.

[bnwhtlw]

Im fairly certain the first one on the left is the ones I got from Batteries plus. I wonder if I hooked it up backwords or something. Could that cause something to get fried / the smoking and what not? The care and TX both functioned just fine afterwords...my guess is that if I had left it any longer it would be ruined. But that bat works correct?

Now let me ask you this...

Should it go as Az pictured. positive terminal to the negative of the series battery? So the + of the batt hooks up to the - of the board?

[Azimov]

Should it go as Az pictured. positive terminal to the negative of the series battery? So the + of the batt hooks up to the - of the board?

No, I just stuck the batteries in there to show how they fit in the chassis. The tab you see that hooks the two batteries together in the SE battery is already there. You will want to hook the pos terminal of the untabbed end of battery to pos on the board and negative to neg.
A wire soldered to each untabbed terminal of the SE battery could then be soldered to it's corresponding battery terminal in the chassis.

[bnwhtlw]

I went by the how to on some bit site. It said to reverse the batteries connection. I have no idea what happened and why it wanted to go poof last night. But it most assuredly wanted to go poof.

Oh well Ill just wait for teh SE bats and probably run then

Ill have to wait till I get home from work.

Next step will be running in series parrallel

[bnwhtlw]

So would this be how one would wire up Series Parallel ?

Green Is the Board. Blue is insulation of some sort.

Question is, how would you set up charging. Could you do it off the stock terminals? If one were to get them to work somehow?

[Azimov]

Yes, that's basically it.
Just solder the connections to the existing battery terminals rather than directly to the board. Then you can use the stock charging terminals as they are part of the battery terminals.
You would still need to make a custom charger in order to get a good charge. Maybe double or triple charging on an OZip charging pad wired onto an SE TX as I mentioned before.

[bnwhtlw]

I have the motor works charger. That thing runs off 4 AA's would that work you think?

[Azimov]

Here;s another option. You don't have to cut the SE batteries to get them in there. You will need to trim the two humps that presently hold the stock battery connections from the inside of the chassis. You can do this and leave the charging terminal part of those metal pieces in place. Glue two strips of metal accross the inside of the chassis (the grey strips in the pic) and solder wires from there to the existing charging terminals that you left in the bottom of the chassis. The pic is for referance. I didn't actually check which side of the chassis is pos. and which is neg.
Presto. You got the same arrangement with no soldering to the batteries and the batteries can be replaced.
EDIT: Now that I think of it, it may be more accurate to tell you to solder the batteries up as they are in the stock configuration. I just don't remember if they go directly to the charging terminals or if one of them routes through the PCB. But I think you see what I mean.

[bnwhtlw]

I was just sitting here theorizing that exact same set up.

Minus the metal sides..thats a nice idea.

I just wanna know why my stuff wanted to fry. The batteries I got are those exact same ones that Nanuma posted The 160mha ones.

Any ideas? It even wanted to smoke when I just popped the single battery in there. On the ZZ Chasis that my 911 was under. Which if Im not mistaken, is one of the first generations?

I dont want to kill my OGZZ as its the only one I have...and they are EXPENSIVE on evilbay

[Azimov]

One of those long pieces of metal running along the inside of those cheap flashlights might work well. Easy to cut and solder to. You might want to bend the metal contacts, or put a blob of solder on it in the right places in order to get past the thickness of the battery shrinkwrap thickness and get a good connection.

[Azimov]

I just wanna know why my stuff wanted to fry.

I'd say you put the battery in backwards. I can't think of any other reason for it.

[bnwhtlw]

Got it working...JESUS what a difference. Its actually fun to drive now. Red Motor with Blue Gears.

You can see how I did it. Set up the tabs and the set the battery similar to Az's first image post.
Everything is wedged in together with cut up shrink tubing.



This was the first pic, its cleaner now. Had to flip the PCB and remove the lights from the Toyota Levin I have.

Also put a 6t pinion gear (off a motorworks pops right on, no moding needed) on both the 911 and the Vanquish (green gears). Wow, fast and a little more controllable boost with the Purple motor (red gears). I have a bit racer 3.0 motor coming. Thats going in the levin.

The fleet...

Thanx for the help guys. Az if you want me to return your batteries I will. Up to you.
Bought the hulk truck tonight thats gonna be articulated .

[Azimov]

Az if you want me to return your batteries I will.

Huh? I haven't sent em out yet. Are you saying you don't need them anymore? I guess it's a good thing I'm a pitful procrastinator. NP, looks like you solved your problem with higher capacity (I think) cells to boot.