machining new suspension for xmod

mecheng.wannabe · #1 12-26-2005, 11:14 PM

Hi All
I am a 36 year old disabled gulfwar veteran I have owned an xmod with stage 2 motor, bearings, and suspension for 1 1/2 years. I think the upgrade kits from Radio Shack are a waste of money I have an emco milling machine and am trying to build a Dave Gingery lathe I am interested in building a new suspension
For My xmod maybe double wishbone or pivot ball I am looking for someone with simmilar interests in mid michigan area to assist in this project I am impressed with my stock xmods speed the handling caht keep up though

mecheng.wannabe · #2 12-28-2005, 12:18 AM

I attempted making the lower arms today. I wish I new more about machining I didnt pay any attention to the dials when I was
cutting the part, just eyeballing were the endmill was it came out a little rough I will pay attention to dials next time. I dont have a lathe and was wondering If the axles for the xmod evo fit in the old xmods front hub and bearings and how long the dog bones and axles are? Has anyone attempted to Build a real suspension (one with more than an 1/8" travel ) for there xmod before

mecheng.wannabe · #3 12-28-2005, 05:20 PM

I am putting this project on hold till I get my mill cnced or learn something about machining unless someone wants to come over and use my mill to build it . I need a lathe anyway to make dogbones and axels as the evos axels are bigger. I still think this is a good project especially if you had cnc because it doesnt look like they fixed the front suspension on the evo version.

Jared

Tbird Man · #4 12-29-2005, 01:39 PM

You should wait till GPM comes out with their parts in the US and see if you can use some of that stuff instead of makeing it on your own. that said, a little machineing advice, get a good set of calipers and carefully mesure the stock dimentions and draw out a simple blueprint (I use a 2x scale up when i do something this small, meaning 1in=2 in or .25in=.5in) this will help when cutting the part as you will know exactly how deep to cut to within about .01 with a general use caliper. also most machineists agree that the very most improtant factor in a good cut is how you set up the part, the cutting is the easy part.

mecheng.wannabe · #5 12-29-2005, 10:21 PM

Tbird Man

I would buy the parts as you suggest but Gpm Makes the x-mod
parts just like the original except out of aluminum. I said in my first post I wanted to build a new design to correct the xmods small suspension travel up front and fix the wacked camber problem in the back. I said double wish bone earlier but I think a lower arm with an adjustable ball link on top is what I want. I know what you mean about aligning the work on the table earlier today I lined up a part with a dial test indicator I didnt do that on my first attempt.its kind of slow going as I have limited tooling and dont have a vice to clamp my work in That means I have to line every part up with my dial test Ind. I am just using tbolts to hold down I dont have any books on machining and home ownership has me strapped for cash so I am basicaly just making do right now. I was thinking of looking at some copier repair places for some free steppers I dont need monster steppers cause this mill is only light duty on the column, it has a real nice quality xy table though. Iam going to give it another go this weekend thanks for the tip on drawing up a blueprint It would be good to put on paper even though I can visualize stuff in my head pretty good . do you know how accurate I should worry about getting my work lined up. I should wait and get a vice so I could just line the vice up and be done with it .

Tbird Man · #6 12-31-2005, 10:59 AM

as far as accuracy goes, it depends, i suppose for what you're doing about .1 might be acceptable, though .01 would ensure a good fit overall. i hear ya on the tooling issues, you sometimes just have to make do, i wish ya luck on this project, i plan to do something similer to my EVO truck to correct some issues and increase the pitifil travel.