Carbon Fiber, Trc/zero-p Chassis Pics - Page 20

FrEaK_aCcIdENT · #**286** 05-18-2005, 05:46 PM

i just got mine in the mail today, that was some crazy fast shipping!!! I have a question for you. if i get a silver sheet of carbon can i send it to you to have it machined? and if yes, how much would u charge just to have it machined to ur chassis' specs? thanx! also i would need a new bag of hardware with it. so if u are willing to do this for me please quote me for the machining process and 1 complete hardware kit. thanx!!!

1 more thing lol... if u are willing to do this, i need to know what size sheet u need. i was thinking 6" x 6", but i dont know how much waste ur process has. please let me know if u are willing to do this. here is the silver i plan to use, and its kinda pricy. im hoping that ur fee for machining and hardware would be somewhere around the cost of what u would charge for the regular c/f since its just cutting it. no extra material cost seeing as how im providing the material. please say u will do this lol!! i need custom (1 of a kind) lol

chicken · #**287** 05-18-2005, 08:14 PM

yay! mine just came in today after ordering it on sunday.but what sucks is that there wasnt really any upper decks on sale ...just a mistake to put it back on the shop.anyways crazy fast shipping.man this thing is soo kool.i cant wait to get it together sometime.im soo busy right now with school though. i have a few questions too...
i plan on making my own upperdeck for the pro-stock chassis using plastic or lexan so i can mount some elctronics on it.what thickness of plastic/lexan would you recomend for me to make this?preferably somewhere like towerhobbies where i can also purchase other things so shipping wont be too much.standoffs and things will be no problem also but i just need a direction on what size of plastic or lexan i need.what would you recomend btw, plastic or lexan?
thanks
imChinOaChickeN

#**288** 05-19-2005, 09:29 PM

Go with ABS styrene usually available in the Plastruct display, .05" thick at a minimum..........this is what I used for the prototype.........electrical components fit well to batteries with good double sided tape.............we are working on a mod upgrade order........

No can do a custom run at this point in time......

FrEaK_aCcIdENT · #**289** 05-20-2005, 08:41 AM

ok no problem, when u have the ability let me know! just pm me in the future if u ever have the ability. I want ur design due to the fact that there is more research/advances in the design verses any other competitors. Truely top not work! i have purchased others in the past and i will come back for future business

#**290** 05-20-2005, 04:42 PM

Thanks! We always try to do it right with prototyping before we release. Very glad you can see the difference.

E-mail me so I'll have you on file.

FrEaK_aCcIdENT · #**291** 05-20-2005, 04:50 PM

whats ur email, it wont let me email u through the boards

edit: also found a flaw in ur system lol... well not a flaw persay, its a good thing actually!!!!! but it was ticking me off LOL

During the instilation process i noticed u are using stainless screws!! GOOD thing, but only sucks when u are depending on the magnetic tip of the screw driver to hold it till u can get in the hole to screw it in... LOL

#**292** 05-20-2005, 10:28 PM

zeropres@zero-products.com

Th link is active at www.zero-products.com

FrEaK_aCcIdENT · #**293** 05-20-2005, 10:30 PM

ok guys, i just got around to getting this thing together and here are my observations, suggestions, and praises...

observations:
the front upper carbon fiber plate took a little fiddling with to make it fit, but when it did drop into place it worked great!!!

the nylon screw and nut for the pcb that goes under the receiver... use ur fingers only to tighten! I used my fingers and still almost messed it up. if u use a screw driver u will most likely mess it up!

if u use gpm steering plate and also have the tight turns mod then u have to be careful with the added room the steering plate has to move around. if it moves too much and ur at full lock to the passanger side the arm for the servo might pop out of the steering plate. this is not a defect of this product. its actually a defect of gpm cutting the angle on the backside of its steering plates!!! p.s. the only way to use the gpm plate with the awd kit is to modify the plate. if u need to know how that is done let me know.

suggestions:
look at picture's green circles...

the green circle under the main board - I used one of my screwed up chassis' little stand-offs. there should be a set of plastic standoffs included in the kit. there is a material called Evergreen tubing that is at most bobby shops. here is a link for it.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...5&I=LXF741&P=K
NOTE: this is the 1/8" size. it is the wrong size! i got some from the hobby shop and it didnt work. thats why i ended up using the stock chassis' standoffs. didnt need that chassis anyway. My gues is that the correct size would be something like 5/32 or 3/16. something around that size.

the green circle over the heat shrink covered standoffs - there needs to be a set of stand-offs in the package that give u the option to completely fill that gap if u are using lithium ions. i used to use my stock battery box loops that i cut from the battery boxes, but the gap is twice as big as it was so i dont know what to use yet, but i will figure it out!

praises:
this thing is SWEET!!! overall everything goes together perfectly! no modification to the c/f what so ever! it works with the AWD! Im still at aw with the quality in this thing! if u need more hi res pics let me know i can take some great close ups of different connecting points!

Horshu · #**294** 05-20-2005, 11:16 PM

I shave all my GPM tie rods to get them to move past the differential (my camera is recharging, so I'll have to post a pic later, but basically, the two teeth-like pieces need to be thinned out for clearance). I still have the problem with the servo horn popping out of the tie rod, locking steering one way, though; shaving might actually make it a bit worse in this respect, but I keep my steering trimmed down a bit anyway.
On the standoff part, the ESC doesn't need to be elevated by teh standoff, but the front drive shaft holder does, or the bottom of it can be shaved down to allow the tie rod clearance. BTW: Do you notice the drive shaft holder on yours being slightly tilted forward? It's not enough on mine to cause any binding, but I did notice it nonetheless.

FrEaK_aCcIdENT · #**295** 05-21-2005, 06:42 AM

Here are some pics if u want them

ive had the on another board to help out with shaving thier parts.

here is the tierod after shaving for clearence on the AWD bevel gear. i put a stock gpm tirod behind it to show where i shaved it at.

here is the view of the clearence of the tie rod after AWD is put back together. this shows the clearence between the diff. and the tierod.

here is the clearence on the bevel gear and the driver side of the steering plate.

sorry for the off topicness seeing as this doesnt directly relate to the c/f chassis. but in a way it is subrelated

#**296** 05-21-2005, 09:57 AM

Very Nice pics!! How about some of the finished product?

The stock kit was made to fit the stock battery boxes......

The stock electronics will fit without the shim as long as the proper number of spacers are used in the rear motor pod attachment. The kit essentially lowers the ride height between .5+1mm. If you are using stacked FET's then you should trim the chassis to clear the FET's.

The X Plus kit is better suited to aftermarket electronics and all sorts of battery configurations. With the flat pan it is ready to hack to fit the batteries of your choice...............

FrEaK_aCcIdENT · #**297** 05-21-2005, 10:27 AM

give me a few minutes and ill edit this post with some good chassis shots

here ya go.

overall

bottom view

I didnt have any left over pieces so i assume it was right

but probably not knowing me lol... if u cant ell what i was talking about in that picture i was talking about the standoff. notice i used a washer then nut then washer for a spacer pack to make it all level. hope this helps zero-man

#**298** 05-21-2005, 04:49 PM

the 5/8 stand-off goes to the rear......That's why you have so much space between the rear deck and the stand-off

The front stand-offs are shorter to save weight. I made the rears higher to eliminate the play versus the shorter stand-offs.

Did you use the 2 spacers per motor pod screw? Looks a liitle high in the rear, unless that's the photo angle playing opticals on me.

Otherwise it is sssssssswwwwweeeeeeetttttttt, of course I'm biased.

FrEaK_aCcIdENT · #**299** 05-21-2005, 06:24 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Zero-Man
the 5/8 stand-off goes to the rear......That's why you have so much space between the rear deck and the stand-off

The front stand-offs are shorter to save weight. I made the rears higher to eliminate the play versus the shorter stand-offs.

Did you use the 2 spacers per motor pod screw? Looks a liitle high in the rear, unless that's the photo angle playing opticals on me.

Otherwise it is sssssssswwwwweeeeeeetttttttt, of course I'm biased.

its probably photo angle, but i just took a look at ur diagram angain, and it shows a 3/4 standoff and a 5/8 standoff. it does show the 5/8 standoff in the rear, thats what i have in the rear but if u will notice the size 5/8 is a shorter size than 3/4. the diagram shows 3/4 in the front. thats why i put it there. now using the spacer/nut/spacer combo on the front i achieved the stock height on the front upper c/f plate to mate up to the stock front gear boxes. i think ill go to Fry's electronics to see if they have standoffs in 3/4" to close the gap in the rear. or better yet, how much would u charge to send me 2 more 3/4" standoffs and 2 more of those clear washers. I measured it out and that wouls fill the gap perfectly!!!

oh yea and the screws show to go to the rear plate screw holes, not the motor pod holes. the motor pod a.k.a motor heatsink screws directely into the rear suspension plate. see pics

please let me know how much u want for 2 more 3/4" standoffs and the 2 washers. thats all i need.

edit: i just read over this again and realised that it sounded like i wasnt happy lol... Just to make sure u know this i am 110% satasfied with ur kit!!!!!!! like i said its far superior to others i have tried! thats why i want u to do my cutting on my custom plate! this thing went together smooth. just noticed a couple of things that i needed to do to suit my application.

FrEaK_aCcIdENT · #**300** 05-21-2005, 06:43 PM

ok this is what happened!!!!!!!

i got a ruler out and measured the standoffs!!!

the ones i stuck in the front are 5/8 so those do go to the rear, but the short ones i have in the rear that were provided with the kit are only 3/8" ill take a pik with it ion a ruler so u will believe me. i got the wrong standoffs. i need 2 3/4 standoffs sent to me to correct the problem! this explaines why i had to use the spacer idea i had for the front and why the rear is so far off. ill post the pic in a min. let me know when u will be able to send the right ones. all i need is the 2 3/4" standoffs.

notice. now if i had 3/4" in front i wouldnt need the spacers. and the ones that i have up there would fit perfectly in the rear! please send 3/4" standoffs that go for the kit and my issues will be solved! also you might need to update ur bag of hardware to correct the problem for future orders.