What are the dimensions of their track, how many turns how tight, and what kind of surface? I’ve built some real monsters that work great on larger tracks with wide curves, but it’s very hard do beat an intelligent MR02 set-up on a track with a lot of tight curves.
This MR-02 is nearly unbeatable on a smaller track, it is not overly flashy but precision and smooth controllable speed is what it’s all about, it can also be quickly and precisely dialed in to suit different driving styles and track conditions.
MR02 chassis in RM configuration, the MM configuration might handle slightly better but I drive better with the RM. This is the Smoke chassis with the gold plated battery connectors I doubt they actually add noticeable performance but the look helps me.
PN Racing Modified Motor Mount, lighter and more rigged than stock, easily adjustable allowing precise pinion/spur gear alignment.
EGR Atomic Z2 Motor, obviously your motor is important but too many people get blinded by power and hype. For the track control and an even power band are just as if not more important than power and speed and you definitely don’t want too much power for the track. The length of the race and your batteries will also have a lot to say about your motor choice. What good is a hot motor if you run out of juice before it’s over. The Z2 is an extremely smooth, efficient high performance motor that delivers just as much power and acceleration at the bottom of your trigger stroke as at the top. It’s not the fastest motor or most powerful motor out there but it just may be the best all-around racing motor that money can buy. It does however require a turbo.
GPM 16 ball adjustable differential, with titanium shaft. The 16 ball differential is smoother than the 8 ball and allows for more precise adjustments.
Suspension : Kyosho adjustable oil damper with carbon fiber T-plates in an assortment of thicknesses for the rear, and titanium king pins with a Kyosho spring set for the front. The suspension is adjusted by changing the front springs and the rear T-plate to suite the track and your driving style. I have no preference for the T-plates and adjustable oil damper but there is no substitute for the Kyosho spring sets.
Stock Kyosho plastic wheels for racing, the aluminum wheels look nice but are strictly for looks, they add weight and allow tire slip. However you do need to inspect the plastic wheels closely for defects and precise alignment with the bearings installed. Just like for a real race car your tires are one of the most important choices you can make you should have/try an assortment hard/soft more/less sloped. I don’t change tires to suite the track I glue the tires on and change wheel sets.
Precision ball bearings, you can get ABEC 5 and even ABEC 7 bearings for your Z, they are worth it as long as the car is strictly an indoor track racer. Use aluminum self locking wheel nuts, the smallest you can find.
This car has 2x3 FET stacks (Internal Turbo). For a 2x2 stack stick with the Vishay 4562’s however at 2x3 the IRF 7389’s slightly higher on-state resistance is less noticeable and their faster switching and greater power dissipation are strong points in their favor. Currently this car is using a hybrid stacks the forward P channel uses the 4562’s while the N channel uses the 7389’s, in reverse it is the other way around. So far I like the set up but only time and more testing will tell. Either way I recommend a 2x3 Internal Turbo but the installation needs to be done by someone with the appropriate skills and equipment to do the job correctly. There are too many hacks out there, one small jolt of static electricity can degrade a Mosfets performance by 30%. Ask them what they use to solder the FETs if the answer is “as soldering iron of course” then you might want to look for someone else. Also take a look at their finished product the solder on the pins should be clean, shiny, and even with no globs of solder and a thin layer of white heat sink compound between each FET.
Additionally if your going to do some serious racing there is no substitute for a good controller, and there is a reason that 99% of the world champions in any almost any RC car class over the last few years won with the Airtronics M8, and it has an AM module as well as a Mini-Z module they both work but the Mini-Z works better with a Kyosho Mini-Z (note for an Iwaver use the AM module). The Futaba 3PK is growing in popularity and it also has an AM module. A less expensive choice is the Futaba 2PL which also works quit well. If your have full size RC cars and a FM radio you prefer it is also possible to get a FM MR02 they are still quit rare in the States but are becoming easier to get.
Batteries: For practice standard 700 mAh cells are your best choice. But for a shorter race high current drain 600 mAh cells are available. Don't be misled by the mAh rating, nothing is free and higher mAh numbers are obtained by sacrificing current delivery and weight. There is also no substitute for a good digital peak charger, but it must have a range that will cover 4 aaa cells.
This this MR02 is sporting a 7.2 volt 600 mAh lithium-ion battery pack that is 10 grams lighter than standard aaa cells, there is a little trick to building it and you need a special charger, but it will pop right in a MR02 without any modifications whatsoever. A 10 gram weight advantage and 7.2 volts is a suprising competative edge especially in a stock car. Putting this pack in the above car is fun but only if you have a big enough track.
Note: The Iwaver 02 should be out shortly and they reportedly will have not only upgraded electronics but a better controller similar to the 2PL. I’d wait and see if they have any bugs that need worked out before getting one but the Iwavers have been showing steady improvement and if it continues they could eventually leave the Kyosho Mini-Z’s far behind in performance as well as price. Please note that I said if it continues since there is no guarantee that it will, we will just have to wait and see.
How this "toy" has evolved is beyond me..
Linear Mode
