
12-18-2003, 08:53 PM
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TinyRC Pro
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Join Date: Oct 2003
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How is the HPI stock motor neuro?
sherif
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12-18-2003, 09:48 PM
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0reZepyT
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Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Boston, MA
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any of those you listed work without any type of FET upgrade?
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12-18-2003, 10:19 PM
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Mad Scientist
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I'm running the Team Orion motor with 10 less turns on my car without the FET upgrade. It only draws slightly more current than a stock stage 2 (640mA vs. 580mA). I ran it all night last night, two sets of batteries, no issues.
The GPM motor only draws as much current as a stage 1 motor. It is VERY safe for the stock FETs. (240mA)
Out of that whole list, I don't think any are unsafe on the stock FETs. Not sure about the Tamtech motor, if you can actually find one. The best part is that none of those motors is more than $13.
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12-19-2003, 02:35 AM
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I was cleaning out my toiletries drawer earlier today and found a Colgate Actibrush (spelling?) and it has a 180 motor in it. Soo... I smashed it and am going to try it tomorrow when I wake up. Hopefully its decent but I'll report back... This could be the new SpinBrush!
This is the style I had:
sherif
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12-19-2003, 03:24 AM
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so I wired it up in reverse like the xmod motors are just for preliminary tests... This thing has sick torque just like the spinbrushs' do stock... but low low rpms... sooo I probably won't even bother trying to pop a pinion on here right away, I'll probably pull it apart & rewind it to 47 turns of 30 gauge. I'm betting this thing has high winds of a high # gauge wire. I'll post my findings tomorrow.
sherif
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12-19-2003, 07:41 AM
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Put less than 47 winds on it... start with about 35 or even less. Remember that one turn on a 180 motor is a much larger amount of wire than a turn on a 130 motor.
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12-19-2003, 12:08 PM
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Well just a small update... this thing is a pain to get apart... I haven't even opened it yet b/c it uses 4 small tabs to hold the top on and they're impossible to get loose. They're not as long as the 130 cans' so it's hard to a good grip on them. I'll probably just to go the hobby store today and pick one or two that fits my desires  maybe they'll have armatures but I'm doubtful.
Neuro, thanks for the reminder man, I can't believe I almost forgot that
sherif
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12-19-2003, 12:58 PM
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They are tough to open. I gave up on the tabs, filed them off, then soldered the endbell back on when I was done.
Parts for the 180 motors are even harder to find than the 130. That's a drawback.
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12-19-2003, 11:18 PM
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Here's a really cheap 180 motor. Good candidate for rewinding and experimentation.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXFNJ9&P=7
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12-20-2003, 09:54 AM
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0reZepyT
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Join Date: Feb 2003
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that endbell isn't removable so it would be kinda tough to experiment with it
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12-20-2003, 12:45 PM
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Well, the Team Orion had a supposedly non-removable endbell too...
All you do is file off the four little tabs with a small hobby file (Testors sells the perfect set for this), then bang the motor shaft on the work bench, and the endbell will pop right out (180s are closed on the end, unlike the 130 motors). When putting it back together, the tough thing is getting the endbell back in straight. Just make sure the motor stays rotating freely, and all will be well. Then just solder the endbell back on where the four tabs used to be, and you are sorted...
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Last edited by neurokinetik; 12-20-2003 at 12:48 PM.
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12-20-2003, 05:03 PM
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Umm.. Teal Rsx
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Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Maryland
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are ther any tutiorals on motor winding?
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12-21-2003, 12:32 AM
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Do a search on "winding" in the XMods forums here on TinyRC. It has been covered, I just don't have the thread(s) handy.
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12-23-2003, 12:40 PM
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0reZepyT
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Join Date: Feb 2003
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the colgate motion electric toothbrush has a ff-180 motor by mabuchi but i think the endbell is completely sealed, didn't look like there were tabs to file off. i saw it on the *other* forum, someone named guysmily took one apart.
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12-23-2003, 02:27 PM
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sLoWly gOInG iNsAnE
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Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Posts: 9
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Colgate Actibrush Rewind Project
Ok, just to let everyone know I have done a quick test on the Colgate Actibrush 180 motor. I purchased one and then quickly disassembled it to take out the motor. To my surprise it was a Mabuchi FF180PH/SH. This means that the material that the brushes are made from are not the same as what is found in something like the Stage 2 motors. After filing off the tabs and removing the endbell I got a good look at the brushes. They are only simple thin silver strips. This is concerning because they will be eaten away quickly after much use under higher voltages and higher speeds. Using this as a long-term motor is not a wise idea. At any rate it is still a good test motor. I removed the comm and set the timing for 10° advance in the appropriate direction (CW looking from the driveshaft end). I followed Neuro's winding instructions for a 180 motor and put only 35 turns of 30ga. wire on each pole. After reassembly I put 3V to the thing and it ran like a top. The no-load current draw was only 0.28A. The torque was not that impressive. I compared it to my Stage 2 -10T advanced timing motor (0.58A no-load current draw) and found that the Stage 2 felt like it had more torque. I still have not put either of these motors in my car yet so these are only my benchtop-testing reactions to these motors. I think I know one reason why the 180 motor felt different - the winding method. This variation does create the same electromagnetic events to happen in each pole as a 130 motor, yet the duration of these events are changed due to the length of time the brush is in contact with the comm at certain points in the cycle. I believe the only reason for the odd winding pattern is so that the company did not have to produce custom parts for the 180 motor. The winding method allows them to use similar components to the 130 and still have a functioning motor with the brushes oriented 90° from normal. To test this theory I am going to get another motor and set the comm in an orientation that matches a 130 (rotated 90° + advancement) and then wind each pole like a 130. This might keep the duration of the powerful portion of the cycle "ON" longer to create more torque. I will update everyone when I get a chance.
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