new chassis idea

3series takumi · #1 09-18-2003, 02:40 PM

well this isnt really too new. i plan on using the original chassis, but just cutting off the battery holders. this plan uses 2/3A cells, they are 1100mah and can carry 30amps with no drop. if you have any more ideas or know where to get 1/2A cells ( they would fit better) please let me know

3series takumi · #2 09-18-2003, 02:41 PM

one more pic

Tbird Man · #3 09-19-2003, 12:47 PM

Thats nice, what do you think of this design

edit: forgot to add, it is going to use a double deck carbonfiber design. the bottom layer is relived for the batts. the motor is a 130 size with a custom cnc milled endbell to use a brush setup similer to 1/10 scale motors. I plan to mill the plastic off the bottom of the chassis and just use the diff mounts and maybe one or two other things. I am going to build my own CNC mill soon for under 300 bucks. this is just a loosly drawn MS paint design as I do not have a cad program yet.

Tbird Man · #4 09-19-2003, 12:55 PM

I also do not have a mini x yet, so the diminitions are just what I could find on the net.

3series takumi · #5 09-19-2003, 02:12 PM

that is one sweet idea. i hate to ask this of you but when you get that cnc up an running, do you mind doin some work for me

for a small fee of course. i usually use my schools machine but it has been acting up lately and screwing up projects. on top of that more and more people (that dont know what they are doing) are starting to use it

anyways that is a great idea for the chassis. where are you planning on putting the electronics and what electronics do you plan on using. a novak spy would fit on the top deck, they are very slim. the teamorion flash would fit too.

your design is way smaller and lighter than mine, i am tryin to get different batteries in it at the moment, but yours will be a corner killer

i am goin with bigger amp batteries cause i want to run a high end rs4 micro motor and they require a higher amp rating than the AAA can deliver.

wow that was a mouth full

slugbugg · #6 09-20-2003, 09:04 PM

Tbird Man,
I'm interested in how you are going to make a mini mill for $300.00 I'd like to have another one setup just for digitizing.

I have a small fortune in my mill and it looks as if I will have to spend another small fortune for some decent software for it.
I have a taig mill with maxnc CL controller on it and it works excellent, it's 3 axis right now but it can do 4 axis.

The main problem I'm having with it is converting drawings to nc code correctly.

Tbird Man · #7 09-22-2003, 08:47 AM

wel i had orgionally thought to build it from scratch, but as i looked into it it looks like it will be more cost effective to by an existing one like the sherline 5100 and convert it, i am going to try to buld my own stepper drivers and use open source software. the biggest cost to building from scratch is the parts that need to be machined, also I had planned to use cheaper less accurate rolled ball screws, and RSR type linear berings, cheak out www.5bears.com for info on what you need to build your own mill. and when and IF I manage to get my mill up, I plan to do limited work to help pay for it.

Tbird Man · #8 09-22-2003, 08:49 AM

and yes, the electronics will be on the upper deck. the suspension will be made of alu. and i am concidering replaceing the dogbones with small CV type joints(may not be feasible).

tinyrc · #9 09-22-2003, 10:44 PM

Cool stuff guys! If you ever need a quantity of these made (or come up with a killer design you want us to resell!) just email us!

helldriver · #10 09-23-2003, 05:52 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by 3series takumi
well this isnt really too new. i plan on using the original chassis, but just cutting off the battery holders. this plan uses 2/3A cells, they are 1100mah and can carry 30amps with no drop. if you have any more ideas or know where to get 1/2A cells ( they would fit better) please let me know

As long as i know, the 1/2 A2 they're only have 300mAh. U can use the cordless telephone cells. It should be have a shorter run time, but with NiCad, you will have a better punch with these cells. Will be much better with your capacitor.
Still I dont get any 1/2 A2 size.
Why didn't you just put 3 x A2 on each side(with one on top of the other two)? They will fit good, but it's a bad low-gravity.
Good luck.

Tbird Man · #11 09-23-2003, 10:34 AM

Hey tinyrc, how about a tinyrc r/c car? would you guys have the equipment to build limited run cars? the only problem with marketing my chassis is I believe it requires extensive chassis modifying, but if I were to make the diff and suspension mounts out of alu and only use minix diffs and suspension, I could do it. perhaps a complete chassis upgrade, just mount your suspension and diffs? do you think there woud be much demand? the problem is the lack of availability of minix's in the states. one option would be a rolling chassis based loosly on the minix design, add miniz wheels a 180 motor and electronics? tell me what you think.

fastboy · #12 09-23-2003, 12:50 PM

guys,i myself have made a few mini x conversions(inc a 1/32 monster truck)as well as modified cf rocket racers but nothing still comes close to the dtm-x4 with an hpi mod in it and 880mah 8.4v li-poly cell.

if your making the conversion for the hell of it and just to please yourself that you made a great project work then fine..if however your trying to make a dtm x4 killer then your gonna have an almighty task on your hands believe me..good luck with whatever you do.

dave

3series takumi · #13 09-23-2003, 08:27 PM

:P i think my mod can make it. i just got a teamorion coreless that i will be running with. i also am getting these 'zapped' 2/3a cells they have over a 1050mAh rating and plenty of punch. for me now i am trying to figure out the best gearing. that coreless boasts 2-3x more torque then a normal mod motor. i think the independant suspension will also aid in makin this toy a formidable beast. though 8.4volts will be hard to beat. i will at best be able to put out 7.2v. i have been lookin at those lith-poly for power but they still have that overly huge risk of making fires, big fires.

but anyways i am actually trying to make the best 1/24th car...

wish me luck

Tbird Man · #14 09-23-2003, 11:12 PM

well if all goes acording to plan, i should be able to at least out corner the DTM. I plan to make it capeable of running a 180sh motor. and with some modifying i should be able to run a "mini 540" (cant remember the number but orion makes some thea look just like a mini 540 raceing motor) also plans have changed a bit, I am gonna end up spending a little more than I thought on the mill, and will likely be manual only at first. its better for prototypeing anyway. my hope is to have my own machine shop setup by christmas (money is gonna have to go to gettin my MG midget running till than) but I will try to keep you guys informed of any changes.

fastboy · #15 09-24-2003, 04:15 AM

hmm i think you will struggle to outcorner the dtm since its basically a scaled down 1/12th pan car with foams on it..on tarmac i can can actually get mine up on 2 wheels cornering,its nigh on impossible to get the car out of shape its that good(even at 40+mph!)

i have tried the coreless and the 45turn hpi and for me the hpi is faster,but the coreless gives better runtimes.

if you can i would try to get a hold of a dtm and have go on clean tarmac,if your racing on somewhere where the surface is say a little loose and bumpy then i can where the mini-x with suspension will come in handy,i love my mini-x's but i have to give it to the dtm-x4 for sheer speed and handling.

good luck
dave