For the gen1 all you have to do is take the back cover off the diff, then either put super glue, or sticky tack (or anything you can think off) on the three cone gears and then put the cover back on. I find the sticky tack the best, cause you can take it out if you need to.
And if you don't know what the sticky tack is, it's the stuff you use to stick posters on walls. I hope it helps.
wow, i'm getting alot of ideas for my tutroial page i'm makin. Posi traction on the evo is easy to do. All u need is Either a hotglue gun or "Quick steel", a lil alcohol (Rubbing not the drink), a razorblade (Not nessary but might be), Hammer & a nail
Step 1: Remove the differential
Step 2: Seperate the differential, on one side u'll see the connector pin inside the cup, i used a small finishing nail. Place the nail on the connector pin and tap lightly on it. I also found that drilling a hole a lil bigger the differential shaft in a 2x4 makes removal alot easier.
Step 3: Once seperated, u'll c 3 chinsy gears, remove those and clean the dif in the alcohol. Alcohol will help break down the grease.
Step 4: With the connector pin still in the bell houseing and one side still connected, Take the hotglue gun (or a small ammount of Quick steel and start kneeding it together. This stuff is nasty to work with, but it's name describes the final product) and fill the differential. while the glue is still hot, put the differential back together (if some glue or QS squishes out, that's ok) Take the nail and tap the connector pin back into the the other side.
Step 5: Make sure that both sides are all the way in. If u have glue or QS on the outside, QS takes about 10 mins to set, so u can clean off any excess. If u used hotglue, take the razorblade and slice off your finger, no, wait, the glue, slice off any glue that came out.
Step 6: if u used QS, u'll have a little longer wait, but, check and make sure the dif is locked by twisting the ends. If all went right, it'll be solid. if not, clean out the glue and goto Step 2.
Step 7: Install the Dif back in, and ur good to go.
Some are wondering can't i use superglue? The answer is not really. The gears they used in the dif are weak, and like to break. The 2 ends don't come in contact with the bellhousing (well maybe a little bit in the center) so you won't get a good bond. As soon as i get my Tut's up, i'll post a link to em.
I used gorrilla glue on my EVO and it worked fine......cept the metal dog bones chewed up the ends of it.........but now I have a complete billet rear end and no problems whatsoever
Location: Toronto, Ontario in an igloo to all those americans lol
Posts: 189
could you show me a pic of the pin that your talking about im trying to get the metal rod that goes from one side of the diff to the other
edit** okay i locked the diff by putting hot glue on both ends of the big gear thing now i have 2 problems
a) when im racing my wheels will suddenly turn (usually to the right) sending my xmod out of control. (it goes straight until i hit a rock but before i locked the diff it used to stay in control
b) when i make a turn my xmod sometimes turns out of control and does a donut.
and one more problem but not THAT important is that i think i lost a bit of speed becuase im hearing a different sound coming from the diff which might be slowing my wheel down they dont rotate as smooth as before i locked the diff
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Last edited by bengali548; 07-02-2006 at 04:57 PM.
ok we have to go over this again. posi/limited slip and locked diff are different!!!.
a normal diff like the one namuna showed is found in most cars. when a car makes a turn, the outer wheel naturaly want to spin faster and the diff also refered to as an open diff will let the car take a nice smooth turn.
limted slip diff does just what they say, they fight against the wheels so they will turn at the same speed. but it can also be over powered and still act like a normal diff.
the problem with an open when u start adding more power a lsd becomes nessesary. what will happen is that while going through a corner as wait shifts out the inside wheel has less traction and will start to spin faster which will send the car into an oversteer. a lsd will help keep both wheels spining at the same time, but can diminish smoothness and overall handling. it is also needed with high power drag cars when they take off from a start. it helps keep the cars going straight even if one wheel hits a slick spot on the road that could send an open diff car into a donut.
a locked diff or welded diff has no real use but for straigts or rock crawling. in order for a car to turn properaly the outside wheel must turn faster, and if the the locked diff doesn't let this happen then u will have horrible handling. if the rear wheels have more traction then the front then u will get major understeer. if the front tires have more grip then the rear tires will slip and send u into a donut. a locked diff is just a bad idea.
i'm not to sure why the xmod will just suddenly have the wheels slip out from under it while going straight. probaly one finds more traction and pulls to the opposite direction or unequal wight distrubution. and like i said before, u will do a donut with a locked diff.
i wish there was a way to make a lsd for the evo but know ones can figure it out yet. i've had an idea of filling with a thick vicous (liquid) material that make it hard for the diff to one wheel faster but it can be overpowered like a clutch pack lsd. the problem with this is that the diff will likely leak and some oils and other liquids can break down the plastic.
the easiest lsd i can think of is a ball diff. get one then put somethin in there, or tighten it up good.
the lessen u learned here is that a limited slip diff is a cross between an open diff and a locked diff and it will preform as both. never lock ur diff either, nothing good can come of it. also posi stands for "positive lock", meaning the diff locks up under acceleration but turns back to a normal diff wheel deaccelerating. great for drags.
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