i'd love to get your help in compiling data for the lineup. let me know what you come up with and i'll see where we can put it up if you would like.

it's only a matter of time before we get more h plate options.

As it turns out, the whole thing is much easier than I thought. But having all the data laid out will make it much easier for everyone. To start with, the Body Mount set is all that matters for controlling wheelbase length. Some aftermarket clips would be nice, especially for mounting vintage American bodies with extreme overhang in front. But with the available mount kits, one should be able to mount any coupe, stock racing, 2+2, and most small 4-door bodies that we can find in 1:43 scale. Best of all the mount kits are very cheap. Previously I had the foolish impression that every actual battery chassis was a different length; now I realize that mounting any body on any chassis is actually quite simple: just measure the body's wheelbase and compare with the chassis spec chart. Then use the corresponding Body Mount set. No custom H-plate necessary! For maximum balance, you'll want to spring for appropriate fitting kits -- or their aluminum equivalents are perhaps more fairly priced. That way you can ensure the best wheel placement. Also, I'm pretty sure some dremelling of the wheel wells will be necessary, especially for vintage models. Can't wait to get started now.

About compiling these data, did you want to make an HTML table, or a plain text table? Or would you prefer them in CSV format? Perhaps I'll just start with a plain text post.

Mind if I post mine under here as it's also a custom body? Or will be? Got this today! A model of my very first car back when I was 14 years young! This is a 1/32 scale kit from ARII.
1970 "Mine was '72" Honda Z Coup
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g1...o/DSC09844.jpg
Being it's a small car, I thought that it just might fit my 1/43 scale RC Dnanos! And from the look's of the following pictures, it just might with some clever mods!
Murcielago chassis is just barely long enough to work:
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g1...o/DSC09845.jpg
But track width too wide.
Porsche chassis width is perfect, but too short:
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g1...o/DSC09847.jpg
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g1...o/DSC09848.jpg
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g1...o/DSC09849.jpg
It look's like I'll need another Dnano chassis with a combination of parts and with an HM "high-mount" motor mount for it to fit inside the body.
This look's like it'll be a fun project!

it looks like a simple fix with a DIY hplate. simply cut an old credit card or the like to the right length using the appropriate trackwidth chassis. it's the same old issue with mini-z modding. you can line up the track width but he wheelbases always seems to be off. all that was needed is a custom length h plate. it doesn't have to be cf or anything fancy. i've been using lexan hplates for mini-z hfay racing for the last year or more. just make sure you have the damper or a foam block as custom hplates are typically very soft.

Hi there arch, and thank's for the tip. I'll probably get another Dnano chassis some time in the future just for this project. It'll be an HM for sure.
Here's a picture of the real one I used to have:
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g1...ars/img151.jpg

Motor mount off and pretending custom H-plate in place. And removed the front body clip as it's too long for this bod. This gives you a better look at how it will come together.
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g1...o/DSC09850.jpg
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g1...o/DSC09851.jpg
Rear view. You can see why this'll need HM type.
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g1...o/DSC09852.jpg
Right now it look's like the rear wheels are sticking out, but it's not really like that. It's just sitting that way because the motor mount is in the way and not letting it sit in the proper position. But trust me, it is the perfect width for this body.
I'm going to have to make a custom nose clip for this one as the Dnano one won't work here.
I'm thinking 19's all around will work on this one! :D

Hi, can you post the final photos of this custom built? And what did you use to secure the body? That's one i'm interrested too.

Nuno

Hi Nalves! Sorry I did not find the time to paint this one yet. I will probably use foam blocks (RCP track material type) and lateral screws to secure the body, the same way I did with the Supra http://tinyrc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=23887

I recently saw on ebay two more 1/43 scale model kit's. The WRC Ford Focus, much like the original AutoScale was, and the Peugoet 206 WRC model. I'm thinking of getting both and doing the Pug like that Mini Power one!
I'm still waiting on my Renault R5-Turbo to come in.

Thanks!

Nuno

Hey naives, I can't wait to see that Le Man's car put together! Would look great sitting next to the 962 and 917's.
Keep us posted on it's progress! :D
Sounds like you should paint it up to match the MR03 and get one to match! :)
Always cool to have matching cars in different scales!

Hey guy's! Check out ebay item number 140324180533. It is a plastic model kit of the Acura NSX super car and it is pre-painted gray. It's 1/43 scale and would make for a nice Dnano body. I'm tempted to get one, but $50 seems a bit much.

Thats interesting, a bit pricey though. Good point it is already painted.
IMO the NSX is a potential future dNaNo ASC, at least the racing versions given the mini-z lineup so I would not choose that body, but it would be interesting to know what other cars this brand "Rosso Model Kit" makes.

I've found several great 1/43 scale plastic model kit's from Heller. I've got three on the way. The Renault R5-Turbo, Ford Focus WRC, just like the original AutoScale, and the Peugoet 206 WRC. This morning while searching ebay, I came across a Porsche 928 also from Heller which I've placed a bid on.
Some progress reports on my little Honda.Body work has begun. I used a styrene plastic sheet for front and rear bumper's. I will use this as a background for building the body kit using Milliput. I'll also use the Milliput for molding in the side skirts. http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g1...o/DSC09863.jpg
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g1...o/DSC09864.jpg

Some Milliput put in place.
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g1...o/DSC09865.jpg
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g1...o/DSC09866.jpg
Waiting for it to dry, and then some sanding to give it some shape!

got myself a 1/43 camaro ss body for my dnano and so i could use my centreline wheels iam having to use a custom h-plate that will be made in carbon fibre later on only one pic for now still working on some stuff but you get the idea also need to change the side mount as it is setup for the porsche body i have

http://i252.photobucket.com/albums/h...1020091417.jpg

Wow BooHoo !!! I think that is the best combo of centerlines and body I have seen yet. Is that body plastic. I have been wanting to do a whole classic Trans-Am Series of the late 60's in the dNaNo scale. You are bringing back some memorys with that 69.

Now THAT is where those wheels belong! Yes, way to go man! I'd like to see this one finished! Cheers! :D
It look's plastic to me!

i know the centerline wheels are bland but i happen to like them alot. they were my first choice of aluma-tech wheels.

I wouldn't say their bland, it just depends on the body their placed on. Boohoo's example of that classic Muscle Car is dead on for these wheels.

the body is a amt/ertl part no 6905. iam hoping to have some more done to it by next week and hopefully some paint on it aswell

Nice project boohoo and excellent choice of rims. I know this body, I adapt it once to a Epoch 1/43. You can see it on the first page of this thread (blue one). Amt/ertl 1/43 kits are perfect for the dnano chassis.

Thanks for the Part# boohoo, you've got me scouring ebay for 60's TA series cars. I designed some dNaNo universal body mounts a few months back in CAD, now I have some motivation to mill them out.

np`s. if your going to sell the mounts i would buy some from you as i cant figure that part out yet but if not i will figure something out

I have a universal design that works in SolidWorks, which means I will only have to change it 5 more times until it really works. If it functions well, I will throw them up on the site for minimal cost for anyone interested.

How will these universal mount's work? A sample picture would be appreciated. I've got several projects on hold that could use these I'm sure.

I took a look but I think the part file is on my computer at the shop. It basically works like a epoch body mount. The main difference is instead of a pin behind the front wheel, the universal mount cradles the sides of the dNaNo chassis. The rear pin is used to locate the body mount for and aft. The width of the T plate bracket (I forgot kyoshos name for it) does not matter because the only contact with it is concentric with its hole and the body mount pin.
I think you really need to see the 3d model to get it.

I could not find the original but here is the basic idea. The concept is to pivot the body on laterlly, (Hook the right side then bring the left side down). A epoch stlye front bumber would replace the current front mount.
I can also cut out varying length T plates for wheel base adjustments. Now you have me thinking about puting all three items in one package to include the side spacers shown.

http://miles219th.tripod.com/realtra...ount_dnano.jpg

We should design an adjustable T-plate that can slide forward and back some how for various bodies! Looking good!

like i said before if you make this i will defo buy some the possibility of bodys you could have is endless thanks for the image its god to see how it would work

Great design! I am all for it and would buy a few. Various length T plates would be awsome. I tried to cut some from a carbon plate but it is much more difficult than for the Z, particulary the holes must have the exact Ø to fit the screw posts.
I wonder if an adjustable T plate is feasible, one with two slits at the pod side but it would only work with MM ( and maybe HM) because the motor is lower on the RM and would block it from sliding.

Edit: a quick mockup
http://www.nanospeeders.com/images/dnano-T.jpg

Kind of what I was thinking Fovea! I would think RM would require some sort of spacer perhaps?

One of my smaller CNC's should be able to meet the required tolerance. I am in the process of upgrading the electronics on that one, but as soon as it’s back up I can knock some of these out. I don’t see why the adjustable mount would not work.
Racking and alignment could be an issue when tightening the small screws but it certainly could be overcome. I would be a little concerned about the torque requirement of those small screws to keep the pod secured in the slots vs. the stock holes. If it is an issue, it would be cheap to knock out a whole set of different length fixed plates.
I designed this one to try and eliminate what appears to be inside wheel hop on right hand corners only. I wanted to keep the rear soft but gain some torsional rigidity. (Kind of like a rear sway bar effect). I am not very knowledgeable on the fine points of tuning a dNaNo rear but thought I would try this.
This thread has strayed from the dnano gallery, maybe it should be somewhere else.

http://miles219th.tripod.com/realtra..._anti_roll.jpg

it may be easier in the end to simply do a collection of plates in various standard lengths. slots will simply be prone to slippage and racking unless you use spaced holes vs. slots.
it would seem simple to keep the chassis screw point stationary and extend the plate past the motor mount with holes at every few mm's.

I had the very same concern about those slot's but didn't want to take away from the idea. I've seen some slot's that had drilled holes in them to keep the screws lined up, but I think those were fragile and that was on larger cars as well. Would be too delicate on something this size.
Only problem with various plates is that the difference in length would have to be very tiny, and you'd have to have a ton of them to accommodate all the different models out there. Still, I'm all for anything to help adapt model kit's. I've got four on the way..................

Well a slot adjustable pod was on use on the Epoch spec2 and I never had a problem with it. The Epoch was not fast tough, but washers could be used on the dNaNo to prevent slippage.
http://nanospeeders.com/images/epoch-T.jpg

Another way would be an extender, basically a rigid rectangle with 4 holes, this one could be made in several length. The advantage is you can use the standard size T plates, stock, carbon, different hardness.

This is a Mini-z version of an extender I use with super long bodies.Works perfect.
http://nanospeeders.com/images/extender.jpg

I agree with Marc, making different length of T plates would be too much, especially if you want them soft, medium and hard.

The epoch has a index seration as I recall. But I think you are right about making it work. I also agree with Arch about the straight slots, however a slight change could make it effective. I will try and post 2 new designs for comment tonight specific to this.
One is a modified slot with serrations similar to Favs Idea. The other is a independent hole design like arch suggest. Independent hole spacing is probably limited to .075” on centers. If you use 4 different plates each offset .015” from each other you can achieve any spacing your want with a 0.015” step. The overall adjustment range is only limited to how many holes you want to have in each plate. Since we are making parts anyway a new T plate carrier could be made also with adjustment built into it. Good thread and exchange of idea’s going on here.

heres what ive done so far to make some mounts for my camaro dont need a front clip as it seems to hold pretty tight now i just need a h plate to finish this bit then paint time

http://i252.photobucket.com/albums/h...1120091435.jpg

http://i252.photobucket.com/albums/h...1120091434.jpg

http://i252.photobucket.com/albums/h...1120091433.jpg

Boohoo,
What is keping the front secure?
Here is a combined option, indexed at .060 increments. Might be able to take it down to .040. Three diferent plates could get you your choice of .015 increments. But then as Fav said, you have the multiple tuning plates to deal with.

http://miles219th.tripod.com/realtra...plate_adj1.jpg

I like that design best RealTrack's. I wonder how strong the points are between the connecting circles?