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  #1  
Old 06-20-2003, 01:50 AM
Smurf Smurf is offline
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Dipping motor in water?

Well, today I got my 4.2 pro and 4.2. And i was doing some reckless driving, and well my car kind of slipped into the sink. Only the way back part got wet though (upto the motor shaft). And after this occured my motor got alot faster and alot quieter and has stayed like that for the rest of the day. Has anyone else done this?
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Old 06-20-2003, 02:19 AM
rt450 rt450 is offline
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water is not a good idea. WD40 is much better and doesn't hurt the motor.
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  #3  
Old 06-20-2003, 02:33 AM
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will it rust or corrode now?
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  #4  
Old 06-20-2003, 02:46 AM
rt450 rt450 is offline
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it's possible. i'm surprised it didn't short.
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  #5  
Old 06-20-2003, 09:30 AM
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Actually I seem to recall something about breaking in motors under water. I can't remember if that was 1/10 scale RC, or HO scale slot cars drivers that were doing that, and I actually can't remember if it was water or lubricant they were using. I seem to recall a cup of water, but that doesn't quite make sense. I think further research needs to be done on this.

Now I need to go to my library, and see if they still have those slot car books from the '60s that I used to read as a kid in the '70s, because I'm almost positive that's where I seen this.

I'm pretty sure if you spray it off with WD-40, it will not corrode, but I'm not positive about any of this. Just saying you've triggered a vague memory in the back of my head that I must research farther.
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  #6  
Old 06-20-2003, 11:33 AM
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people take motors ranging from ones for 1/10 to mini-z motors and hook it up to a batery or two and run it in a cup of water. they do it at a lower voltage than what the motor is rated for so that it could be broken in better. the water helps take the dust away from the brushes i guess while its breaking in. if u use wd-40 as a lube, it might attract dust
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  #7  
Old 06-20-2003, 01:01 PM
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Something to do with water wearing and seating brushes better than you can regularly do.
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  #8  
Old 06-20-2003, 03:30 PM
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Enough with the WD-40...

Does anyone remember, or seen (for the younger gen), the OLD "portable" phones and the ads with the cyclist holding a phone weighing 10lbs and the same size as his foot to his ear?
Back then that was...NEW TECHNOLOGY!
Guess what. So was WD-40. It is not the ideal lube for much more than tool storage and large moving parts anymore. Take some drops and compare side by side w/ the newer lubes and you'll see it is not very refined. Sure it works but,...so does spit. Try using lubes for high-speed serviceable skate wheels. They are ultra-refined and some are made to keep dirt and dust away from the surface. Just think about this- my skate bearings are rated to produce NO vibration up to 40Mph!
I'll try to find some links later to help but leave the WD on the shelf for Grandma.
BTW- as far as expelling water from your motor (NOT PCB) don't use lubricants for that, instead use brake cleaner (+ a mask!) in short shots. It evaporates extremely fast and won't harm the electrical (DO NOT SOAK MOTOR) but watch the overspray because clear plastics will cloud-permanently!
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  #9  
Old 06-20-2003, 05:42 PM
nouseforname101
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Quote:
Originally posted by starion_999
Enough with the WD-40...

Does anyone remember, or seen (for the younger gen), the OLD "portable" phones and the ads with the cyclist holding a phone weighing 10lbs and the same size as his foot to his ear?
Back then that was...NEW TECHNOLOGY!
Guess what. So was WD-40. It is not the ideal lube for much more than tool storage and large moving parts anymore. Take some drops and compare side by side w/ the newer lubes and you'll see it is not very refined. Sure it works but,...so does spit. Try using lubes for high-speed serviceable skate wheels. They are ultra-refined and some are made to keep dirt and dust away from the surface. Just think about this- my skate bearings are rated to produce NO vibration up to 40Mph!
I'll try to find some links later to help but leave the WD on the shelf for Grandma.
BTW- as far as expelling water from your motor (NOT PCB) don't use lubricants for that, instead use brake cleaner (+ a mask!) in short shots. It evaporates extremely fast and won't harm the electrical (DO NOT SOAK MOTOR) but watch the overspray because clear plastics will cloud-permanently!
Nicely put. WD40 (in skateboard bearings) flushes the other lube out & when the WD40 drys up...

God my friends are stooopedur than me...lol
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  #10  
Old 06-20-2003, 06:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by starion_999
Enough with the WD-40...

Does anyone remember, or seen (for the younger gen), the OLD "portable" phones and the ads with the cyclist holding a phone weighing 10lbs and the same size as his foot to his ear?
Back then that was...NEW TECHNOLOGY!
Guess what. So was WD-40. It is not the ideal lube for much more than tool storage and large moving parts anymore. Take some drops and compare side by side w/ the newer lubes and you'll see it is not very refined. Sure it works but,...so does spit. Try using lubes for high-speed serviceable skate wheels. They are ultra-refined and some are made to keep dirt and dust away from the surface. Just think about this- my skate bearings are rated to produce NO vibration up to 40Mph!
I'll try to find some links later to help but leave the WD on the shelf for Grandma.
BTW- as far as expelling water from your motor (NOT PCB) don't use lubricants for that, instead use brake cleaner (+ a mask!) in short shots. It evaporates extremely fast and won't harm the electrical (DO NOT SOAK MOTOR) but watch the overspray because clear plastics will cloud-permanently!
Sorry, apparently I'm an unintelligent moron. I won't mention it again.

In fact I won't mention anything again.

I'm sorry if I sound like a crybaby child, because I'm not child, I'm a 32 yo adult who has many experiences of my own, and I feel I brought great deal of information to this forum in the past.

I only mentioned wd40 because it repelled water, and I was unsure if water was unsafe for the metal. I made it clear I was unsure of what I saying, and not to listen to me until I done further research.

This is not the first time I've delt with attacks like this on this forum. I am, in fact, sick of it, and I'm outta here.

Cya, nice knowin' you guys

**edit Actually you know I couldn't leave it at that. I came here to share what I remembered, and I'm going to say it.

It was early this morning when I posted, and I'm awake now.

It was in the old slot car books that I read about dipping motors in water to break them in. It was mentioned when I race 1/10th scale, but was an antiquated technique. We used break in drops. With either technique you need to use motor spray to get he water out. There is metal parts in the motor, and metal will corrode if the water is allowed to sit. Motor spray will disolve oils and dirt, and also repel water similar to Gumout, but it is safe on plastic, so don't go trying gumout just because I mentioned it. (Do I have to bold face that so no one yells at me?)

And just so you understand my background breaking in motors, I used to race at Scottsdale RC Speedway (SRS). There was some national level sponsered drivers, that raced out there every weekend, and we used to see them in the pages of RC Car Action. No I didn't race against them, i raced in the stock class, but my buddy raced against them, and always lost bad. I broke my motors in with my secret sauce (70% stock motor oil 30% Brasso), and my motors were always screaming. One time I let my friend borrow one of my modifieds, and he was screaming past the down the back stretch pulling wheelies. The Anoucers yeling into the PA, "Zanders pulling a wheelie down the back stretch, I aint never seen that before."

So yeah, I didn't just want to pull a crybaby fit, I just wanted to say I do know what I'm talking about motors, and I realize the problems with WD40, but I was concerned about the water, and I DID say for no one to act on my advice just yet.

So THAT is it, and I really am outta here now.

**edit agin Oh and one more thing, used wd40, 3in1, or Singer sewing machine oil in a pinch, but I always cleaned it out with motors spray, and never ahd a problem.


Oh yeah and one more thing, ha ha, nevermind I think I'm getting over it, because one thing I know, a few people that didn't listen to me, now have dead bits, so what do I care if someone agrees with me or not.

Just wasn't in the mood for it today, I guess, BUT I am sick of that jump down peoples throat attitude that seems to pop up quite often around here. You got a problem with me, come on down...we'll talk.


Oh, and one more thing for real. You shouldn't try any kind of break in techniques on the motors, becase they are not open endbel type motors, and wil trap any kind of moisture or dirt. The techniques I described were done on open end bell motors, I was also decribing brush break in techniques. Bit motor's brushed are just thing metal wires, and are a entirely different substance than 1/10 motor brushes. The cumutator might break in slightly, but I've had these motors apart, and tat thing doesn't really wear at all.. So what we're talking about here is breaking in the motor's one bushing. Running it underwater and spraying it out with motor spray might just work. Someone need to test it, but I'm not reccomending it, so I'm going to try it.

Let's go get Mikey, He'll try anything.
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Last edited by crazydave; 06-20-2003 at 07:49 PM.
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  #11  
Old 06-20-2003, 07:24 PM
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nrmcj nrmcj is offline
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?!. whoever the HELL pissed crazydave off should be ashamed of themselves. he's dropped more knowledge on this board then pretty much anyone. his paintjobs are unequaled by any other amateur, and his technical abilities own.

come on crazydave, come back dude, we're not all like that

*back on topic... i thought water would make a severe short.. i THINK.... cuz they always tell you that electricity and water dont mix...

however, it's not actually the water that conducts the electricity, it's the mineral ions in it. so... would running a motor in distilled, filtered, and boiled water help? that seems wierd as hell to me... but anyone got a spare 1.0 or 2.2 they can fry up trying this?
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Last edited by nrmcj; 06-20-2003 at 07:31 PM.
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  #12  
Old 06-20-2003, 08:15 PM
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blacksabbath070 blacksabbath070 is offline
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haha

yea that happened to me. I accidentally spilled water on the table once and it got in the Bits motor. This happened to one of my 2.6s and it ran fast for about 1 day then it just stopped working. The brushes must have gotten destroyed by it. So i dont really recommend water in the engine to anyone.
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  #13  
Old 06-21-2003, 02:24 AM
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crazydave - don't be mad at the kids. you won the bit contest remember?

i have 2 brand new motors i can sacrafice so i will add some water and see what it does. i will keep you all posted on the results.
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  #14  
Old 06-21-2003, 03:05 AM
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my motors still running just as fast. Its been about a day since it happend. No bad effects yet.
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  #15  
Old 06-21-2003, 06:14 AM
slugbugg slugbugg is offline
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WOW I remember the days long ago when breaking a 1/10 scale rc motor in in water was the thing to do.(hehe long time ago)

I would strongly recommend AGAINST using brake cleaner!
Atleast test it first because I know from first hand experience that some/most brake cleaners will attack certain/most plastics and destroy them(bad, very very bad).Some brake cleaners are flammable and some are not and they react differently to plastics.

When I have something that is electric/electronic that I want cleaned I reach for a can of either CRC ELECTRONIC cleaner or CRC QD CONTACT cleaner(pretty much the same product I think one is just an older can).Both are flammable but they leave NO RESIDUE and they are harmless to MOST plastics.They are designed to clean electric/electronic items so these would probaly be the best thing to use as a motor cleaner.
You would then have to relube the motor bushings to keep the wear down and rpm's up(wow one drop would do a few bit motors).I got a new lube from RADIO SHACK that is kind of thick and it is supposed to "NOT attract dust"(yeah right) but I'm going to give it a try anyway.There are so many good refined lubricants out there now, it's great.

Back when I was really into racing and everyone started using com drops to boost speed I discovered that C-56 (a lube similar to WD40-BUT a bit different) smelled just like the com drops and when used on the 1/10 scale rc motors you could hear the rpm's go up and it did make noticable speed.I would use the C-56 as com drops and use a light oil to lube the bearings/bushings.I never got the same results from using WD40.
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