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Old 01-22-2004, 10:46 AM
obx22 obx22 is offline
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Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: OuterBanks of N.C.
Posts: 20
Thoughts and questions.....

Hi folks,
new here, been reading for the last couple of days. I work at a franchise Shack and been twiddling with a couple of cars we had returned (switched out). I gotta admit I'm kinda surprised at the shear number of forums out here on this hobby, and you folks seem quite innovative in your thinking, thus I joined.
Anyway, here's a few questions:
Motors- Are all armatures in the stock size pretty much the same?
I'm thinking that if everyone was restricted to the same gearing, then the ultimate combination of windings/magnet structure would have been discovered. I'm wondering about the "flywheel" effect of the armature and its windings, there effect on torque and total speed output. I've noticed some cans and brush assemblys have bushings, some don't. I'm assuming the bushings are better, as are the thicker brushes. Has anyone experimented with replacing the can with a plastic tube> How about cutting the can with this shape slots ([) and folding them upwards as cooling fins? Has anyone rearranged the circuit board layout from bottom to top to make room for the batteries and lower the CG? How about lightening the chassis? I've begun removing all non-cosmetic plastic from the shells, but haven't started on the chassis.
Is there a suitable material to use as a boot for the CV joints(so they can be lubed)?
How about wheel wells glued into the shell to cut down on debris thrown into the innards? Or painting the interior of the shell with black paint to make the lights only show from their openings?
I've been thinking of wiring in a few relays to allow a dedicated seperate power supply straight to the drive motor (feasible?), can it be done and retain reverse?
I've been working on a "store" car to show what can be done given a little tinkering, as well as testing it against an unmodified car.

Factory spec. RSX running 4 alkalines, had the following run:
Standing start- 5.12 sec, Running start- 4.33 sec (top scale speed 207.85 mph/real speed 7.42 mph).

Modified Supra running 5 alkalines/*tires expanded with foam tape*/body lift/custom spinbrush w/different sproket, had the following run:
Standing start- 3.53 sec, Running start- 2.73 sec (top scale speed 329.67 mph/real speed 11.77 mph).

28th Scale 1/4 mile (47.142 ft) on shaded asphalt temp aprox. 40 degrees. Both cars wearing factory trim and tires*.
This seems miserably slow compaired to what seems possible(and is far below what employees were told these go in stock form).
Has anyone figured a way to change gearing on the fly?
Take care,
warren/obx22
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