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  #151  
Old 01-24-2004, 06:19 AM
xxspeednplayaxx xxspeednplayaxx is offline
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hey neuro, great mod, im more than sure im going with a team orion motor reduced to 35 turns. i went to rcmart.com and am about to order t.o.s. motor, a 10T pinion (set screw), but i also have the 12t pinion so ill have to see which feels best 2 me. now i plan on doing a fet mod... so by using the IRF7389 and IRL7389 (i dont think i have the # right, ill check before ordering) anyways all i have to do is purchase 2X of each fets listed, and wire them in the fashion of the diagram you posted and my t.o.s motor will be fine?

How many volts could that setup handel? another question is: would r.s. carry these fets?

im also curious as to how many volts a t.o.s motor could handle?

my current motor (that beastly thingy) currently gets the underneath of the chassis hot after about 5 minutes of use, will the fet mod listed in this post solve that problem, and also whats the maximum volts i could run through the chip to my beast motor while keeping the chipset safe (considering im only out for the safely of my board, the motor was under 5 bux)

im sorry for all the question, but i just wanna be sure before i put about a weeks worth of money into my xmod.. thnx!

Last edited by xxspeednplayaxx; 01-24-2004 at 12:33 PM.
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  #152  
Old 01-24-2004, 09:50 PM
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neurokinetik neurokinetik is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by xxspeednplayaxx
im sorry for all the question, but i just wanna be sure before i put about a weeks worth of money into my xmod.. thnx!
Short answer to long questions... FET mod isn't needed for that motor. Six cells on that setup is plenty safe. The 180 motor is designed for up to 12V. If you go higher than 7.2V, then you wiill probably be best off going with my FET setup, with four cells powering the main electronics and the full battery setup powering the FET board.

Good luck finding a pinion that works, I have yet to find a satisfactory substitute.
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  #153  
Old 01-24-2004, 10:58 PM
sinistar sinistar is offline
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Neuro Good Work, I'm definetly going to be using this information on my project that is going to be next.

If you ever wanted to put any other type of any 1/24 1/25 scale body on your setup that would allow or should I say will allow more room for your fet setup along with the biggest motor and batteries setup let me know I have made 3 1/24 1/25 body fits for my Xmod and have had much room left. My first kit to fit which is being put through it's 3 week paint process was a Honda Civic Hatchback 2 in' 1 Revell kit. The second was a Eclipse Fast and Furious kit (Green eclipse by Revell). And my last completed fit was a 67 Ford Mustang Fastback which by the way had enough room in the back bumper area to fit at least two 9 volts stacked on top of each other and laying on their widest width up aginst the bottom of the trunk or mounted at this area. The motor area was incredible to you could even mount a set of lights up there and still have like a Mabuchi Re 280 or fatter. Lots of space all around and definately room for more batteries that is if you took out the stock batt holders.

At any rate though the point here is you can generate space by whatever fit you decide on here. The possibilities are endless but to narrow it down in a reasonable process would be to make whatever setup first and then decide on the body fit would be later or vise versa depending on how well versed one is with their project knowledge.

My Next body fit project after I have finished my Civic will be a Fujimi InitalD AE86 comic version 1/24 scale from HLJ.COM. The Trueno will be the end of all competitors as far as I'm concerned within miniz and xmods since I have mastered the Trueno (AE86 type I,J) and S.S. version(j) on GT3 it is a very good car and can drift perfectly with the proper tuning. And the theory behind this project is to make a sleeped out drifter of a trueno. Neuro Your FET upgrade seems to be the way I'm leaning towards right now as far as power goes. I'm trying to finish up my civic and still develope the newer drivetrain for the Trueno project I would like to be able to know just how the FET upgrade all looks and such without a body put on it to start to get an idea of how to start to build my trueno. The Drivetrain will comprise of either a stock rearend setup and a custom slavebox diff for the front with AWD capibilities or a Tamiya dual gear box for a rearend assembly and a very crazy all wheeldrive train rod connected to the custom diff slavebox. It's all possible and I'm going to do it. But I'm wanting to be shure first that I need to know and see your final design on your FETs so I can do the mod and make a very sick Xmod. Have you ever seen BTW while at RS the Tadiran AA 7.2V lithium Batt? very interesting supply there to make a setup.

thanks for your work Neurokinetik,
Sinistar
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  #154  
Old 01-25-2004, 10:40 AM
xxspeednplayaxx xxspeednplayaxx is offline
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wait neuro, your fet setup allows for a certain amount of voltage to the chip and the rest to the motor? do you have a regulator? could i still acomplish this by putting a 5v relay on my batteries (if they were 4x lipoly) as well as an internal fet upgrade?... im sorry for the confusion im really lost, i want to set up my car with 4x lipoly, and put a relay(or regulator not sure which1) to keep the chip safe, i also want to run the orion 180 motor reduced to 35 turns... can this be done? i was under the impression that all these motors could handle 18 volts

Last edited by xxspeednplayaxx; 01-25-2004 at 10:48 AM.
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  #155  
Old 01-25-2004, 10:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by xxspeednplayaxx
wait neuro, your fet setup allows for a certain amount of voltage to the chip and the rest to the motor? do you have a regulator? could i still acomplish this by putting a 5v relay on my batteries (if they were 4x lipoly) as well as an internal fet upgrade?... im sorry for the confusion im really lost, i want to set up my car with 4x lipoly, and put a relay(or regulator not sure which1) to keep the chip safe, i also want to run the orion 180 motor reduced to 35 turns... can this be done? i was under the impression that all these motors could handle 18 volts
The most recent setup that I posted connects the FETs directly from the batteries to the motor, with just the four wires run back to the main board for control. In theory (and this has not yet been tested) the FETs could be wired to a larger voltage while the board gets its normal 4.8V.
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  #156  
Old 01-25-2004, 11:00 AM
xxspeednplayaxx xxspeednplayaxx is offline
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so if you do this , do you remove the stock fets? im really sorry with all the questions but i plan to do some crazy modding next weekends (finished with finals) and im just trying to be sure with my aproach,


could you test your external fet setup? just add 1 additional battery and check the chips voltage... and the fets you used were the ir and il... how many volts can that handle.. as well as hpw many volts can the orion motor handle? or betr yet what torquey 180 size motor can handle 14.4 volts?? again sorry for the nub question and thnx for the quick responce
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  #157  
Old 01-25-2004, 01:19 PM
scatmanjohn01 scatmanjohn01 is offline
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the fet upgrade has NOTHING to do with voltage, it only allows you to run hotter motors. if you tried running 14.4 volts on only upgraded fets, it would pop in an instant. if you want to run more cells use jshwaas regulator mod or chinos relay mod.
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  #158  
Old 01-25-2004, 02:26 PM
xxspeednplayaxx xxspeednplayaxx is offline
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ok so let me see i if i have this straight...

1. all neuros fets mods are, are a simple way to relocate the upgraded fets, so that bigger ones can be used w/o any troubles under the car.

2. the fet mod in general allows you to use a more demanding motor, like in real cars, you must give a v8 more gas than a inline4, so the fet mod gives more fuel.

3. team orion stock motor under 7.2 volts dosent require a fet mod, but after 7.2 volts a fet mod should be in order.

4. in order to put an insane amount of volage in your xmod, you must follow either jshwaas regulator mod or chinos relay mod.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
with this i have but three questions and then i wont bother anyone about fet/motors/voltage

1. by performing neuro's latest fet mod (the one that is said to run beter than the novac) could i use a plasma dask motor.

2. by performing the above fet mod, how will my xmods run time be affected?

3. by performing the regulator/relay mod ive heard that you loose you proportional control, is this true

and finaly id like to thank neurokinetic and scatmanjohn01 for putting up with me beging a nub and moron... thanx again
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  #159  
Old 01-26-2004, 09:25 AM
scatmanjohn01 scatmanjohn01 is offline
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no prob man.

I talked to jshwaa, and he said his regulator mod keeps digital proportion steering and speed. With Relay mod, you can only go forward or back at one speed, not sure if you can turn.
I' day anywhere over 8 volts, is where you wanna do jshwaa's mod. It looks like a hard process (and is hehe), but when im done with his mod it will be worth it.

About the plasma Dash, I am really not sure if it will work...
Chino, (who made the relay mod) says that his friend tried using a plasma dash on just upgraded fets, nothing else, and his fets popped in like 3 seconds after pushing throttle.

So, be careful what you do.
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  #160  
Old 01-26-2004, 10:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by xxspeednplayaxx
so if you do this , do you remove the stock fets? im really sorry with all the questions but i plan to do some crazy modding next weekends (finished with finals) and im just trying to be sure with my aproach,


could you test your external fet setup? just add 1 additional battery and check the chips voltage... and the fets you used were the ir and il... how many volts can that handle.. as well as hpw many volts can the orion motor handle? or betr yet what torquey 180 size motor can handle 14.4 volts?? again sorry for the nub question and thnx for the quick responce
With my mod, you do remove the stock FETs completely. The FETs can handle up to 55V, if memory serves. (The full specs are posted somewhere in this thread)

I did a little testing last night, not on the FET mod, but to see how the board handles six cells. It turns out that I was correct, and that there already is a zener diode on the board that keeps the voltage to the critical components at 5.3V, even though a higher voltage is being supplied to the board. It very likely that it is this zener diode that fries and causes receiver damage when too many cells are used. It would be really easy to upgrade this diode to one that can handle more power, and thus not require external regulators, etc.

I'll post more on this as I do more testing.

Quote:
About the plasma Dash, I am really not sure if it will work...
Chino, (who made the relay mod) says that his friend tried using a plasma dash on just upgraded fets, nothing else, and his fets popped in like 3 seconds after pushing throttle.
Well, my setup fared much better than that, I actually ran the car around for about a minute before deciding that the Plasma Dash was unsuitable for XMods. It didn't fry my FETs, though they certainly got hot.
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Last edited by neurokinetik; 01-26-2004 at 10:03 AM.
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  #161  
Old 01-26-2004, 04:08 PM
xxspeednplayaxx xxspeednplayaxx is offline
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is their any links furthering describing jshwaa's regulator mod?


and neuro, by installing a beefier zenner diode i can run more volts, just like that? interesting...
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  #162  
Old 01-26-2004, 05:04 PM
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interesting, just finished the chapter on diodes in my electronics class and i learned a lot about the zener diodes. a suitable but beefier zener diode would be one that handles more watts but maintains the 5.3 volts thus pushing more cells woudln't make the diode burn up so easily
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  #163  
Old 01-26-2004, 05:17 PM
xxspeednplayaxx xxspeednplayaxx is offline
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hmmm, pretty cool.. i was just reading up jshwaa's regulator mod
http://pub238.ezboard.com/fxmodrcfrm...icID=512.topic
cept i dont get the schematic


p.s. hey neuro, i saw you giving me credit in that dumb forum about the new redline motor, thnx alot.. if your interested that 260 motor has 24 turns, i plan to beef up the motor with various techniques on this forum, however i still havent got the thing to sit flush, but once finals are over its xmods 24/7!
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  #164  
Old 01-26-2004, 07:37 PM
scatmanjohn01 scatmanjohn01 is offline
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Maqn someone needs to make a how to on removing fets.. its friggin hard to do (im practicing on a fried pcb) Neuro you up for it hehe?
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  #165  
Old 01-26-2004, 09:47 PM
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neurokinetik neurokinetik is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by scatmanjohn01
Maqn someone needs to make a how to on removing fets.. its friggin hard to do (im practicing on a fried pcb) Neuro you up for it hehe?
I should have done it the other night when I did them on the Mini-z, but I was too excited about getting them in so I could try out a hot motor in it.
At least with the XMods board it is wide open around the FEts, which makes them much easier to take off and upgrade.

BTW, I was testing my FET setup tonight with the 21 turn double wound motor with Drac's magnets, and six cells. The biggest torture test yet. The result? The motor would get hot enough that I couldn't hold on to it, but the FETs were just barely warm, even after a couple solid minutes of free-running the motor.

Side note, I inadvertantly learned that a single AAA NiMH battery can supply around 8A of current. I was trying to check my batts to see how much charge they had left, and forgot that I still had the meter hooked up for current, not voltage. The AAA IC3's can supply almost 9A.
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Last edited by neurokinetik; 01-26-2004 at 09:51 PM.
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