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  #16  
Old 09-08-2003, 11:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by eman1
Will a bit charg motor fit in these?
And will a bit charg rear axle fit on the new zipzaps?
The answer is yes to both questions.

FAQ Updated.

Last edited by Bad Company; 09-08-2003 at 11:55 AM.
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  #17  
Old 09-08-2003, 09:10 PM
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yea but my question is will the springs fit on microsizer knucles??
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  #18  
Old 09-09-2003, 01:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by micromatch
yea but my question is will the springs fit on microsizer knucles??
No, they will not. The knuckles for the SE are smaller and the springs are too small to fit on the regular Zip Zaps knuckles or the MS knuckles.

FAQ Updated.

MS on left, SE on right. Small SE spring in middle top.
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File Type: jpg se 021.jpg (24.4 KB, 461 views)

Last edited by Bad Company; 09-09-2003 at 01:41 PM.
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  #19  
Old 09-09-2003, 05:40 PM
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how is the suspension travel compared to a regular zz or a bit/ms?
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  #20  
Old 09-09-2003, 08:57 PM
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suspension travel is substantially less than the travel on a bit.

But I have been thinking that front suspension is farily uneffective without rear to allow the car to fully sway.

In the turns yeah perhaps it helps, but it can't help a whole lot.
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  #21  
Old 09-10-2003, 07:49 AM
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I had to revise the FAQ. After further research, I found that the MS motors do fit in the SE, but you have to spin them around to make sure the motor contact is touching the chassis contact good, and even then the motor wants to sputter. Can anyone else confirm this or have any input?
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  #22  
Old 09-10-2003, 08:05 AM
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Confirmed......I have fiddled with all of my Tomy/MS motors many different ways for many many minutes....they actually fit in the well, however, the car will not move....it stutters when you try to go fwd/or rev.....and does not move...
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  #23  
Old 09-10-2003, 08:47 AM
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I believe I have a reason for the sputtering (to be confirmed when I put my DMM on it tonight)...

My theory is that the new SEs suffer the same miserly current output of the 1st generation ZZs...Which limits the SE to being able to only use motors with low power needs.

I came to this conclusion because I pulled out my pink endbell 3.8 motor and a Tomy 2.6...the 3.8 sputtered and barely moved, while the 2.6 was quite spritely.

I'm gonna be quite dissapointed if I find out I'm right.
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  #24  
Old 09-10-2003, 09:05 AM
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Maybe....maybe not...

I have tested all Extreme Micros motors in these and they work great. They don't however work well in old zz's older than the gold civic. Newer than gold civic, they work great.

Not sure what that means but I also tested some clone motors with great results...the only motors I couldn't get to work were tomy motors.
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  #25  
Old 09-10-2003, 09:22 AM
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Looks like we may go thru the whole deal of new and upgraded generations of PCB again. Maybe by the time Zip Zaps 3.0 come out, the SE's will be good like the later generations of the original Zips.

Zip Zaps 3.0?.....Did I just say that? Here we go again.
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  #26  
Old 09-10-2003, 09:24 AM
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Bad

Have you had any luck fixing the sticking steering per the other post saying that the alignment adj under the car fixes it?

I can't understand and the one member said they got this to fix the twitchy/uneven steering....

Any thoughts?
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  #27  
Old 09-10-2003, 09:26 AM
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No, not yet. I just read that myself this morning and was going to try it today. I will let you know how it goes.
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  #28  
Old 09-10-2003, 09:41 AM
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Actually, I just tried it. It's pretty simple, but hard to explain.

Remember one thing. You have turn the car off and back on after every adjustment made to the alignment dial under the chassis. This resets it to the position you just adjusted it to. The controller also has to be on for the car to reset each time.

When you adjust the dial and reset it, you can visually see where the front wheels are and how centered they are. Do this until they appear centered, then test it by driving it.

The dial on the bottom of the chassis has to be turned almost one full turn to see any movement in the wheels.

I just did this, and now the sputtering has stopped and my car turns both directions pretty equally. I assume that the sputtering may be from not having the alignment centered and the servo? having to adjust for this?

I think the key is getting the chassis adjustment centered first.

Credit Drizz for this as he found this out, I only tested and verified it.

I kinda did mine opposite of Drizz, and used the alignment adjustment for the major adjustment, and the steering trim for the minor adjustment.

Last edited by Bad Company; 09-10-2003 at 09:52 AM.
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  #29  
Old 09-10-2003, 10:53 AM
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Thanks for the help Bad C...and big big ups to Drizz for figuring the whole fix out.....you are a RS saver...


I'll give them a shot when I get to the shop, gotta print the posts out to take, no net at the store...

I'll let ya know what results I have this evening....

And to be honest, if this works on mine and a couple more people get it to work as I supsect it will, I would suggest making the tutorial/fix a sticky as I have a big feeling most like I did will return perfectly good cars that just need tuned.

Thanks again Drizz for the fix figuring out and Bad C for testing and verifying...
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  #30  
Old 09-10-2003, 12:55 PM
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No more sticky huh? Also, what happened to the first Savanna SE...COME SEE thread?
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