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  #1  
Old 03-14-2003, 10:24 AM
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What mod should I do?

I have three MS (2 normal, 1 sport) and a new motorworks clone. What mods should I do first? I know about most mods, but I've never gotten around to doing them. So, which ones should I do first, considering I don't have a soldering iron? Please, anything would help.
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  #2  
Old 03-14-2003, 10:35 AM
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get a solderingi iron first.
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Old 03-14-2003, 10:53 AM
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Hey hogjowlz!!..

I did the dual cell last night with no luck. One question for you, In the diagrams shown on this site and others it shows the positive on the driver side and the negative on the passenger side on the charging post. If I follow the red wire from the pcb to the post red goes to passenger side and black goes to driver side just the opposite as the diagrams shown every where. All of my clones and tomys are like this. Am I doing it wrong or is the diagram wrong? Can you draw me up a quick diagram so I can try again tonight?..

THANKS!!
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Old 03-14-2003, 11:09 AM
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which diagram?
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  #5  
Old 03-14-2003, 11:14 AM
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This is the correct diagram (after I corrected it)
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  #6  
Old 03-14-2003, 11:17 AM
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My advice about mods would be that whatever you do, do them one at a time and drive the car a bit in between them. I've made the mistake of doing 3 or 4 things at once and then not knowing why the car suddenly drives like crap.

As far as which mods to do, consider if you are interested in performance mods or appearance mods, or both. Some that I have done that were all fairly easy were antenna upgrades for both the car and transmitter, a stand-alone charger (better charges, saves batteries), tire/motor/gear combinations, as well as painting and decals for the bodies. I've done some wheel mods that were more difficult and problematic, as well as the spring suspension mods that didn't help my situation too much. But yeah, get a soldering iron ($8.00 at Radio shack), and remember that one of the coolest things about these little cars is if you totally screw up, you probably haven't ruined much more than $20.00 won't fix.
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Old 03-14-2003, 11:28 AM
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the diagram is correct

what are you charging with? a normal charger wont work. you need at least 3aa bats to charge a dual cell.
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Old 03-14-2003, 11:37 AM
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The ABOVE DIAGRAM is completely backwards from the other one on the site.. Geez so I did it all backwards.. Oh well will attempt it again tonight.

Like I said, The diagram above shows the correct negative and positive sides and the other one is backwards on the charging post. I new that when I was doing it but I decided to keep following the diagram.

THANKS!
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  #9  
Old 03-14-2003, 11:40 AM
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Also... I guess this weekend I need to go to Radio Shack and buy one of the build boxes and build me a nice stand alone charge with 2 and 3 cells in it with a swicth to go back and fourth between them. I guess I could even add a 4 cell pack if I go tri cell later in one of the other cars... Also last night I also pulled the left stearing wire off so I have to hook it back on.. Geeez I hate those little wires.

One more thing!! I used some shrink rap as my insulator is that ok? I am sure it is thick enough and would do the same job as tape or cardboard..
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  #10  
Old 03-14-2003, 11:50 AM
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No prob Webguy I noticed the diagram on QFM was wrong so I corrected it with paintshop. I hope someone from QFM will correct it on their site, it confused alot of people... Shrink wrap should be fine Good Luck!!
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  #11  
Old 03-14-2003, 11:52 AM
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Things should go much SMOOTHER now that I know what I am doing. I knew the whole time that the diagram was wrong but went ahead and followed it because I thought maybe they knew something I did not know.
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  #12  
Old 03-14-2003, 12:08 PM
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3 cells work.
4cells will charge faster.
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Old 03-14-2003, 12:09 PM
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also wrap up your second battery good so the solder joints dont break every day.
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Old 03-14-2003, 12:10 PM
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Hey Webguy-

Just a tip on the stand-alone charger: get one of the Walmart MotorWorks clones and use that stand-alone charger as a starting point. Unless you really know what you're doing, the MW charger gives you a box and a PCB with a button and a timer, and a built-in battery holder. I rigged mine up with a Radio Shack multi-voltage, 1000mAh AC-DC converter, as well as a 2 or 3 AA option with a jumper. For less than $20.00 in parts you get a multi-voltage, timed, button-activated, AC or battery-powered charging base by drilling a hole, soldering 2 wires and gluing a charging pad from one of your extra transmitters. Let me know if you want more specific instructions.
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  #15  
Old 03-14-2003, 12:15 PM
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ya i glued a charging pad on my nkok charger. then again making a radioshack charger will cost you about 4$.
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