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  #1  
Old 10-03-2002, 08:32 PM
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d00kie d00kie is offline
It's super useless!
 
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Angry Gah!!! Failure!!!

I just spent 8 dollars for a soldering kit for the purpose of removing the cripple capacitor on my Initial D bit. Boy, was it hard, the soldering iron was acting crazy; sometimes it didn't even melt the solder even when its there for a whole minute, sometimes it melts. After thirty minutes of fighting with the iron, I decided to call it quits, and go with Kwik's suggestion to get a longer antennae for the chassis and a telescoping one for the remote control.

Gaaarr!!! Plus, why are white LEDs extremely expensive? I saw em' at radioshack and they cost 5 bucks apiece!!! Well, so plans for tommorow is to return the damm soldering set since I'll try to stay away from doing any projects requiring soldering and purchase a telescoping antennae and an extended cable antennae.
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  #2  
Old 10-03-2002, 09:14 PM
payaso payaso is offline
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Your not using the tip are you? Use the flat side of the tip for best results....

silla
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  #3  
Old 10-03-2002, 09:50 PM
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d00kie d00kie is offline
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Angry

I always tip the soldering iron 45 degrees and touch the area with the surface right after the tip. After I realize that they didn't melt sometimes, I tried a ton of positions with the iron, including holding the iron 90 degrees upward!!!
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  #4  
Old 10-03-2002, 10:30 PM
payaso payaso is offline
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How many watts is your iron?

silla
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  #5  
Old 10-03-2002, 11:52 PM
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d00kie d00kie is offline
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30 Watt
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  #6  
Old 10-03-2002, 11:57 PM
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Namuna Namuna is offline
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You using flux? Also, did you file down the soldering iron tip to get off any oxidation?
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  #7  
Old 10-04-2002, 01:30 AM
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323iT 323iT is offline
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d00kie
whats your avatar?
is it a SD gundam?
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  #8  
Old 10-04-2002, 05:16 PM
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Another tip is to let the soldering iron get up to tempature, then you can tin the tip of the soldering iron. Don't forget to wipe the tip of the iron with a moist sponge to keep the tip tinned and clean when using it.
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  #9  
Old 10-04-2002, 09:00 PM
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d00kie d00kie is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by 323iT
d00kie
whats your avatar?
is it a SD gundam?
Yah SD GP02 Physallis from 0083 Stardust Memories

Also, I did that clean the tip thing on the solder many times.
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  #10  
Old 10-06-2002, 10:46 PM
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Diego Diego is offline
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d00kie

You should prepare the solder tip for it to work rigth.

First, when cool, use some sand paper or a file and to bring roughness to the tip and the sides

Second, when hot, apply some tin to the tip and with a wet sponge clean it of.

You should have now a shinning tip and should work a lot better.

Diego
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  #11  
Old 10-06-2002, 11:43 PM
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It takes time to learn how to use it. Keep trying
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  #12  
Old 10-09-2002, 04:50 AM
e_lm_70 e_lm_70 is offline
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Hi Guys,

Just removed yesterday from my 45MHz Honda S2000 the stupid Capacitor from the Car PCB.

The Car PCB is damned small, and so I decided to keep far my cheap solder.

The smart tricky is to use small scissors, token from my girlfriend, what she uses for cut nails. As final clean I used a small flat screwdriver and a chewgum.

How the tricky work: use the scissors and kill the capacitor, take cares to don't add too much power on this operation for don't damage the PCB.
When the capacitor is well broken, with the small screwdriver create an empty space between the two initial margin of the capacitor.
Finally with a pre chewed gum, remove the dust on your PCB.
The work don't take more then 2 minutes, no big skills are required.

As result my (G-05) 57Mhz Rx-7 with just killing the capacitor in the controller has a range over 7 meters (at least 5+ gain with the mod).

My (G-02) 45MHz Honda, has no capacitor on the controller, and killing the one on the car, I just got 50cm more ! What a crap ! I just guess that playing with the variable induction in the CAR PCB I can gain something !

My 35MHz Booster, as a painful lower 2m range and no idea how to increase, a part from an external antenna that is on the way to arrive at home !

Last tip: almost all the Bit has a knot in the wire antenna, removing this know and let get out from behind the PCB of the car, the length will be longer and the range is better. Again no mess with the solder is required !

One observation, the PCB of the booster is very different from the on in the standard Bit, so no idea where is the capacitor to be killed (if there is one). As well the controller is 100% different, so same story.

The G-02 and G-05 have slightly different PCB, a part from the capacitor, present in the G-02 and not on the G-05, the G-02 has as well a capacitor between the B-F, the two contact that go to the engine, I can understand that this help and preserve the engine, but as well can drop performance, since the resistance in a SMD capacitor is far to be as max as possible.

e_lm_70
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  #13  
Old 10-16-2002, 03:03 PM
gek gek is offline
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Small tip I learned at school

Get a wire underneath the component you want to desolder. Attach one end to something hard (or solder it to another component) and heat the solder point. When its hot enought just pull on the wire and the solder should follow the wire.
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