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  #1  
Old 12-01-2003, 05:36 AM
Cyfiawnder Cyfiawnder is offline
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Thumbs up (LONG)Another Motor To try "Nurelco Mustache Trimmer"

Going by the SBP mod, I decided to try out a few things. I bought the spin brush pro yanked out the motor dropped on a 11 tooth stainless slot-car gear and Away I went. Some problems arose though. I did what most people said and used the entire arse end of my original 26k stage one motor less soldering and all that jive. I noticed that my NiMH rechargable bats were wearing down a lot faster. So i decided to tweek the motor a bit. I took it appart and re-wrapped the wire to as much as the motor would hold... (about about 6 more feet total) Same torque and a little higher rpm. Bats still dying, Now I only have 4 cells because I didn't want to throw off the handling abilities of my car. I decided to look for a different motor. Then I saw it. My old Nurelco Beard and Mustache trimmer. Just out of curriosity I pulled it appart, you can do that without permanantly damaging the thing. The motor is 'almost' the exact same size as the xmods motor. Same size and shape around, but a little longer. The serial or part number on the top of the motor is "FF-180SH" "KN 12 94 07" it has a small blue circular insignia with a strange squigly "m" inside it, no other markings besides "Made in CHina". The motor is completely incased in metal including the "brush" end. I got the motor to fit by bending up the connectors in the back and removing the rear motor "mount" from the chassis. I soldered on the resistor and transistor along with the wiring harness from the stock stage one (in reverse, black harness wire, to red dotted pole. Red harness wire to unmarked pole.) Then I put my 11 tooth 48 degree slot car pinion on it, and used the 23 tooth drag drive gear in the car (white was a bit too tight, red was the best fit.)Everything just barely fit. The torque on this motor is outstanding. If you hold the car in your hand and gun the throttle you can feel the car twist in your hand. Must need a lot of power to power an electric trimmer that is designed to trim tough ass facial hair. It gets to top speed in about 3 feet and its a fast top speed. If you gun the car to full speed and twist the wheel hard the car will flip right over. I have the AWD kit, bearing set, the suspension kit (with hard springs, and 4.5 bar) and tire upgrade (using soft treaded on my carpeted floor.) Now I can do the starski and hutch move. Full throttle in reverse twist the wheel and jam into forward and the car will 180 on its wheels and go the same direction in forward that it was going in reverse. I use the Limited Slip (red) Differential in the rear that came with the awd kit. It stears a lot better for me. The white dif was a bit faster but my top speed turning radious with the white differential was almost twice that of the red. Now when I do top speed full circle turns (doughnuts) it's even tighter than before because the higher torque engine keeps the rear wheels spinning so the ass end flys aroung the front end the front tires control the direction of the car the rear tires are just giving it momentum. I can do a full speed full circle turn in less than 2.5" radious. The Batteries last a little longer than they do with the stage two drag setup so I'm quite happy with the results. Car has more pickup than the stage two drift motor, and higher top speed than the stage two top speed motor. It's a lot faster than it ever was before. I just hope R.S. starts making Headlight replacement lenses. I just ran full speed into my guitar stool and now i have a padiddle. Good thing I haven't purchased the body kit upgrade yet. The best thing is I already have a New beard trimmer so I didn't break anything I needed. This is a good mod to do if you already have one of these sitting around, but to go buy one just to pull out the motor is a bit expensive, maybe they can be ordered from Nurelco as replacement parts. IF so they're probably pretty cheap.
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Loud doesn't = fast.
Import doesn't = quality.
Chrome Doesn't = performance gains
Clear Tailights just make you easier to spot.
My 4 cylinder has 210 Natural aspirated HP is only 2.3 li, and is 15 years old, and it was built right here in the good ol' USA.
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  #2  
Old 12-01-2003, 10:32 AM
stl2ner stl2ner is offline
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http://www.mabuchi-motor.co.jp/engli...ff_180phsh.pdf

is it this motor? that is the motor that most believe the sbp motor is. I took apart a cyber sonic tooth brush and it had a mabuchi motor init, the name is stamped on the end plate. mine is plastic in the back though and not metal, I wonder if i have that same motor as your beard trimmer, the tooth brush was only 10 dollars so not too much money. I paln on fnally installing the motor today. I will post the times and mph later once i do all my testing.
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  #3  
Old 12-01-2003, 03:04 PM
Cyfiawnder Cyfiawnder is offline
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That looks like it, same POLES on the end from what I could see. Those look like rather low RPM's but maybe it is running a little faster because of the higher voltage from my 4 1.2v NiMH batteries instead of the single AA 1.5 that was in it. Maybe the back was incased in metal to keep it sealed from the posibility of water getting into the motor. That would end it's life realy quick. I'm going to check out the local hobby store this weekend and see if they have any that size but with MORE torque and HIGHER RPMs that would be fantastic. Trains and Lanes (the local hobby shop) Sells 28 Gear motor Pinions for PRO slotcar racing(held on by a tiny Alen screw). If I got one of those and a higher Torque Higher RPM 180 Motor. I would have to epoxy the tires on the wheels because they would spin so fast they would stretch out from centipicle force and fly right off. I would also have to build a custom motor mount system to mount the whole shabang on there. And my budy that has a SKYLINE will crap himself when my little white SUPRA blows his plastic doors off Now all I need to do is figure out a way to take the slop out of the front end... maybe a sway bar made from a paperclip, and a little teflon tape on the end links to make the stearing tighter and more responsive...
__________________
Loud doesn't = fast.
Import doesn't = quality.
Chrome Doesn't = performance gains
Clear Tailights just make you easier to spot.
My 4 cylinder has 210 Natural aspirated HP is only 2.3 li, and is 15 years old, and it was built right here in the good ol' USA.
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  #4  
Old 12-01-2003, 09:18 PM
Shane_882002 Shane_882002 is offline
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Go

will this work
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VAPORIZER REVIEW
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MEDICAL MARIJUANA CLONES WHOLESALE
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Last edited by Shane_882002; 09-10-2011 at 02:48 PM.
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  #5  
Old 12-02-2003, 12:06 AM
nosser nosser is offline
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...

that picture of the 180ph is different from the 130 size motors that many are posting the spin brush come with. Can someone varify that the spin brush comes with a 180ph and not a 130. The 130 size motors are the same as stock and a 180 would be a little bigger looking like a micro rs4 stock motor. I dont want to watse money buying a 130 sized motor from a spin brush.
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  #6  
Old 12-02-2003, 03:08 AM
stl2ner stl2ner is offline
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the mabuchi motor i have out of the cybersonic tooth brush looks a little different than the spin brush ones, I have not had a chance to put a gear on them to test them yet, but from just plugging the motors in I can already tell the spin brush motor will have more torq. but until I do some time trials tomorrow I won't know which one is better. they are the same size, just a little cosmetically different.
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  #7  
Old 12-04-2003, 10:41 PM
moose moose is offline
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There is some thing wrong with this world when people take tooth brushes and such and take the motors out of them. they are in a tooth brush leave them there
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  #8  
Old 12-05-2003, 11:49 AM
Bulldozer Bulldozer is offline
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The motor in a SPB is EXACTLY the same size as a stock motor. It is a 130 class.
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  #9  
Old 12-05-2003, 03:16 PM
Snow Snow is offline
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Hey Cyfiawnder,

You wouldn't happen to be describing the Ford 2.3 Lima motor in your signature, would you?
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  #10  
Old 12-06-2003, 05:25 AM
Cyfiawnder Cyfiawnder is offline
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No Actualy I'm describing the Oldsmobile 2.3 Q4 HO. 180hp-160ft/lb stock. No turbo no variable valve timing. Just 16v DOHC. I got 210 from the Ignition Timing adjustment, Intake exhaust, High Performance Coils, fuel pump, and Stage 2 Jet chip. 30 HP after that is being causcious The motor is still stock. No "cams" or anything of that sort.

The Motor From the Nurelco Shaver is NOT the same size as the spin brush motor and Makes Loads more torque. It's about 3/16" Longer than the Spinbrush, and Stock Motor length. And After I measured it at work with a micrometer, it's just a little bit larger OD. The Heat Sink from the Motor Uprade doesn't fit, but the stock Yellow Mount does. I just got done Soldering in the 5th cell and all I can say is WOW. I need to get some super glue. I can't even drive it full speed now. All 4 wheels fly right off! Now I just need to figure out where to stuff that extra AAA in my Supra. Right now I have it Taped in front of the spoiler.

I took the motor Appart early today because it was making funny noises. Guess what I found in it? Fascial hair! In a Sealed motor. It also had a bit of rust on the Magnets (polished right off with my Dremmel). Nice brushes in there too. Gold plated silver Fingers, four on each side tightly packed together. I also put a "dab" of lithium grease in the Bushings to keep everything running smoothly. VROOOM Bang right into the wall After all 4 tires flew off it's hard to control those little plastic wheels are like dress shoes on an ice skating rink.
__________________
Loud doesn't = fast.
Import doesn't = quality.
Chrome Doesn't = performance gains
Clear Tailights just make you easier to spot.
My 4 cylinder has 210 Natural aspirated HP is only 2.3 li, and is 15 years old, and it was built right here in the good ol' USA.
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  #11  
Old 12-06-2003, 01:37 PM
Bulldozer Bulldozer is offline
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Hmm, so its really torquey? Hows top speed? and also what gearing was this?
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  #12  
Old 12-06-2003, 11:47 PM
Cyfiawnder Cyfiawnder is offline
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I use a 11 tooth 48 Degree stainless Slot Car Pinion, and the 23 Tooth Red (Drag) gear that came with my Stage 2 motor Upgrade kid. The setup is loud, and I had to find some little washers to put between the motor Mount and the mounting braket to releave pressure off of the gears.

I took the 5th cell off today, mostly because I couldn't store the extra battery under the "Shell" What a big difference the 5th Battery makes. Now the tires don't stretch out even a little bit at WOT (wide open throttle). Oh well, still fast as heck.

When I took the motor appart I forgot to mention: The wire that is wrapped around the rotor (is that what it's called?) Is a bright RED color and not copper orange. Also the Magnets and the Rotor itself are at least 1/4" than the internals of a 130 motor. I didn't measure them But I work with small measurements of parts all day so I've gotten pretty good at eyeing things up. Sometimes I make parts that have tolerences of +or - .0001"
__________________
Loud doesn't = fast.
Import doesn't = quality.
Chrome Doesn't = performance gains
Clear Tailights just make you easier to spot.
My 4 cylinder has 210 Natural aspirated HP is only 2.3 li, and is 15 years old, and it was built right here in the good ol' USA.

Last edited by Cyfiawnder; 12-06-2003 at 11:52 PM.
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  #13  
Old 12-08-2003, 06:09 AM
Cyfiawnder Cyfiawnder is offline
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IT's ALive! ALIVE!

Well because I couldn't leave well enough alone I started tinkering with that 180 Motor and royaly fudged up the brushes DOH!. Then something hit me (Besides chinese food gas.) I wondered if the 180 motor Rotor would fit inside my old MURA Slot car motor can. The Brushes in that had long since gone to poop, but I remembered from my slot car days that mura motors run in revers too. So I put the 180 rotor in that and it fit! Real GOOD! The distance between the rotor and the Magnets is TINY, makes the spin brush motor look loose. So after I found that out I went up transplanted spinbrush motor Bushings into the MURA housing. The Bushings were still good(actual Brass, not zink coated iron like the action motors and SBP motors), and so was the top hat it was just the brushes that were bad. IF you're wondering why I didn't use the MURA rotor and just replace the bushings well it's because the motor is rated for 12volts (slot car tracks are 12-14 volts). So After some Creative soldering (and burning my fingers) I got the brushes just right YEAH!. I gave it a bit of juice and it spun Woo HOO. So i took the wires and resistors of the OLD 180 motor "top hat" and soldered them onto the MURA motor. Diagnosis... It's Alive. This thing has torque out the yin-yang. Doesn't spin any faster (it is the same rotor after all) the magnets are so close the the rotor that it twists super hard when you gun the throttle. The Magnets are also more than twice as thick as the SBP magnets. The only problem is the Mura can is wider than the Stock can size so I had to fab up new mounts. Some hollow metal "hypo" tube .030" OD i believe some more soldering and Off I went. This thing would haul some serious keister with the 5th cell back in the car... if I could only find a place to put it. I was thinking maybe I'll use a "AAAA" battery as the fifth cell instead of a "AAA" bat they are a bit smaller, but still rated at 1.5v alcaline and 1.2v NiMH Rechargable, better than nothing right... maybe I could squeaze 2 "AAAA's" under the hat. I would definatley have to glue the tires on then...
__________________
Loud doesn't = fast.
Import doesn't = quality.
Chrome Doesn't = performance gains
Clear Tailights just make you easier to spot.
My 4 cylinder has 210 Natural aspirated HP is only 2.3 li, and is 15 years old, and it was built right here in the good ol' USA.
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  #14  
Old 12-08-2003, 06:32 PM
Deep Blue Deep Blue is offline
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Posts: 31
Cy, good job with the discovery. I had discussed this on another messageboard for the last 2 months, so I can relate to the ups/down of the install.

Since you have a Supra (same applies on a skyline) you can install a 5th AAA in the rear bumper. The body kit bumpers will need to have the shaft that holds the muffler trimmed off.

As far as motormount spacing, I used 1/8"th thick cuts of silicone hose under both motor mounts so I can adjust the mesh of the pinion by simply turning the screwdriver.

Another issue is the timing in the toothbrush and the beard-trimmers seems to be less than fantastic for an RC car. If you're reaching peak RPM in the first 2-3feet as you were saying, you'll definitely want to go with a taller pinion, or bump timing, because you should rev out to at least 6 feet, even with a 9t. A 13t should take it out to about 13t.

Oh and BTW, the FF180sh (nor FK180 or FF180ph) will not fit in an RSX, due to the short wheel base. And the motor isn't the same as the spinbrush motors.

Hope this helps.
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  #15  
Old 12-10-2003, 01:27 AM
Cyfiawnder Cyfiawnder is offline
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I actually did get one tire to fly off of one of the front wheels. The left wheel got stock on something and wasn't turning so all the power was transfered to the right wheel and the tire spun right off.

The nice thing about the MURA can is that it's open shelled. The top and bottum of the motor are skeletal, not sealed like the ACTIOn motors. So heat comes right out of the motor instead of building up. Without the Body on the car you can actuall feel the breaze created by the motor spinning.

I did try the rear bumper placement using the radioshack single "AAA" holder but it was stopping the rear suspension from traveling. I was thinking of just pulling the "poles" out of the radioshack mount and glueing them (or something) into the rear bumper. The battery will fit back there no problem. But not with the Radioshack holder... I'll try it in a few minutes With the 5th cell I bet it will be "fast as stink." Stink is the fastest thing out there. It's not here, then here then gone just like that... unless your one of the poor unfortunate soals that lives downwind from a suage treatment plant...then it lingers Like the last relative at thanksgiving dinner.
__________________
Loud doesn't = fast.
Import doesn't = quality.
Chrome Doesn't = performance gains
Clear Tailights just make you easier to spot.
My 4 cylinder has 210 Natural aspirated HP is only 2.3 li, and is 15 years old, and it was built right here in the good ol' USA.
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