09-19-2009, 05:45 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 81
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by the way they are no where as pretty as the others I have seen on here mainly because I only have a manual mill and lathe but they do look cool
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09-19-2009, 07:54 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Sherrills Ford
Posts: 113
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Where are the pics are you gonna make some of us wait till Tuesday?
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10-01-2009, 05:14 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 13
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Any news about the alum wheels?
I'd like to get a set or two that I can actually race with
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10-13-2009, 09:18 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 455
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I have e-mailed them last week and suggested a particular style of wheels for the Ferrari F-40. They replied to me the other day saying they'll look into it. They appreciate suggestions and feedback. If there is a style you like, e-mail them with a picture and just ask. You might get it and you might not!
I'm very satisfied with the Countach wheels they made for me!
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Good thing's come in small packages!
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10-14-2009, 08:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jellis
by the way they are no where as pretty as the others I have seen on here mainly because I only have a manual mill and lathe but they do look cool
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Remember Joe. I have a viable solution for the manual part. I would love to get my investment back. I bet that Pedro's wife would love to have it out of the garage too.
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10-14-2009, 03:54 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 118
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kassi
Any news about the alum wheels?
I'd like to get a set or two that I can actually race with
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We just updated the site with the current line up. Still waiting on 2 pics. All are in stock and avaible for purchase directly from Aluma-Tech through the RealTracks site.
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10-14-2009, 04:51 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 455
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The 17F's I got for the Countach are not drivable. I don't know if it's because they are missing the special peg, or if the inside of the rim is too close to the knuckle and something seems to be catching. Rear 18's are perfect. So, when driving the Countach, I have to swap back to the stock wheels.
Hopefully other 17's won't have same issue, although they told me that they were too small to mill out that peg.
I've suggested to them two more styles and hopefully we'll see more options coming soon!
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10-14-2009, 07:49 PM
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TinyRC & Mini-zRacer Fan
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Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Washington, DC
Posts: 2,593
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should be simple to figure out. spin the wheel and look for where it catches.
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10-14-2009, 09:06 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 455
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Yea, I've looked at it and I think it's that the inner diameter is too tight and catches onto the hub/knuckle area. Still, I'm very satisfied with the wheels and looking forward to more options/styles! I have "0" complaints with them! The wheels on the Porsche work perfectly and the car almost feels smoother with them than the stocks.
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10-14-2009, 09:16 PM
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TinyRC & Mini-zRacer Fan
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Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Washington, DC
Posts: 2,593
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thats good info. so the inner surface of the wheel is rubbing the hub causing the wheel to not spin freely, correct? if so, this is important to know as the wheel blank can have the inner surface milled out a fraction of a millimeter, enough to allow free spinning without compromising the wheel integrity. at this size, i wouldn't be to concerned about that.
are the aluminum hubs larger than the plastic ones? we already know from another member that the hole for the wheel lock is not as deep on the aluminum hub. this to can be fixed by cutting the nub short on all the wheels. it really only needs enough to grab hold and not slip.
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10-15-2009, 03:54 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 118
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Thanks for the observations Marco, as you said, Aluma-Tech stated they were unsure if the rims were going to work for you before they shipped. A print will have to made of the stock 17 rim and testing done if the 17s are going to become part of the line. Obviously the nub on the rear of the rim is a tool clearance issue that will have to be addressed with a smaller dia. tool. If you can get a good Macro pic showing the interference it would be helpful. As far as modifying your rims to work, you may want to try chucking it up very, very lightly in a drill press or a hand drill clamped to a bench. For safety you must get the rpm down to around 60rpm. You can then evenly ease the inside corner of the rim where you suspect the interference is. As Arch said the aluminum is very easy to work with. A small jeweler’s file held stationary against the spinning rim should work fine. To help keep the lightly chucked rim from spinning you can put some double faced tape on the rim before its chucked. Be sure there is the same number of layers under each jaw. Also insert the rim flange up against the chuck jaws to prevent the rim from sliding inward when you apply pressure with the tool. And the final warning, be carful of how you place the file or tool. If you don’t have a good understanding of what you are doing you are likely to end up with a file stuck in the side of your face because you came in at the wrong angle, the tool grabbed and got launched at high speed. Again if you can’t get the speed down to around 60 rpm than it can be a dangerous proposition. Good luck if you try it.
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10-15-2009, 04:31 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 455
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I have no problems driving the car with the stock 17's up front. But when I put it on display, I like to put the alloy's on.
I'm not much of a machinist at all, so I doubt I'll want to attempt modifications. Knowing me I'd probably do more damage than good! So best to leave it alone and be happy with what I've got for the shelf.
Since the rear's are very drivable, it's no headache really to swap out the fronts for driving purposes.
It may also be possible that my specific design wouldn't except the milling of the small peg?
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