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  #1  
Old 10-14-2004, 09:32 PM
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MattPaintballer MattPaintballer is offline
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Two Motor Mod

Hello. I was wondering if anybody could point me to some kind of tutorial on how to do a two-motor and a two-cell mod? Also, what is the absolute best motor? I know it's possible! Check this out:




Last edited by MattPaintballer; 10-14-2004 at 09:37 PM.
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  #2  
Old 10-16-2004, 12:13 AM
frizzen frizzen is offline
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How crazy go nuts are you?

There was the mod you "borrowed" pics from, or there are several easier ways to do it.

**Use search function**

Personally, I would go with notching the top of the chassis over the idler gear, then aluminum around the motor cans, and a custom steel contact for the endbells. This puts the motors wired in PARALELL/
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Dual cell battery is the MOST common mod anybody ever did, there are like easily 500 threads on it. Make sure they are same MAh rating. Wire them in SERIES.
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let us know if you need more help than the original topics gave
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  #3  
Old 10-16-2004, 04:15 PM
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Thanks. Is like 4.2 as high as you can go?
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  #4  
Old 10-17-2004, 05:09 AM
bdnunchaku
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4.2Pro is the fastest known to date. However, some sellers in Ebay are bidding a faster motor. They claim to have connections to some pager company that utilizes bit sized motors. Stick with the 4.2pro from toyeast.com (they are in Ebay also under "toyeast").
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  #5  
Old 10-23-2004, 02:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by frizzen Personally, I would go with notching the top of the chassis over the idler gear, then aluminum around the motor cans, and a custom steel contact for the endbells. This puts the motors wired in PARALELL
I did use the search function, and Babelfish doesn't work so well on German to English translating

I'm not sure I understand what you're saying. So I make a notch in the top of the chassis above the idler gear... is the idler gear the one on the axle? Which means I would just basically put it wherever there is room over the axle? What do you mean by "then aluminum around the motor cans, and a custom steel contact for the endbells" ??? The motor cans are the metal things in which the motor's mechanical stuff is, and the endbells are the colored things at the end right? I have no idea what you mean by the aluminum thing, but "a custom steel contact for the endbells" basically means to take a small peice of steel and place it so it touches both endbells? I think? I really and not that mechanically inclined... Still in middle school...
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  #6  
Old 11-04-2004, 04:54 PM
frizzen frizzen is offline
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Making a dual motor:

Check if antenne comes out back of pcb cover, if so reroute that to the front.

You rip off the heatsink (motor clippy thing), place second motor above first in the new empty spot you just made by ripping off heatsink.

Check clearance of gears and notch top section above idler gear (between pinion gear and axle gear) I like a round needlefile for doing this, but a knife or soldering iron work too. and after you're sure everything meshes nicely, has clearance, moves freely and it's all happy you can move on.

I said use aluminum strip (soda can) just because it's easy to bend, gives good electrical contact once you scrape the coating, and just about everyone has access to them. If you've got a nice hot soldering iron, solder the motor cans (shiney 'body' part) together so that they're paralell and the armatures are on the same plane. Roughen the surface, solder won't stick to chrome.

Making a custom shape steel contact thing for the endbell isn't the only way, if you've still got a soldering iron hot, make a thin wire jumper from one endbell contact to the other. BUT it has to be thin enough that your motor in the original place still fits.

Ok, now you can put the motors in and play with how the gears mesh. Ok, now stop it you're having too much fun with that. If your newly made 'motor assembly' doesn't sit level, grab some little screws and install in the holes under the stock motor well, this way you can adjust to put your gears on the same plain.

Now you'll want to do something to make sure your motors stay in place. Use your imagination. Tape, thread, plastic strip... Just remember it's probably got to fit a body.

Charge it up, and go challenge someone else to a "drag race", yours will take them off the line.
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Just make it up as you go, as long as they're mechanically and electrically connected, you can do your own thing. Maybe next time we'll go over making your dual motor chassis into a jacked up monster truck.
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  #7  
Old 11-05-2004, 01:29 AM
bdnunchaku
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Similar to frizzen's mod is shown in the pic. This mod seems to be very easy to do although I've never tried it. With the setup shown, your best bet would be to dual-cell your bit with the zipzap SE batteries which are 10mm dia x 10mm lg. You can order them through zipzaps.com (look for the faq section). You simply split the two batteries by cutting the shrink wrapping in the center, bending the contact so the batteries lie side by side and finally solder wires from the battery contacts to the bit charging contacts (it's easier to solder the wires on the batteries first). The batteries should fit in the open space shown in the pic (between the purple suspension bar and the motor). This is the easiest way to dual-cell a bit. Unfortunately the batteries are only 70mah in capacity, but if you utilize two motors that should make up for it.

In my opinion, dual-celling with a heavier high capacity battery and a high torque motor is the limit in terms of speed for actual racing. Any faster than that, your bit will flip which will pretty much knock you out of the race. But then again, I only use single speed bits. Also, at the very least you need to widen your rear wheels as shown in the pic. Zipzaps have the extra wide wheel kit which will fit the bit chassis, but traction is not so good. The best wheels to glue together are Motorworks wheels (sold at Walmart). They have knobbies which will give you the best traction.

Also, if you widen the rear wheels and your antenna is stiff enough, your car can probably recover by itself if it flips over. I have my car designed where the rear wheels will always make contact to the ground when it is flipped over. I hit reverse and my bit will fly forward and land upright. Dual-celled mosfetted or dual-motor bits are faster, but in my opinion too fast for racing due to their size.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 2motor.jpg (22.1 KB, 155 views)

Last edited by bdnunchaku; 11-05-2004 at 01:37 AM.
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  #8  
Old 11-06-2004, 06:14 PM
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Thanks! I just thought of something though... Okay, the pinion gears on the motors must mesh with the idler gear which must then mesh with the axle gear. If one of the pinion gears is spinning, the other is forced to spin to, at the same speed. Let's take two 4.2 high torque motors for example. Say they kept a constant, perfect 42,000 RPMs whenever they were driven. (Yes I understand this is close to impossible! It's for an example okay? We'll label this speed Z). If Motor A is spinning at 42k RPMs, so is Motor B. Which means both of these motors are spinning the idler gear at X amount of RPMs, in turn spinning the axle gear at Y amount of RPMs. If one pinion started turning faster than the other, the mesh would get all screwed up between the two pinions and the idler, so the pinions are both forced to spin at Z RPMs. No matter what, they can only spin at the speed of Z. Doesn't that mean that dual motors won't add any speed to my MicroSizer?

And also, I have 3 more mods I would like to do. They are all fairly easy, I just don't know what things to cut and where to solder etc. etc. I would like to:

Replace the 45 second charge thing with a 90 second one (I know I have seen this somewhere!)
Reverse the Booster button so normally my MSPro is going full speed, but when I press the button it goes the non-boosted speed. (I read about this on some German Bit Char-G site...)
I would also like to FET mod my MSPro, but I don't know what FET's to use, where to get the FET's.

Last edited by MattPaintballer; 11-06-2004 at 06:18 PM.
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  #9  
Old 11-06-2004, 07:21 PM
bdnunchaku
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The benefit of the dual motor mod is torque. Yes, if you dual cell a dual motor bit, you essentially have two single cell bits driving one chassis. This will obviously give you more torque due to two motors/vs one chassis, but I'm not sure how much improvement you would get for top speed. As I stated before, a dual celled/single motor bit is pretty much as fast as you can go (without constant flipping) for racing on a track.

As far as your other 3 mods, you can find a lot of info using the search engine.
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  #10  
Old 11-11-2004, 04:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by bdnunchaku
Stick with the 4.2pro from toyeast.com (they are in Ebay also under "toyeast").
:/ I've found two websites that sell 4.2's... toyeast.com and another site. I'd rather buy from TinyRC but they don't seem to sell the 4.2's... The reason I'd buy from TinyRC is because I know that Tiny is a reputable site and Mini-ZRacer is reputable, too. They're both sister sites and they're both cool. But toyeast and the other site don't seem to be very reputable. I haven't heard anything good or bad about them, but they both seem to be almost like marketing gimmick/false advertisers... They also seem to be based in Japan and they might be like what I've heard about ########... But the other site seems to have all the things I need - 4.2's, 3.8's, 200 mAh NiMH's, new tires, and Hummer bodies. The only thing they don't have is the Auto Modellista set (which I'll be getting from after Christmas is over (I'm not allowed to buy anything until after Christmas...)

Edit: By the way does anybody know where I can get the Fairlady Z/350Z body? Those look really nice...

Last edited by MattPaintballer; 11-11-2004 at 04:53 PM.
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  #11  
Old 11-11-2004, 07:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by MattPaintballer
By the way does anybody know where I can get the Fairlady Z/350Z body? Those look really nice...
I've seen those in red at tower for two dollars. And yes the MS 350Z body has the Fairlady logo on it. TRU may have it too.
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  #12  
Old 11-12-2004, 09:45 PM
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MattPaintballer MattPaintballer is offline
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Oh yeah another thing is my MSPro has like 5 foot range... I can't even drive it from one end of my billiards table to the other... How can I fix this?
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  #13  
Old 11-12-2004, 11:35 PM
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frizzen, do you have any pics of your heatsink and contact setup for the motors? i have all the cutting done but need help with the mounting.
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  #14  
Old 11-14-2004, 01:01 PM
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I'm pretty sure that speed checker pic is fake, since tthose letters are showing, indicating the run is over. Also, even with that low of a ratio and dual cells, you'd only be looking at 20 mph with fets. The dual motor just gives you a ton of torque, and no more top speed than the same motor in single.
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  #15  
Old 11-14-2004, 01:32 PM
LiLStagg LiLStagg is offline
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dude who said dual cells viper? Li-poly, mosfets, aluminum, its real buddy completly real, you ever hear of Microsash?
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