06-07-2004, 07:20 PM
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TinyRC Pro
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Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 98
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Quote:
Can you blame me for not knowing that you don't need to ground something with BOTH postive and negative connections?
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aight look....
Here's an order of the connections. The things in parenthesis are connected together. Together meaning joined, soldered, or what have you. Note that the (-)'s and (+)'s are terminals to batteries. Terminals are the ends of AA's. The ends are the part at either END of the battery. Not sure where to stop, cuz....nevermind.....here goes nothin'....
(ground to regulator, black wire going to xmod)(-)(+)(-)(+)(-)(+)(-)(+)(red wire going to xmod, input to regulator)
Jesus, why am I still trying? I think there's a support group for this sort of thing.........
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Last edited by Jshwaa; 06-07-2004 at 10:17 PM.
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06-08-2004, 10:46 AM
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I really should change my title...
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Join Date: Apr 2003
Posts: 923
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Ok, I got it.
What you've done is connect the red wire (postive) from the batts to the input pin of the regulator, then connect a wire from the regulator's output to the place on the circuit board where the red wire was going. Then, to ground the motor/FETs, you connected a wire from the ground pin on the regulator to one of the wires to the motor....have I gotten it straight?
Jesus, why am I still asking?
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06-08-2004, 11:09 AM
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Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Va
Posts: 188
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Quote:
Originally posted by charliebrown
Ok, I got it.
What you've done is connect the red wire (postive) from the batts to the input pin of the regulator, then connect a wire from the regulator's output to the place on the circuit board where the red wire was going. Then, to ground the motor/FETs, you connected a wire from the ground pin on the regulator to one of the wires to the motor....have I gotten it straight?
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I just installed my regulator last night I dont know how everyone else installed theirs but I installed mine half way of what you just explained but I grounded the regulator at battery neg. hit 41MPH with 6 cells 7.2v last night after I installed it . hope this helps any.
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06-12-2004, 03:02 PM
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TinyRC Newbie
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Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 2
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what are FET"s?
being a new member, and knowing nothing about chips, can someone please describe to me what these fets are and what they do? also, maybe a breif description what other parts do? and what do all these fet codes stand for let alone mean? thanx a bunch
-a very confused noobie
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06-13-2004, 03:35 AM
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Chief Propeller Head
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Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 269
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Re: what are FET"s?
Quote:
Originally posted by rx7_venom
being a new member, and knowing nothing about chips, can someone please describe to me what these fets are and what they do? also, maybe a breif description what other parts do? and what do all these fet codes stand for let alone mean? thanx a bunch
-a very confused noobie
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this question has been asked a lot. please search the threads for MOSFET and FET. don't post into a long thread as it does a service to no-one. it's better to start a new thraed instead of sending another thread off-topic......
fets are Field Effect Transistors, high performance parts, there are already in the xmod/mini-z but are cheaper versions. replacing these fets with better fets improves yoru cars performance....
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06-14-2004, 07:04 PM
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I really should change my title...
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Join Date: Apr 2003
Posts: 923
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Guys, here are other FETs that can be used in place of neurokinetik's turbo:
NTD110N02R - N Chan MOSFET - www.onsemi.com
IRF7425 - P Chan MOSFET - www.irf.com
ph2t uses these in his Woah Nelly turbo.
Chuckster...
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06-23-2004, 07:03 AM
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TinyRC Newbie
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Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 2
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just wandering
this topic was about IRF4905 or IRL3705 and putting it on xmod
was wandering can it be done same way on mini z?
as in all the diagram and method in putting it together be the same for mini z or is there a slight difference need to be modified?
thanks
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06-23-2004, 03:20 PM
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Perfected Bit Modder
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Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Corvallis, OR
Posts: 303
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let say no , so the xmods ppl will have an advantage over the mini-z..hahahah
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06-23-2004, 08:55 PM
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TinyRC Newbie
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Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 2
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ust wandering why cant it be done?
arnt these car similar?
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06-23-2004, 09:36 PM
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Chief Propeller Head
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Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 269
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mate, it can be done. the guy is just being a ****head.
ph2t.
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06-23-2004, 09:51 PM
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TinyRC Pro
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Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 98
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Yes, the xmod and the mini-z both work on the same principle. Both have an H-bridge configuration of FET transistors to drive your motor in both directions at multiple speeds. Both use PWM to turn the transistors on and off. If you knew which 4 signal lines went to the FET's on a z, you could put the same circuit in it(from an xmod) and it would work exactly the same. This goes for www.atomicmods.com V1 power management board, as well as the whoa nelly and nuero's turbo boards.
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06-23-2004, 11:14 PM
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Chief Propeller Head
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Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 269
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hey Jshwaa, you're always such a nice, helpfull fella....
broken anymore chassis lately? lol...
mates and I had a meetup recently at an outdoor 1/10 scale course. 3 were running nelly's, 1 wasn't.
Only one car didn't break multiple parts that day.....
check it out:
http://www.ausmicro.com/topic.asp?TO...%2D+Discussion
cheers,
ph2t.
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06-24-2004, 04:59 PM
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TinyRC Pro
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Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 98
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Quote:
Have you identified what kind of transistors Q7, and Q5 are? I am tring to understand how these are used, but since I have no idea what kind of transistor, or even type (NPN vs PNP), I am at a loss.
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I'm glad you asked that. Q7 and Q5 are common emitter inverting amplifiers(NPN BJT transistors.....like a 2N 3904) which will 'invert' a high to a low, and a low to a high. The collector of this transistor arrangement is connected to the gate of its corresponding FET. Without them, you will not have the correct logic levels at the gates of your FET's(h-bridge) which will indeed cause your h-bridge to be 'firing' all wrong. You will be directly shorting out your battery through your FET's if/when you apply power to them IF you don't have those particular signals inverted.
If you are applying your own home-made h-bridge, take your signal from the pad which the stock FET's would be soldered to....NOT where IC1 provides the signal to the transistors/FET's(at those resistors you mentioned). If you bypass the transistors and take the signal from IC1 directly(from the resistors), you will have to implement your own inverting method to this signal(common emitter inverting amplifier). If you take the signals from the pads that the FET's would normally be soldered to, you can just build the H-bridge configuration with your own choice FET's and the signals will already have the appropriate logic levels.
This is something that Robert overlooked in his design of his V1 power management board. If you look at his installation instructions, he tells the customer to remove those transistors(Q5, Q7) from the xmod board. He instructs people to do this because the very same type of transistor is implemented in his board design to do the very same thing for you. So he has you remove something that he turns around and sells to you, which is unnecessary. Then he instructs you to jumper the signal from IC1's 4 signal traces directly and connect to his board.
Quote:
I have seen 2 diffrent pictures of your H bridges - one had what looked like a 16 pin DIP IC, and the other used what I think is on the stock controller using 4 resistors and 2 transistors.
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Yes. The later one you described was actually my first attempt at building an h-bridge(that's actually driven properly) for xmods. The one with the 16 pin IC was my latest. There's really not much to say, other than it was cool to do. The IC was there to isolate the signal lines from the higher voltage circuit. It is an opto-isolator with NPN transistor outputs. Neither had given me the performance that I had desired, but the first one was a more or less a failure. It had heating issues like you described and was originally designed to be installed in the roof of the body. This made for very hairy wiring, added weight, and if the signal lines came disconnected, the FET's were toast because the biasing must be maintained at all times.
I have another idea up my sleeve for an even better h-bridge design that SHOULD have minimal power losses due to signal propogation delays and gate driving. Of course, if I told you I'd have to kill you. So I won't tell you. I'm going to wait for the next generation of xmod'ing to come around to even talk about it. I'm sort of out of xmods at the moment, you could say. To be continued till Fall.......
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06-29-2004, 04:44 PM
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Banned
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Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 344
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whats this next generation of xmoding you speak of? also jshwaa i dug into my old printed and found two fets A2037 (says 1G underneith) and C5694 (says 1H underneith) both fets have a hole in the middle of them and have 3 contacts.. are these good fets? and can they handle atleats 14.4V and run a super hot motor?
-thnx
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06-29-2004, 09:01 PM
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TinyRC Pro
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Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 98
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I doubt those are FET's. I have no idea though. Do a google search on them.
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