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  #1  
Old 09-06-2003, 04:09 AM
CaKid58 CaKid58 is offline
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ToyEast 4.2 Motor Probs in Microsizer

I recently bought a 4.2 motor from toy east (not sure if it is pro or perfection). I ran it in my microsizer (red lancer from original microsizer series) and it would seize up/stop after 1-2 seconds. It would be next to impossible to turn the wheels manually, but after some manually applied torque without any power to the motor they would and the motor would "unfreeze". After retrying a number of times with the same result (motor seizing after 1-2 seconds) I gave up. Anyone else had this problem? Any suggestions or solutions would be apprecited. Thanks.
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  #2  
Old 09-06-2003, 09:37 AM
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crazydave crazydave is offline
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Is is a 4.2 or a 4.2 Pro? The 4.2 doesn't work so hot in my Microsizer either, but works great in the Super Bits. I have to use the Pro in the Microsizer.

But it doesn't have a prob with seizing up. That may just be a defective motor. It may loosen up after it gets run for a while. If that doesn't happen, you could try a teeny tiny amount of lube, but not too much, you don't want it getting trapped in the motor, you just want to lubricate that metal bushing. Make sure you remove the excess so it doesn't attract dust.
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  #3  
Old 09-06-2003, 04:29 PM
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have you broken in the motor properly buy running it with no load an it for a couple of charges

doing this often give them more speed and torque because it losens everything up
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  #4  
Old 09-06-2003, 04:33 PM
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Bad Company Bad Company is offline
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Also check the gear on the motor hasn't slid either direction on the shaft and is rubbing or binding, that is what happened to mine once.
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  #5  
Old 09-06-2003, 05:17 PM
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Silent_NightR34 Silent_NightR34 is offline
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yeah or the gears itself binding...check if it has hair or anything on the axel...
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  #6  
Old 09-06-2003, 05:23 PM
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Yugo DSC Maxxer Yugo DSC Maxxer is offline
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You are using the white motor gear right? If not, that's why.
Take off the axel and see if the motor moves then.
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  #7  
Old 09-06-2003, 06:36 PM
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The 4.2's are also just slightly larger and are a bit difficult to get in the car, which does affect the gears binding. I had the same thing happen to me. Take the motor out and try to put it in a different position. See if that helps.
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  #8  
Old 09-07-2003, 01:46 AM
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crazydave crazydave is offline
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Running the motor with no load is a good idea. (If it's the motor, and not the gears or something else)

I just got a 3.8 that wasn't moving, so I took the pinion off and ran it until I heard the RPMs pick up. It's kicking butt now. Didn't do nothing for my 4.2, I'm thinking that motor is a dog.
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  #9  
Old 09-07-2003, 02:45 AM
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You got both a 4.2 King Pro and a 4.2 King from them right?
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  #10  
Old 09-07-2003, 11:33 AM
CaKid58 CaKid58 is offline
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Yes, Newbitowner, I got both motors. I have tried only one, and am sorry to say I havent tried the other motor yet. I will take the thread's suggestions and try some of the solutions to see if any help. I will also try the other motor and then report back on both motors. I appreciate all the good suggestions and help. It may be a day or two before I get back to post. Thanks again all.
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  #11  
Old 09-08-2003, 03:34 PM
CaKid58 CaKid58 is offline
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Here's the final deal. The 4.2 king is a bum motor (just mine, I cant speak to all 4.2 kings). I turned the impeller/shaft manually and can feel the motor rubbing inside the casing. I think that it may be pitched slightly, so that any needed clearance inside the casing is compromised during operation.

The 4.2 king pro is fine. It definetly is fasted than the stock motor (no big surpirse there), but hard to tell how much.

So here is another beef I have with all the faster motors, on hardwood floors and even linoleum, all the car does is spin. So I say the king pro is faster because I am guessing the faster tire rotation is causing the spin outs.

Any suggestions on having bits (or Zips) work on lower friction surfaces (like hardwood) would be appreciated. I am guessing that maybe a small washer (just for weight) taped inside the front section of the car may help.

Anyone have a similar problem and found a solution??

Anyway, one other hope...if these toy east motors fit in ZipZaps like Bad Company has said, then I am guessing that using proportional acceleration may help or eliminate the spin outs since you can start slow, get them going, and then put the petal to the metal once the car has forward momentum.
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  #12  
Old 09-08-2003, 09:45 PM
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Yugo DSC Maxxer Yugo DSC Maxxer is offline
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Try soft Tyres....

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  #13  
Old 09-08-2003, 11:23 PM
Micro S2000 Micro S2000 is offline
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a clean lynoleum floor and stocks with orange axle and green mid gear works great in my shen
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  #14  
Old 09-10-2003, 09:13 PM
ax0n
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I tried with all my might to get traction on my server room floor. I have a MS Pro with the TinyRC 3.8, and a full assortment of MS and ZZ crap to throw at it.

Motors:
With the Dual-Speed MS Pro, there's no reason NOT to run the fastest motor you can, unless you're on a course with twisties and haven't mastered opposite-lock drift cornering yet. If you have a normal MSer, the initial launch can put you into a spin on a smooth surface.

Axles: I also like FAST, so I stick with 8.25:1 Axles (Light Blue I believe for MSer's, or Red for ZZ Axles, both work fine).

Tires: I hate to say it, but the best tire I've found for ultra-smooth sufaces is the "Factory" Tread tires from Zip Zaps.

Additional Stuff: Even with the above setup, my 3.8 will spin out once I switch to "Turbo Blaster" mode. I popped off my body shell and put a quarter under the body near the back. I have a Mitsu Evo shell on most of the time. I don't know if other bodies will have room for a 25 cent piece under there.

After all that, I've had pretty good luck. Accelleration in "normal" mode is sluggish, but once you're in Turbo mode it's all good. I usually go about 3 inches in normal mode to get moving, then switch over to turbo. I also let off the turbo button when making turns.

Anyhow, best of luck. I'll probably be getting the 4.2 motors soon. I've been out of micro R/C stuff, especially MS/ZZ, for so long, I just recently got back into it. My Nikko I-Racer finally bit the dust after a nasty fall off a desk (co-worker driving it) so I'm back to the 27/49 MHz world for a while.
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