11-16-2004, 06:02 PM
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BitPimp
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Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: SoCal
Posts: 45
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everyone needs to look at this, i mean everyone
for all you techies out there check out my thread i posted on my third day fiddling with these things (your gonna want one too)
http://www.tinyrc.com/forums/showthr...threadid=20416
and can you believe this... i just found this site yesterday
http://216.239.37.104/translate_c?hl...3Doff%26sa%3DG
thats my proof it works!! so there, i had to put it to all you guys who were sceptical. "oooh its not gonna work, its been done before"... shut up foo
although you still can be sceptical because im using a completely different method, which is able to use joy sticks. wow i feel so special...
EDIT well i guess the translation doesnt work... just copy the url after you click on it, go to google, paste it in the text field, and it should give you a translate link
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Last edited by nasphere; 11-16-2004 at 06:15 PM.
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11-16-2004, 11:06 PM
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Tool User
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Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Indy, IN, USA
Posts: 442
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How did I just know you were going to post this to rub it in everybody's face who said it wouldn't work? Anyway, if you do it, and do an english writeup on it this is definately a BitScience project.
Though think how many of us will be kicking ourselves for waiting on a sorta propo car like the ZZ-SE to come out, then discover the stock Bit remote electronics only needed a couple mods and it's supposedly able to make the stock car work propo.
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Trying to quench our need for 1/70 scale speed!
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11-17-2004, 11:21 PM
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Tool User
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Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Indy, IN, USA
Posts: 442
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an update incase anybody cares....
nasphere (11/17/2004 4:22:40 AM): i got the stupid thing to work!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! its so unstable though. i have to trouble shoot what it is, but i was right. it is so adjustable! and it keeps the same frequency, but its on for longer, shorter, and it stays on/off. that didnt make sense cause im so exited... yay! its like at 6-7hz. i think a little faster wouldnt hurt. its too freakin unstable... it gets feedback from the output, plus i cant figure out what the hell i can mod for a control (longer/ shorter pulses) i had it, but i lost it. i have all the stuff running off the remote batteries, so you know it'll work.
He's not gonna be around for a while though... nasphere (11/17/2004 7:08:40 AM): btw my mom just told me she is taking the modem back to verizon tomorrow cause she cant afford it so i think this is gonna be the last time i get to talk to you er anyone else.. so imma get a 2mbps cable modem with free internet from a friend for like $100 when i get a job
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Last I talked to him it sounded like an IC-393 / IC-398 or something, then another set of transistors so this is in paralell with the stock remote buttons. The propo control imput was an analog joystick off some video game controller.
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Trying to quench our need for 1/70 scale speed!
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11-20-2004, 05:18 AM
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BitPimp
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Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: SoCal
Posts: 45
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hey thanks frizzen... really appreciate that, she decided to keep the modem cause of her law classes
still no digital camera though... but imma talk her into letting me use it a couple times, just to get the important stuff posted on here
um sorta gave up on propo for a bit, but hey i got ball bearings now.
i have to tell all of you, ball bearings are of the few pricless mods!
the only friction i can feel is from the motor. the more weight you add the better the rolling ratio is, meaning you can put more batteries and it'll roll better than with one.
and oh man dont ever spill super glue in your bearings... its a pain to flush it out!!!this is what i went through: first WD-40, second nail polish remover, third paint thinner, fourth gasoline, fifth i put it in the freezer and just picked at it for a while till i got it all out (worked the best) i guess cold breaks it up?
"THE BEST"
ball bearings, propo, and multi cell mods (i think) will make it faster than most x-mods. lol my friend just got one and imma grind it into the ground when this things done. tee hee... although i still dont have any mosfets yet, but their comming, count on it!
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11-21-2004, 03:12 AM
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BitPimp
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Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: SoCal
Posts: 45
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so... i think i have it, but i need some help.
make a triangle wave oscillator running all the time.
the wave looks like this:
/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\
tap into the signal with comparators, use them as selective filters.
adjust the v ref on the positive side to select up or down on the wave sorta like this:
below the wave input:
_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ (idle/ latched off)
variating the v ref:
___|__|_||_|||_|||| (partial/ oscillating)
above the wave input:
|||||||||||||||||||||||||| (full/ latched on)
for the variable resistor differing two sides, just make a "cap" on the positve v ref for both, what happens is it drives one side up, while making the other side go farther down. (its still off)
the help part is if anyone knows whether a sine or triangle wave is better, my thoughts say a triangle because it offers a smoother curve , but if anyone can point me to anything i missed with sine waves, please do.
sorry.... the project is held off untill tuesday, i have a lot of other "more important" stuff to do, but hopefully by next friday i can have it completed and installed. (dont have a car to try it with yet though, mine got fried in a freak charging accident. teehee!!!)
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11-21-2004, 03:39 PM
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iPod therefore iAm
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Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Las Vegas, NV
Posts: 39
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Wow, that sounds really cool! You could probably race against stock 1/24ths - 1/28ths... and win...
Quote:
Originally Posted by nasphere
hey i got ball bearings now.
i have to tell all of you, ball bearings are of the few pricless mods!
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Do you know where you can obtain ball bearings or how to make them? And about the super-glue thing, you could have tried hot water... (or maybe cold, I can't remember which!) That's how I usually get it off my hands... and how my friend got it out of his hair...
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11-21-2004, 07:32 PM
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BitPimp
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Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: SoCal
Posts: 45
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water is really bad for steel balls in a bearing... so ide rather not.
(i only have 2 bearings)
the bearings i got from an old floppy disk drive, you can find em mounted on the support tower to the brushless motor that moves the heads... they dont look like regular bearings... they have a seem in the middle, and also a rounded side to em.
"mounting em"
first i had to remove the wheel & gear, shave the rough part of the shaft to allow the bearings to slip on, then i took a large empty gel pen cartridge and used it as a housing for the shaft, the bearings i super glued to either end of the tube. then i had to drill out the original axle place, and to hold it in, made a metal "T" shaped brace, the bottom end just slips into the square hole originally for the charger. the top is held on by screws mounted in those holes under the motor. and yah i think thats all i did
"the finished product"
they dont fit exactly tight on the the shaft, but there pretty close... i reduced the play from 1.5mm to about .2mm, plus they probably give you a 50% roll increase!!!
as for the propo, i rigged a toggle switch on the case only for the circuit power, im studying oscillator schematics for the best one on 3 volts, cant build the comparator part yet, because i need the oscillator to tune it to first. oh and did mention this thing is running all on the controller batteries?!?!?
but all this is commin soon!!! im goin speedy on this project with nothing overlooked! so hang in there. btw when i finish it all, ive done the R&D, all you have to do is copy it. (its a lot easier)
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11-22-2004, 09:17 AM
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BitPimp
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Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: SoCal
Posts: 45
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ok... so frizzen and i were talking, he came up with 4wd...
i think im crazy, but i wanna do it, i have the gears, i just cant think of what kind of pivoting axle joint to build in the front, the other thing is the gears take up room, so imma have to find another way of fitting two cells in there, plus the inverted steering setup takes up room, so i have to find a slightly longer, and taller body.
also the front tires have to be the same size as the back, with the same gear ratio
since i dont have a full chassis to work with, its my chance to build a new one around the 4wd and design an all new gear box. this gear collection here must have every pitch of gear you could want... ide be drooling too if it wasnt mine
but i think im gonna finish propo first...
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11-23-2004, 04:38 PM
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iPod therefore iAm
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Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Las Vegas, NV
Posts: 39
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Longer/Taller body... you could get a ZipZap body, chop off the top, and then make a taller top (maybe a wider/longer one too) with modelling puddy. I don't know where to get the modelling puddy, it might be from a hobby shop, but my brother gets it all the time for his Warhammer stuff.
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11-23-2004, 05:46 PM
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BitPimp
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Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: SoCal
Posts: 45
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hey mat, i know you were in the micro flight forum for a while, so maybe you could tell me how to get the magnet to stick to the arm in an actuator, im not sure if you have to sand it first... i made the coil, it works brilliantly with the magnet, but the CA glue keeps breaking off
the reason is if i wanna keep the front end low with the 4wd, i need to move the steering actuator to the back or center of the chassis.
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11-23-2004, 10:32 PM
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BitPimp
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Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: SoCal
Posts: 45
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oh yah... i was fiddling with photoshop and came up with this chassis layout...
this bottom part is the hub assembly
green = rim/ wheel
blue = wheel bearing
red = is attatched to the hub (light blue) and serves as the axle for the bearing
orange = the wheel side cv and is attatched to the spokes on the rim
and sorry for the poor steering linkage drawing, its not really gonna look like that
I changed the cv part in the top picture, its gonna be like this now
i figure if you can get the cv joint in the exact center of the pivot point you can eliminate the need for dogbones... although you would need a huge amount of space in the center of the hub, thats why there are bearings in the front wheels, to eliminate friction from the large diameter.
and yah i kinda gave up on the propo until i get bored with working on this 4wd
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11-25-2004, 05:35 AM
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BitPimp
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Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: SoCal
Posts: 45
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......and back to propo
UPDATE!!!!!!!
well i got the op-amp oscillator to oscillate perfectly, but its a square wave, so im using the other side of the chip as a buffer and filter to make it a triangle wave, then i can hook it up to the comparator channels. also i need to reconfigure the values of the parts cause as it sits, it draws way too much power to be in the controller running all the time off 2 batteries especially with the comparator set up i have.
i lost my cell phone a while ago, so i have yet to make the chargers work with my car, maybe i can charge the controller at the same time... that could be kinda cool, but thats if i get lazy and decide not to change those values.
and with all that i think it will be finished, and maybe in the case by tomorrow!! and at that point imma need a car, and a camera....
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11-27-2004, 05:52 AM
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BitPimp
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Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: SoCal
Posts: 45
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hey i got a camrera to use!!!!
check out these pics
my bearings in the axle, the exremely modded pcb, and the z-car pcb(i moved a capacitor, and yes their facing the same direction!)
the pcb's are facing opposite each other in this one
z-car one is on the left, and the modded one is on the right, btw i have big plans on modding it further, it will work true propo on steering with my propo emulator controller, the wheels will have feedback to the pcb for corrections!!!
and sadly, the oscillator that doesnt work right...
this is my two bodies, an rx pcb, a brushless motor controller, the replacement actuator coil, and the magnet.
thats all the pics so far....
if you want to see anything closer just let me know so i can take more pics, or blow up these for you.
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