How to tell 1st from 2nd generation to 3rd generation SEs.
Update:
The 3rd generation SEs have been out for a while now and it's quite easy to know which ZipZaps SE are 3rd generation...Just look at the part number, the 3rd gen SEs have part numbers that start at 60-7050 and up (60-7051, 60-7053 and up). So, as long as you buy an SE with the part number of 60-7050 or higher, you're getting the newest and best SE!
There is already an ongoing conversation about the issues with the SEs in Azimov’s thread, but I thought this specific topic deserved its’ own thread so we can all work together and possibly find the best solution…
For those unfamiliar with the situation of the SEs, here’s a quick summary
- It appears that newer model SEs have had the steering issues (specifically the extensive ‘stuttering’ when steering) fixed
- Whether the fix comes in the way of a new PCB revision, or a reworking of the wires and resistors and such…Or a combination of both? Is not known for sure.
Now, on to the things to look for to maximize your chances of getting a ‘fixed’ SE:
Visual Clues of Fixed SE
- Date Code: (New info as of Aug, 4th 04)
On the bottom of the package you'll see a 5 digit code, exactly what it means isn't clear...But the last 2 digits are year of manufacture. You WANT the ones marked 02A04, these are the freshest. STAY AWAY from 01A03 and folks have reported that the 01A04s are good, but not as good as the 02A04.
- Part Numbers:
The very first SEs was the Initial-D Savannahs (the White ones). The part number being 60-7026. Subsequent releases have higher model numbers and the most recent sets (Chevelle, Starsky & Hutch Torino, and most notably the GTO) have higher numbers and the GTO is the newest of the set at 60-7040. Your best bet for a fixed SE is to go with the Chevelle or Torino and it’s an almost guarantee that the GTO is good (being that the GTO is the most recently released)
- Steering motor screw and motor endbell
After doing a full internal transplant from 1 chassis to another last night, I noticed that at the bottom of the chassis (directly below where the steering motor is) of my olllllld Savannah, there is a tiny screw that is used to help hold down the steering motor…All of the Mustangs (came out after the Savannahs) also had this screw (at least the ones on the shelf at RadioShack do) and There is NO such screw on the Chevelles, Torinos or GTOs (again, at least not on the sets I looked at on the shelf). It’s quite easy to look at the kits on the shelf to see if it’s there or not as well.
Also noteworthy is that the newer sets also have motors with endbells that look like a big 'blob' of solder that takes up basically the whole bottom of the motor. 'Regular' motors have endbells that look like a shortened 'S'.
I’ve personally picked up 2 Orange GTOs, A Torino and a Chevelle and they’ve all been excellent (1 of the GTOs has uneven steering, but zero stutter and I can rework the gears to even out the steering).
Good luck!
|