02-08-2005, 10:33 AM
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Registered User
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: WF, F'n Texas.
Posts: 54
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This is getting ridiculous.
Lithium issues...
O.K. I bought another stage 2 motor upgrade and have already managed to burn up one of the motors after only 5 mins of driving. What do I have different than ya'll?
04 Cobra
RS Bearings
Suspension upgrade
CF Driveshaft
AWD
JDR Lith Pro Kit
Stage 2 w/heat sink
I keep burning up motors with very little run time. What the hell is up with this?
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02-08-2005, 02:00 PM
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TinyRC Newbie
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Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: new jersey/ pennsylvania
Posts: 5
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i'm having a similliar problem with the 6AAA cell mod. all it seems to do is burn up the electronics and the motor., any thoughts on that either?
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02-08-2005, 02:07 PM
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I have a beach ball...
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Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: St. Louis, MO, USA
Posts: 774
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Are you using the blue motor? Try switching to the red or white motor. It sounds to me like you're trying to put too much current thru them. Beyond that, try getting a 180 or something like that. They cost less than the Stage 2 kit.
__________________
'65 Ford Mustang
All the RS goodies
Nissan Skyline GT-R R34 *DEAD*
Becoming a donor car for:
'04 Ford Mustang Cobra
Soon to be fetted, li-ioned, and all kinds of other goodies.
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02-08-2005, 02:17 PM
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Registered User
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: WF, F'n Texas.
Posts: 54
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Actually I've burned up 2 reds, a yellow, and a blue.
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02-08-2005, 03:41 PM
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ive been running a jdr lithium kit and 6 cell, 4wd, bearings for abuot a year and never burnt out a motor, only thing i dont like is i made my 9 tooth a hybrid but my s2 sb has less torque and top end than my 8 tooth
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02-08-2005, 07:44 PM
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I have a beach ball...
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Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: St. Louis, MO, USA
Posts: 774
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Quote:
Originally posted by Devryn
Actually I've burned up 2 reds, a yellow, and a blue.
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At this point, you should seriously look into a better motor than the stage 2. The NML Stage 11 is a good choice, and will match your battery setup well.
EDIT: I just realized you're using the '04 mustang body, which will not fit a 180 motor. You should consider the Atomic Mods SS 130 Super Stock.
__________________
'65 Ford Mustang
All the RS goodies
Nissan Skyline GT-R R34 *DEAD*
Becoming a donor car for:
'04 Ford Mustang Cobra
Soon to be fetted, li-ioned, and all kinds of other goodies.
Last edited by Murcielago659; 02-08-2005 at 07:47 PM.
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02-08-2005, 08:06 PM
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Registered User
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: WF, F'n Texas.
Posts: 54
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I bought a 180 size motor today, but I need a pinion puller...It's a 180SH...Not sure what it's actually for. We'll see if it will work when my puller comes in. I have setups for short and long chassis'. I just use the stang cuz it's the most beat up. Guess I'll start using my old camaro or skyline.
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02-09-2005, 11:24 AM
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Registered User
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Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Fremont, CA USA
Posts: 20
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Devryn,
The 180 is too long for your medium shaft stang. You're going to have to go with a 130 can motor. 180s are a tight fit with long shaft bodies, the medium shaft cars are not going to work.
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02-09-2005, 12:06 PM
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Registered User
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: WF, F'n Texas.
Posts: 54
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Quote:
Originally posted by Devryn
I have setups for short and long chassis'. I just use the stang cuz it's the most beat up. Guess I'll start using my old camaro or skyline.
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02-14-2005, 08:49 AM
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TinyRC Pro
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Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: nj
Posts: 48
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don't feel bad guys my 6 cell setup burns up my motors all the time... i have to keep on soldering the wires back...this is the conclusion i came after burning like 5 motors...
the motors get really hot with the extra voltage...either ventalate your motors (ventalated bb cans work good) get a better heatsink or just run your car for a few minutes at a time with breaks in between...
also for those who wind there own motors get yourself some silver solder...it doesn't burn up as quickly as the other types of solders do and it can take the vibrations...
www.minizworkshop.com has some good cheap motors too
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04-06-2005, 06:05 PM
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Obsessive Modder
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Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 214
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If I were to take a guess, I'd say it's a combination of you using RS motors, which are built for 4 AAAs in mind, not lithium plus how you're driving. If you have high-tooth gearing, you are geared for high top-end, which is great and all for running on a dyno or massive surfaces (and I happen to have access to a 150x150 smooooth tile floor ), but if you race circuit style, your motor won't have time to get up to speed and thus spending all its time acceleration rather than maintaining speed. It's similar to a regular car in that stop n go will lead to your engine heating up and mileage being in the toilet (in my particular 1x car, my mileage is 50mpg at 70mph but drops to around 10mpg when I accelerate), so in such a scenario, you want torque instead of top-end.
BTW: When you say your motor "burns up," what exactly is going on? I ask because I am building a motor that I'd like to run at VERY high voltage, and I'm curious what the weak link in the chain is.
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04-06-2005, 10:55 PM
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TinyRC Pro
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Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: nj
Posts: 48
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flaming motors!
actually i fixed that problem...I've run 9.6 volts on a a normally hot motor(40 turns 30ga) on a 11t and i didn't burn it.
-i used a ventilated bb can and endbell( a must! ) those darn closed stage 2 motor cans are junk
-spin brush magnets won't break when overheated...neo magnets will stop working properly if overheated!
-if soldering the wire to the comm use high temperature silver solder...it takes the heat and the vibrations without melting
-carbon or silver compound brushes can take the higher rpms and heat not too mention they increase speed and torque
-i cut out windows, etc to help air flow by the motor...but i've heard of people making roof scoops, raising rear end, etc. to increase air flow...
-lastly if you have a ventilated bb can do not put a battery pack over it...
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