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  #31  
Old 03-04-2004, 09:30 PM
Zero-Man
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I just got these assembled over the last 3 evenings and was pushed to make the first shipment to TRC, so I haven't done a complete aftermarket install yet. I have placed 6 cells in with an "L" shaped arrangement saddle pack. I intend to use an old Shredder receiver and either a Flash or Spy, less the case. The ESC will be arranged down the centerline. The receiver will fit between the motor and the servo. These components have been dry fit and they will work. The other option is to shrink wrap the Spy and place on 1 side of the centerline and shrink wrap an XXL and place on the other side, possibly pyramiding them towards the center of the roof. Either way, with the main weight of the batteries laid flat, it should help to keep the CG down.

Ultimately I will use Atomic Mods Li-Ion cells, on order just waiting for the new shipment.

The front Diff gear is fully protected. The cut out is still needed but with the chassis thickness, there is no lower projection of the gear below the chassis. The cut out could indeed be covered with a piece of tape without interference.

Thanks
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  #32  
Old 03-04-2004, 10:37 PM
dolfan03 dolfan03 is offline
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any prices yet? im getting bored w/ my 3 xmods!
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  #33  
Old 03-05-2004, 11:02 AM
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neurokinetik neurokinetik is offline
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Well, this is certainly something to get excited about...
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  #34  
Old 03-05-2004, 11:58 PM
Easymoney Easymoney is offline
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Carbon Fiber, Trc/zero-p Chassis Pics

Howdy,
Man that looks SWEET!!! But one question I have is there or is there not a rear upper plate? The on that covers the top of the rear drive train? I would think that it would flex without it. I know the CF is rigid but the rear lower plate is not so rigid. I think I may get one of these cause they look nuch better and have to function better, but just had that question. Well looks good and later.

Easymoney
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1999 Red & Silver Nissan Skyline R34:
AWD, All RS Hop Ups, Tiny R/C Bearings, GPM rear outdrives and axle shafts
1999 Black Nissan Skyline R34:
AWD, All RS Hop Ups, Tiny RC bearings
1965 Blue Ford Mustang:
RWD, All RS Hop Ups
2004 Blue Subaru Impreza WRX STi:
AWD, All RS Hop Ups
2005 Blue Ford F-150:
Lifted 4x4, All RS Hop Ups
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  #35  
Old 03-06-2004, 09:34 AM
Zero-Man
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Very Observant, Easymoney

Yes the rear does flex minimally. Others have already done the rear plates and since it was not critical to the design for the stock/mod combination, I did not go through the effort to design one. I haven't used one with my stock prototypes but the stock plate could be used if you really think you need it. I tried it; sandwiching it between the battery box and the rear stand-offs, but it raised the battery box by the thickness of the brace and therefore raised the CG slightly. To me, the rigidity of the rear versus the raised CG, wasn't worth it. But you can do it if you think you need it.

We are working on a plate for the rear suspension uprights. This will work for both stock and mod, but it will not connect to the battery stand-offs.
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  #36  
Old 03-06-2004, 01:44 PM
Zero-Man
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Yes, look 6 posts up
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  #37  
Old 03-06-2004, 02:02 PM
Easymoney Easymoney is offline
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Carbon Fiber, Trc/zero-p Chassis Pics

Howdy,
Ok Thanks Zero. Thats what I was wanting to know. Just wanted your take on it. You built it so you would know best if it would be ok to run that way. It would be nice though to have the plate that goes between the uprights though so they don't flex side to side. Also another thing I was wondering. Could this be easily extended for other types of bodies. I'm wanting to build a Hummer H1 XMod and the width is fine but it is like 1/4 inch to short. I was going to extend my stock chassis with Lexan or CF to make up the difference instead of cutting the body(not good at that). But was just wonderin if it would be ok to do that to your chassis. I figure it would be being that it is stronger than the stock one, but like I said you would know best. Well Thanks again for the reply. If you need someone to test such a thing I would be glad to. Wink Wink Nudge Nudge!! Ha. Later

Easymoney
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1999 Red & Silver Nissan Skyline R34:
AWD, All RS Hop Ups, Tiny R/C Bearings, GPM rear outdrives and axle shafts
1999 Black Nissan Skyline R34:
AWD, All RS Hop Ups, Tiny RC bearings
1965 Blue Ford Mustang:
RWD, All RS Hop Ups
2004 Blue Subaru Impreza WRX STi:
AWD, All RS Hop Ups
2005 Blue Ford F-150:
Lifted 4x4, All RS Hop Ups
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  #38  
Old 03-06-2004, 02:07 PM
Zero-Man
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Yeah, you could make an extnsion plate that would bolt onto the chassis at the standard rear motor pod holes, as long as it's 1mm thick, you can delete the use of the motor pod spacers in the kit and your geometry will be just right. Essentially you could make it any length you want in this manner.
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  #39  
Old 03-06-2004, 02:52 PM
Easymoney Easymoney is offline
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Carbon Fiber, Trc/zero-p Chassis Pics

Ok I think I understand what you mean. I will have to look at it when I get it to be sure. Chassis loks great though. Any idea of when they will be hitting the shop?? Well Later

Easymoney
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1999 Red & Silver Nissan Skyline R34:
AWD, All RS Hop Ups, Tiny R/C Bearings, GPM rear outdrives and axle shafts
1999 Black Nissan Skyline R34:
AWD, All RS Hop Ups, Tiny RC bearings
1965 Blue Ford Mustang:
RWD, All RS Hop Ups
2004 Blue Subaru Impreza WRX STi:
AWD, All RS Hop Ups
2005 Blue Ford F-150:
Lifted 4x4, All RS Hop Ups
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  #40  
Old 03-07-2004, 01:32 PM
maxximum attack
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Zero,

Does the upgrade for aftermarket electronics come in the prize to be won for naming it?
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  #41  
Old 03-07-2004, 06:38 PM
Zero-Man
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1st Place will get one
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  #42  
Old 03-07-2004, 09:14 PM
Zero-Man
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Suprbugman,

Weight comparison, 130 grams for stock with awd kit and bearings, no batteries. CF conversion same set-up, same weight. that would be 4 3/4 ounces each for the metrically challenged.

If my front aluminum stand-offs were simply screws and a nut, then the weight would be down marginally. Got to keep the rear stand-offs though.
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  #43  
Old 03-07-2004, 10:14 PM
Zero-Man
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Notes from todays trial on an RCP wide oval.

First the RCP track is simply the best. Set-up and tear down for the wide oval took about 10 minutes. The surface is very tractive and the only downside is the black dust that you get until the track is worn in. Blows off with canned air very easily. Small price to pay for keeping those precious bodies unscraped by hard barriers. The soft rails will train you to keep the line smooth and drive clean.

First, you may need to use the stock rear brace to keep the stock chassis fully locked. The Skyline of one of my buds required the brace. I removed the rear stand-off spacers/retainers and reassembled with the rear brace. The rear locked firmly in place. My Acura did not require the brace. My supra with the aftermarket electronics did not need the brace.

The stock CF chassis conversion will take 30-45 minutes depending on how familiar you are with your vehicle and whether you do bearings and the awd with it. We did front bearings with an awd and it took about 20 minutes.

The AWD with stage 2, 8 tooth, and IC3 batts ran comparitively well against stock mini-z's in the mr2, 1.5 configuration and the mr1. Against the mr2 mm (Enzo), the mini-z took the honors. This is not to say that the standard issues with the X-mod were resolved, just that it was closer than I would have believed, being a long time mini-z racer. The AWD X-mod could use it's drag braking to cut tighter into the corners and carried more speed through the corner. I would like to believe that just the chassis made this possibly but alas, the AWD made it possible. Please keep in mind that all the mini-z's were stock motor powered!! The X-mod steering was still too pushy, not enough throw.

The CF Mod RWD with 4 cell packs, Stock motor, Flash ESC, Shredder RCVR, accelleration seemed faster but the punch out of the corner was dull. Needed the mod motor there, but didn't have a pinion puller to get that funky sized pinion off. Really wanted to run the M-BB mini-z motor that has high rpm and neo mags for high torque. That would have been the true test!! Will have to wait for the new pinion puller. Steering throw had to be trimmed back on my M8, EPA, to keep the tie rod in the right knuckle!!!! Plenty of steering and VERY fast response with the HS-55. Got an AWD kit for the Mod chassis, with the M-BB it will be a very competitive racer.

We were satisfied with the CF chassis conversions. No snakebites and everything stayed rigid.

Last edited by Zero-Man; 03-07-2004 at 10:18 PM.
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  #44  
Old 03-08-2004, 03:54 PM
SuPrBuGmAn SuPrBuGmAn is offline
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Zero - Thanks for the info, you can count on my buying 2-3 chasis.
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  #45  
Old 03-09-2004, 06:55 PM
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i can see by the pics taht the knuckles are protected (something i've been waiting for)
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