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  #1  
Old 10-25-2002, 03:45 PM
Bunta Bunta is offline
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Bunta's 2cell bit (all in stock body!)

Here's a Pic of my version of the 2 cell bit.
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File Type: jpg bit2cellworking.jpg (35.4 KB, 2705 views)
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  #2  
Old 10-25-2002, 03:47 PM
Bunta Bunta is offline
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some said it couldn't be done,,,,,

This is chassis with body on.

-Bunta out

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File Type: jpg bit2cellbody.jpg (38.1 KB, 2678 views)
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  #3  
Old 10-25-2002, 04:41 PM
Bunta Bunta is offline
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instructions,,,

Bunta’s 2 cell Bit mod

Bunta’s 2 cell Bit mod is the only one so far that manages to put 2 cells in a Bit and still manage to put many of the stock bodies on the chassis. This is really great for a “sleeper” Bit to take to battle on the tracks.

Tools you will need:

1) Soldering Iron
2) Small Phillips (+) and Flat (--) screwdrivers
3) Small wire cutters and strippers
4) Small pliers
5) Razor or X-acto knife
6) Rotary tool (Dremel)
7) Small Vise-Grips (OPTIONAL)
8) Project holder (OPTIONAL)
9) Super Glue (certain projects)







Bit 2 cell mod: (Chassis preparation)

1) Remove car body from chassis by un-latching the front first.
2) With a small flat screwdriver (or long fingernail) carefully un seat one corner of the PCB cover. Then slide the other side off. You do not have to break the little tabs.



3) Now the cover is loose, slide the antenna wire though the loop and put the PCB cover aside. Be VERY CAREFUL of the PCB and it’s wires. Notice the little hair thin wires? Those control your steering; do NOT damage any of these wires.
4) Bits have a much tighter battery compartment, the wires are usually correspondingly shorter also, this INCREASES the chances of snapping a steering wire BEWARE! Remove the rear axle, heatsink, and motor.





5) You can remove the motor contacts. This requires that the Idler gear pin must to be removed. With the flat side of a small flat screwdriver push the idler gear pin through the chassis and grab the other end of it with some pliers and pull it through.







6) You can now remove the (forward) motor contact now. It’s the one that attaches to the end of the motor on the side of the car. The (reverse) motor contact needs to be straightened out before removal. WATCH THE STEERING WIRES! This is a good time to shorten the forward motor contact. We want to prevent the contact from sticking out. We need to cut and shorten the contact and then re-solder the wire on to the contact.




7) Both the charging contacts can be loosened by using a small flat screwdriver and pushing the ends towards the front from underneath the car. Use some small pliers to work the contacts loose from the topside. If your steering wires are short and you’ve done all the OPTIONAL steps, the only wires that should be holding the PCB to the chassis should be the thin steering wires. Be careful and tuck the PCB over the front of the car and tape it there with some slack in the steering wires. Don’t get any of the tape onto the steering wires.
8) Get your rotary tool (Dremel) ready. It’s time to make some cuts to the chassis near the battery/charging contacts. Remove the chassis material a little at a time, testing the fit of the battery. Cut both sides left and right. Cut the plastic back until you can squeeze a battery into that half of the chassis. Watch out how far back you go, the plastic gets pretty thin here, and the rear tires might hit the battery. If you need more room, you can get some by removing some of the plastic in the corners of the front of the battery compartment, but it’s only a little you can gain here.




9) After doing the same operation on the opposite side, you can test fit your batteries into the chassis. You are half way there!! It’s time to wire this little bugger up.










2 Cell mod (Battery Layout)

Batteries Wiring: (connector/insulator preparation)




1) For our project car to work, we need a working electrical circuit. All batteries have a positive and a negative terminal. With the batteries shoved into the chassis, we can see where we need to make some connections.





2) I personally don’t like to solder onto a battery, you can buy batteries with solder tabs already on them if you like. I prefer to make small battery contacts out of things in my junk pile. If these materials are all used up, I can use un-insulated electrical crimp connectors and a short bit of wire. This way I can easily change my batteries, although I never had to yet.














3) For Bits we need to make some new battery contacts, and some new charging contacts. The charging contacts are the original ones modified by snapping off the vertical parts. We then glue these charging contacts back into position with some super glue.



4) The vertical parts that were snapped off will become the battery contacts.



5) Now the batteries and wires are all connected as they should be.
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  #4  
Old 10-25-2002, 08:31 PM
VDOGG VDOGG is offline
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Very nice dude!! Great instructions too! How much better does the car perform now?

-Vince
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  #5  
Old 10-25-2002, 09:01 PM
Bunta Bunta is offline
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Thanks VDOGG!

My little car is really fast now! A 1.6 motor from ZZs performs well, but the 2.4 yellow NOS motor is really fast. The generic red/yellow motor out of my panther is the fastest though. (so far)

I have pics to go with my guide,, but I don't know how to get them all posted. There are alot of pics with detail text and explanations.

Can anyone tell me how to post these pics too?

-Bunta out
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  #6  
Old 10-25-2002, 09:07 PM
VDOGG VDOGG is offline
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Have you tried the "turbo" ZZ motor yet? For some reason, its way faster than the NOS in my bit.

-Vince
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  #7  
Old 10-26-2002, 12:13 AM
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DesertJedi DesertJedi is offline
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I'm sure there's a way to post the pics...and I'd love to see them.

Child of the TV Generation
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  #8  
Old 10-26-2002, 12:28 AM
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QFM Racing QFM Racing is offline
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great job!

Bunta,

Excellent job! Just had to mention though that this mod was already done some time ago (not by us). Heres a pic that was sent to us back in August.

QFM Racing
QuestForMadness.com
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  #9  
Old 10-26-2002, 12:46 AM
Bunta Bunta is offline
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didn't see that one around,,,,

Oh, thanks for the heads up.

I haven't seen that one before. Trust me I've been lurking and looking.

-Bunta out
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File Type: jpg right cut 2.jpg (37.7 KB, 2540 views)
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  #10  
Old 10-26-2002, 01:51 AM
nMotion96 nMotion96 is offline
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here are some pictures of my 2 and 3 cell bit that i done awhile back, i still haven't taken any pic of my 3 cell zip zap i'll post them when i get them

http://www30.brinkster.com/xsboost94/bit.html
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  #11  
Old 10-27-2002, 03:40 PM
PhillyB PhillyB is offline
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yeah i did that also - same exact way but i got mine from someones sleeper idea - only thing is i cant get the PCB cover back on at all even with some trimming - so im runnin with some 200mph duct tape lol - its too fast with a 3.8 and orange gears - did the 4 cell charger and i get around 6-8 min with a 2 min charge - used two 120mah nimhs - im thinkin of modding my dB car - doin the two in the chassis, one in the cab and two in the bed of the truck - have a wheelie demon - the rx7 (dual cell) handles great with soft tires from microsizer set up front with stock kit tires in rear - a little bit of driftin - also shaved a gram off the chassis with a drill bit in a few non stress areas
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  #12  
Old 10-27-2002, 09:32 PM
RacerDeX RacerDeX is offline
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Is thier an easer way then sodering? ( I mean sodering the liuttle wires ) my hands are too shaky ) whats your best advice bunta?
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  #13  
Old 10-27-2002, 11:43 PM
PhillyB PhillyB is offline
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i dont have the best hand control either - so when i was soldering a chip for my PS2 i bought a hobby clamp that has a heavy metal base and two movable alligator clips - also has a magni glass but i dont use that much - works great on these little cars
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  #14  
Old 10-28-2002, 12:02 PM
Bunta Bunta is offline
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Hi everyone!

Well I agree with PhillyB about the hobby clamp thing. This handy dandy tool will hold the really small steering wires in whatever postition you need to solder them. I also find that the little wires stick better if you have the insulation burned off and a little solder on the tips already. Smear some solder onto the end of the steering wire before you try to connect it!

As for this 2 cell mod, you don't need to disturb the steering wires. If you are hesitant to solder the regular wires,, well you just need some practice on some scrap pieces of wire. A good soldering iron with fine tips helps alot too.

Perhaps the ZZ 2 cell mod is better for you,, there is much less soldering and the battery compartment is huge! You can even cram in 3!

-Bunta out
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  #15  
Old 10-28-2002, 05:02 PM
JaMeZzZ122 JaMeZzZ122 is offline
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wow...niceness....gj and mad props...any one do 4 yet, its probably not possible to have the battery inside but have 3 in adn 1 out is good...ppl would think it's a dual battery and find out there are 4
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