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  #1  
Old 04-28-2004, 07:33 PM
fastskyline3 fastskyline3 is offline
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Question sealed end belll 180

i found this sealed 180 size motor on towerhobbies.this
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  #2  
Old 04-28-2004, 07:40 PM
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will that fit the xmod without any further mods?
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  #3  
Old 04-28-2004, 07:44 PM
fastskyline3 fastskyline3 is offline
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i dont know what the amp pull is on this.it will not fit on the rsx too short of a chassis.
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  #4  
Old 05-06-2004, 04:05 PM
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it'll fit in the supra and skyline
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  #5  
Old 05-28-2004, 08:19 PM
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I'm looking for something that'll take 21 volts. Will this?
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  #6  
Old 06-16-2004, 03:57 AM
jamiekulhanek jamiekulhanek is offline
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21 volts is just stupid, higher voltage doesnt always mean more power, just like a 9.6v ratshack car compared to a 7.2 v 1/10 car. Go for ph2t's turbo or nuerokinetic's, if ya dont have one, and i'm guessing you would.

Even though i said it was stupid, i bet you are the first to give it a go, good luck, but i'll say you could halve that voltage and use a lower turn motor to get similar power and much less weight.

What batteries are you using to get 21v?? Please dont tell me you are using 7 3 volt lithium watch battery type cells.
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  #7  
Old 06-16-2004, 01:03 PM
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I'm using 5 AA sized li-ons from www.slavin4u.com/lithium.html . I also feel that it is not stupid, and I don't think a 2 li-on car with an amazing motor could stay with it.
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  #8  
Old 07-03-2004, 09:41 PM
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yes it could. what motor are you running. if your running that setup with a low turn modified motor you're probably right. but a NIMH 6 cell with the a great motor and right gearing could also keep up with it. you need to post everything that your car has if you want people to tell you if you're right or not.
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  #9  
Old 07-04-2004, 12:47 PM
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viperdout viperdout is offline
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Soon to be running a 65 turn (stock) MRS4 motor, or if that is not fast enough, I will upgrade to a 45 turn MRS4 upgrade motor.
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  #10  
Old 07-16-2004, 08:52 PM
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well if u would read his sig u wouldnt have had this problem, which is what he prolly expected u to do.... but this car is probley going to be sick viper... have u seen the 65mph mini-z somewhere on the net? he has cracked like so many chassis because of the speed of the car.. just a little warning, and u better upgrade the joints and lube all the bearings and opening so u dont get any un-sightly melted plastic....
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  #11  
Old 07-17-2004, 10:51 AM
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viperdout viperdout is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by dietryin
well if u would read his sig u wouldnt have had this problem, which is what he prolly expected u to do.... but this car is probley going to be sick viper... have u seen the 65mph mini-z somewhere on the net? he has cracked like so many chassis because of the speed of the car.. just a little warning, and u better upgrade the joints and lube all the bearings and opening so u dont get any un-sightly melted plastic....
Whose sig? Yes, this car is going to be sick. I am well aware of it. I also feel that I will not crack many chassis parts as a Z because the xmod has a lot more material used, and the Z was designed to be as light as possible, yet still able to take 30-35 mph impacts. All joints are upgraded and I am going to dry out the stock RS bearings (just as good performance, yet no dirt sticks). This car has been in my mind since January, and was started around April. The batteries must stay away from heat, so I am going to glue the bumper on, remove all the studs in back, and I will fit the AA holder in back. I am slightly upset because solder just simply won't stick to the cells. It actually I think is a little better because I'll save on connectors. The wires are all upgraded, and the whole system can handle up to 25 volts, therefore, I could not run 6 AAs (4.2*6=25.2).
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  #12  
Old 07-17-2004, 06:59 PM
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your sig lol, i was talking to everyone else who was asking questions n other stuff about the car when everything they asked was in ur sig, good luck and one of my cars is under the thred "yay! my 510 is done" go check it out, and also have u ever worked with bondo?
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  #13  
Old 07-17-2004, 08:33 PM
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viperdout viperdout is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by dietryin
your sig lol, i was talking to everyone else who was asking questions n other stuff about the car when everything they asked was in ur sig, good luck and one of my cars is under the thred "yay! my 510 is done" go check it out, and also have u ever worked with bondo?
I've worked with modelling putty, but not bondo. I'm not too good at it, but I work hard at it and come out with an ok result. I still can't understand what you're saying. To whom are you talking to? Could you type in sentences?
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  #14  
Old 07-17-2004, 10:42 PM
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No, i cant type in sentances, it reminds me to much of school. Ok i will, i was talking to the people, farther up. Who said stuff about the car like: "i hope ur not doing that with AAA's" and whoever it was edited it. i think? Well anyways, good luck on ur project. My current project is under the post in the gallery section, "Yay! my 510 is done".

_Jay

Yay! school time at tinyrc!
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  #15  
Old 07-18-2004, 09:51 PM
jamiekulhanek jamiekulhanek is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by viperdout
I also feel that I will not crack many chassis parts as a Z because the xmod has a lot more material used, and the Z was designed to be as light as possible, yet still able to take 30-35 mph impacts.

I am slightly upset because solder just simply won't stick to the cells. It actually I think is a little better because I'll save on connectors.

The wires are all upgraded, and the whole system can handle up to 25 volts, therefore, I could not run 6 AAs (4.2*6=25.2).


Oh god.........I am guessing you don't own a Z, right?? They are way stronger than XMODS.


If you cant get the solder to stick, you ain't doing it right.

Each surface (wire and battery surface) must be heated in order for the solder to stick, what you are doing is a cold solder joint, or dry joint, where there is a layer of flux under the solder. Meaning it has not bonded. When the cell surface is hot, the solder should 'flow', not go into a ball sitting on the surface.

You need a hotter iron or try heating the cell for a bit longer.

Ideally you need an extremely HOT iron for soldering cells, as it means the job can be done quickly without dmaging the cell from heat.

I hope you realise that those lithium cells aren't 4.2 v.... They may read that when they have been charged and arent being discharged. If you measure them under load they will only be around 3v each, or 18v for 6 of them.


Just a few tips to help.....
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