03-13-2007, 05:55 AM
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Registered User
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Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 134
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LIT McT
Mini-Z LIT CB
• 27MHz FM BET Super Narrow Band
• ICS programmable digital steering and throttle
• 3010 Mosfet H-bridge motor driver
• 3004 Mosfet powered steering servo H-bridge
Ball Bearings
HP Aluminum Rear Knuckles
HP Aluminum Wheels
HP Daytona 40 degree tires
HP Aluminum Shocks w/ TheSteave grease dampening mod.
Modified battery compartment capable of holding up to 11x21x44mm battery packs.
BRP Classic Hauler Body
High points: Very responsive, navigability faster than the stock CB, with ultimate digital steering control and programmability.
Low points: Would choose Atomic shocks over the HP, even though the LIT CB is affordable at approx. $75 radio compatibility is limited and ICS hardware is expensive.
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03-13-2007, 12:24 PM
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Administrator
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Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 3,729
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BRILLIANT!!! What TX are you using?
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03-13-2007, 07:11 PM
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Registered User
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Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 134
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I suspect that there is a good chance the LIT CB might just work with any FM 27MHz radio just haven't had a chance to try. I was using a Helios but am playing radio round robin so am just using the KT-7’s that came with the LIT and/or the Mini-Z boat until I decide whether I want the EX-10 back or to pick up something else. The Helios was nice but not the permanent replacement for my old M8 I was looking for.
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04-11-2007, 11:34 AM
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Registered User
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Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 2
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nice, i love the body with matching rims.
looks like this would be fun!
can you send me a link to the site who makes that program? and i assume an esc for it.
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04-11-2007, 02:24 PM
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Registered User
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Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 134
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The program can be downloaded from KoPropo Japan, no English instructions yet.
http://www.kopropo.co.jp/html/supportdownload.html
The ICS cables to go with it can be purchased from any KoPropo dealer.
The Mini-Z LIT CB can be purchased from TinyRC.com.
Wiring
Last edited by LBRC; 04-11-2007 at 10:19 PM.
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04-13-2007, 11:48 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 3
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Hey LBRC, I love your project. I love it so much I think I'll try it myself. Is this what I need to interface the LIT board with my computer? It seems expensive, do you know where I could find one cheaper?
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04-14-2007, 12:36 AM
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Registered User
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Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 134
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You won’t be disappointed, even without the interface it’s a great option, but like the USB link for the Mamba25 it’s even better with it.
I use the male to male servo lead and the USB adapter form this kit http://www.shopatron.com/product/pro....1052.56.0.0.0
although the serial port adapter should also work. In fact if I had that one I could find which pins are needed for the serial port and make a cable for a fraction of the price, makes me wonder if one of the manuals shows the pin configuration.
Here’s my latest addition to this car, first I added an Atomic BB motor, it worked great even allowing me to use the 350mAh LiIon pack with a 49T slipper gear and 14T pinion without overheating the LiIons, but then I noticed that even though the Atomic BB didn’t have ball bearing it’s end-bell could be modifid to accept them, unlike the stock motor. So I BB modded an Atomic BB and gave it a try, the result is nothing less than amazing, and doubly so in this car.
Last edited by LBRC; 04-14-2007 at 12:39 AM.
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04-14-2007, 12:55 AM
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Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 3
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Awesome.
So the Atomic BB can I bought from thetoyz.com doesn't have a bb in it?
Actually I'm having a bit of a problem with the Atomic BB can and this battery pack. It'll run fine until I stop or go in reverse then forward, it'll shut off. I have to disconnect the pack, wait a minuet or two, plug it back in and go, but it does the same thing. There's no binding in the tranny. Problem with the cutoff circuit? I bought this pack because I'm still a noob when it comes to li-po.
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04-14-2007, 02:05 AM
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Registered User
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Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 134
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Unfortunately your Atomic BB does not have ball bearings but it should still be drawing less current than the stock motor and consequently be better with that underpowered LiPo than the stock motor, possibly a little carbon buildup on the commutator nothing that a drop of commutator cleaner and slow low voltage break-in would cure (please no watter). Also it's still a good little motor even without ball bearings for ~$11+shipping.
Yes you will have problems with that LiPo pack, most of the 160 LiPo cells are rated at 5C max, so 5C x 160mAh gives you a max current delivery of 0.8amps, even at 10C it’s only 1.6amps a 160 would need to be rated at 15C minimum to be of much use in a Micro-T. Sure LiPo’s don’t have poly fuses that shut the current down like lithium ions do but there are still limits to the current they can give, especially low current LiPo’s made to be used in cell phones and I-Pods. Add to that the battery cutoff, and every time you overheat/overload the pack you need to give them a break until they recover their voltage. BTW the battery cutoff on the pack is set so low that it’s virtually useless anyway.
I wouldn’t recommend anything less than a 10C continous 250mAh or 15C 200mAh LiPo pack for a Micro-T even the proposed Losi Micro-T LiPo might be a pore choice if it’s not rated for at least short bursts at 20C since it’s only a 180, but then they’re new when it comes to using LiPo’s in small RC cars too. Also you don’t need or necessarily want a battery cutoff in a battery pack itself for an RC car, it does very little good and since it can install a false sense of confidence can in some cases even cause harm, especially if it’s the wrong type. For RC car applications sure it’s nice to have one in the ESC but in a Micro-T it’s hardly needed since all you have to do is remember to stop an charge your battery when it starts to slow down and remember to unplug it when not in use. In my opinion the most important thing to consider when using small or large lithium batteries for RC applications is to invest in a good charger preferably something like the Duratrax Ice or Electrofly Triton if possible since their voltage displays will be more useful than the cutoff, if not at least get a small pocket voltmeter which is also of more practical use than the cutoff since with very little effort and time you would be able to say “yep at 6.5v my car slows down this much so I now know when to charge it.”
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04-14-2007, 02:13 AM
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Registered User
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Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 3
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Thanks for the help. Looks like I'll be making my own pack and invest in a good charger.
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