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  #16  
Old 03-04-2004, 08:22 AM
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vtec vtec is offline
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by caps I meant capacitors. So yeah i meant that brown thing and black thing that are attached to the motor.
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  #17  
Old 03-04-2004, 08:27 AM
Rez Rez is offline
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I have a small video of my car with the Orion motor, but I don't have a host for it.
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  #18  
Old 03-04-2004, 10:53 AM
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Last night I decided to take the plunge and attempt to remove some of the windings on my TO motor. Well, I can't even get past removing the endbell because the metal tabs are seemingly impossible to bend because of their small size. They are wayyyy harder to bend than the ones on a 130 motor which are relatively easy to bend. Anyone have any tips on how to go about doing this?

Basically I wanted to take 10 turns off the TO 180 motor to get some higher rpm's. As far as I know, 10 turns is the maximum you can take off without having to upgrade the stock FETs.
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  #19  
Old 03-04-2004, 11:34 AM
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neurokinetik neurokinetik is offline
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I actually don't even try to bend those tabs. I use a tiny file and remove them completely, then I solder the endbell back on when I am done.
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  #20  
Old 03-04-2004, 01:53 PM
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It's super useless!
 
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Are you telling me that the $15 dollar Stage 2s are worthless now???

Ahhhhhhhhh!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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  #21  
Old 03-04-2004, 01:56 PM
Rez Rez is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by d00kie
Are you telling me that the $15 dollar Stage 2s are worthless now???

Ahhhhhhhhh!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
They're a good source of pinions.
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  #22  
Old 03-04-2004, 04:39 PM
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neurokinetik, thanks for the tip. I'm going to just file the tab off with my dremel when I get home tonight. So in your experience, the solder holds the enbell onto the can well enough? Any long term issues?
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  #23  
Old 03-04-2004, 05:21 PM
SuPrBuGmAn SuPrBuGmAn is offline
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There shouldn't be any longterm issues, and hell, its much easier to melt the solder and remove the endbell than it is to fight with those damned little tabs.
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  #24  
Old 03-05-2004, 10:03 AM
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neurokinetik neurokinetik is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by Rez
They're a good source of pinions.
So are the Stage 1s, and they are cheaper.
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  #25  
Old 03-05-2004, 11:40 AM
Rez Rez is offline
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Well, yeah, but I mean, if you got em layin around anyway...
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  #26  
Old 03-08-2004, 07:03 AM
Rez Rez is offline
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Thanks for the host. I'll try to get another video in a larger space. That's my office at work, so I can't just drive it around the hallways indescriminately
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  #27  
Old 03-18-2004, 09:48 AM
eternaldragon eternaldragon is offline
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I just thought I would say I run a sb-hybrid motor and it runs fast and strong. It does not run hot at all and it never lost its torque and it beat an rs stage 2 right off the line. But I did do a wet brake in if that makes a difference or not I don't know.
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  #28  
Old 03-18-2004, 12:45 PM
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I will have to say that the combination of the Team Orion Elite Micro motor, a 10-tooth pinion, AWD, 5 cells, and Sluggbug's carbon fiber driveshafts is unbelieveable.

I received Slugg's driveshafts a couple of nights ago and was impressed with the T.O motor beforehand. Off the line torque was great and top speed was reached rather quickly. After putting in the carbon fiber driveshaft, the car has a whole new life! Solid drifting on plush carpet with slicks and AWD, a 2-3 second 4-wheel spin from takeoff on the carpet...this thing is unreal.

If you're on the fence as to which motor to get, I say go for the extra little bit of money and get the Elite Micro. Then, get in touch with Sluggbug and order his carbon fiber driveshaft set. You won't be sorry that you did, believe me!!
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Red Supra/New Beetle RSI, AWD, Full Bearings, Team Orion Micro RS4 Stock 180 (10 tooth), Team Orion Micro RS4 Stock 180 (20-tooth), Carbon Fiber Driveshaft by Sluggbug, Metal Lock Nuts, Lithium Ion batteries from AtomicMods.com.
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  #29  
Old 03-19-2004, 08:15 PM
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I'm not a pyro, really.
 
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Quote:
Originally posted by newbitowner
BTW, I have 1 set of st2 RS motors, but they're starting to wear out. All but the white motor is squeeking. I only run 1 car with 6 cells outdoor so I only need 1 good motor. The TOS motor seems to be the right motor for me. It lasts long and is fast.
well i can help you with that. first water dip it. dip it with 2 AA/AAA attached to it. until they die. warm water works. then use WD-40 or Slick 50 1 Lube and spray the entire inside of the motor with it, using the hole under the pinion gear. then lube the bushings on each end with some sort of oil. dont use the WD=40 or the 1 Lube.
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