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  #16  
Old 11-21-2002, 04:26 PM
payaso payaso is offline
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You can't mix nimh and nicad batts... Don't do that mod..

use the same batts.


silla
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  #17  
Old 11-21-2002, 06:45 PM
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Best to use the same cells in a dual batt mod. The ZZ uses a 100mah NiMH (i think) and the bit uses a 50mah NIcd.

Yes a dual cell ZZ would beat a stock bit or booster bit.
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  #18  
Old 11-22-2002, 01:13 PM
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RebellionInc RebellionInc is offline
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i guess i'll wait untill i get my mod from minircmod on ebay i just bought it a few minutes ago... oh by the way i tried the two batteries and they work but only on the charger
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  #19  
Old 11-25-2002, 01:15 PM
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Namuna Namuna is offline
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Well, after reading a lovely 700 page book (Basics of Electricity)...It is now clear that my method for testing the current was flawed.

For PROPER testing of current you MUST put the Multimeter IN-SERIES on the circuit to be tested and the load MUST be present as well...I was testing without the load (Motor).

Someone was nice enough to email me a simple, but ingenious way to test for current...Which is to simply use a non-conductive thin piece of plastic (easily attainable by cutting a slim piece of plastic from a 2liter soda bottle)

Once you have the 'shim', place it between the contacts of the motor and the power plate and then attach your Multimeter on either ends and THEN press the forward/reverse button to send power through...At that point you can get the correct reading.

Here's an illustration:

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  #20  
Old 12-14-2002, 01:16 PM
FMZPLAYER1 FMZPLAYER1 is offline
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You'd also get different current readings, depending on how much load the motor is under. If the car is off the ground, and the wheels spin free in the air, the mA's will be very low, if you stall the motor (stop the wheels with your fingers), that should give you a good reading of the motor's max current draw.

The steering coils pull a fair amount of current too, (havent actually measured), but if you drive in a circle a lot, the run time gets cut nearly in half. I think the motor probably draws the same, or less current than the steering coils do, (when the car is just "cruising" and not climbing, or just starting)

I'm going to try an indirect measurement of the current, with the car on a slow charge platform, with the battery at minimum charge. The ammeter will be in series with the charger, so there will be a constant current already going to the car.

Running the motor, or the steering will cause the current to increase (this test will only work on a with a battery that is almost out of charge,so it doesn't have the chance to store up much charge and delay the current readings) It will act more like a capacitor when it's in this state.
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  #21  
Old 12-14-2002, 07:59 PM
FMZPLAYER1 FMZPLAYER1 is offline
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Current measurements

Here's what I got: (Z-car with 2.2 motor)

steering coil ~50mA
motor free run~75mA
motor cruising~95mA (approx)
motor stalled~150mA
motor stall+steering~220mA
cruise+steering~145mA

Used a "C" cell in series with an ammeter (DMM 10A range-for low resistance) There was a very low charging current (30mA) from the fresh C cell thru the ammeter, into the car. This current will barely charge the battery, and running the car motor or steering drains this charge in a few seconds. So the readings would be low, then climb up as the remaining charge depleted.

Had to subtract the 30mA from my original readings to get the above results (ie steering coil result was 80ma-30ma =50mA)
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  #22  
Old 01-30-2003, 08:33 PM
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mini rc man mini rc man is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by Namuna
Well, after reading a lovely 700 page book (Basics of Electricity)...It is now clear that my method for testing the current was flawed.

For PROPER testing of current you MUST put the Multimeter IN-SERIES on the circuit to be tested and the load MUST be present as well...I was testing without the load (Motor).

Someone was nice enough to email me a simple, but ingenious way to test for current...Which is to simply use a non-conductive thin piece of plastic (easily attainable by cutting a slim piece of plastic from a 2liter soda bottle)

Once you have the 'shim', place it between the contacts of the motor and the power plate and then attach your Multimeter on either ends and THEN press the forward/reverse button to send power through...At that point you can get the correct reading.

Here's an illustration:


i got same book
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  #23  
Old 11-30-2007, 08:45 AM
andre andre is offline
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Cool new to this

Hey guys
I have been reading all the messages for you guys for a couple of days now, and i finally placed an order on line for my micro's found a deal for about a $100.00 i get 24 cars. do you think that is a deal? Im planning on startin track design now. any suggestions?
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  #24  
Old 11-30-2007, 08:46 AM
andre andre is offline
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Cool new to this

Hey guys
I have been reading all the messages for you guys for a couple of days now, and i finally placed an order on line for my micro's found a deal for about a $100.00 i get 24 cars. do you think that is a deal? Im planning on startin track design now. any suggestions?
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  #25  
Old 12-01-2007, 04:51 PM
minizzs minizzs is offline
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yes

that is freaking awsome got 9 for 40 and yours is much better offer
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  #26  
Old 12-01-2007, 04:56 PM
minizzs minizzs is offline
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and

id make a fuji track with possible mods but make it realy big a 8 wide (a half a meter)
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