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  #1  
Old 07-26-2004, 03:44 PM
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How to tell 1st from 2nd generation to 3rd generation SEs.

Update:
The 3rd generation SEs have been out for a while now and it's quite easy to know which ZipZaps SE are 3rd generation...Just look at the part number, the 3rd gen SEs have part numbers that start at 60-7050 and up (60-7051, 60-7053 and up). So, as long as you buy an SE with the part number of 60-7050 or higher, you're getting the newest and best SE!

There is already an ongoing conversation about the issues with the SEs in Azimov’s thread, but I thought this specific topic deserved its’ own thread so we can all work together and possibly find the best solution…

For those unfamiliar with the situation of the SEs, here’s a quick summary

- It appears that newer model SEs have had the steering issues (specifically the extensive ‘stuttering’ when steering) fixed
- Whether the fix comes in the way of a new PCB revision, or a reworking of the wires and resistors and such…Or a combination of both? Is not known for sure.

Now, on to the things to look for to maximize your chances of getting a ‘fixed’ SE:

Visual Clues of Fixed SE
- Date Code: (New info as of Aug, 4th 04)
On the bottom of the package you'll see a 5 digit code, exactly what it means isn't clear...But the last 2 digits are year of manufacture. You WANT the ones marked 02A04, these are the freshest. STAY AWAY from 01A03 and folks have reported that the 01A04s are good, but not as good as the 02A04.

- Part Numbers:
The very first SEs was the Initial-D Savannahs (the White ones). The part number being 60-7026. Subsequent releases have higher model numbers and the most recent sets (Chevelle, Starsky & Hutch Torino, and most notably the GTO) have higher numbers and the GTO is the newest of the set at 60-7040. Your best bet for a fixed SE is to go with the Chevelle or Torino and it’s an almost guarantee that the GTO is good (being that the GTO is the most recently released)

- Steering motor screw and motor endbell
After doing a full internal transplant from 1 chassis to another last night, I noticed that at the bottom of the chassis (directly below where the steering motor is) of my olllllld Savannah, there is a tiny screw that is used to help hold down the steering motor…All of the Mustangs (came out after the Savannahs) also had this screw (at least the ones on the shelf at RadioShack do) and There is NO such screw on the Chevelles, Torinos or GTOs (again, at least not on the sets I looked at on the shelf). It’s quite easy to look at the kits on the shelf to see if it’s there or not as well.

Also noteworthy is that the newer sets also have motors with endbells that look like a big 'blob' of solder that takes up basically the whole bottom of the motor. 'Regular' motors have endbells that look like a shortened 'S'.

I’ve personally picked up 2 Orange GTOs, A Torino and a Chevelle and they’ve all been excellent (1 of the GTOs has uneven steering, but zero stutter and I can rework the gears to even out the steering).

Good luck!
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  #2  
Old 07-27-2004, 01:27 AM
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Hah, you are absolutely right! I think you have something here. I checked my cars and the Torino and GTO (I never got a Chevelle) do indeed have this Tiny screw missing. So, the three highest numbered cars have definately had their guts changed. I have two Torino chassis and one GTO. All have equal steps, but one of the Torinos has slight stutter every now and then, but not the terrible centering stutter of the old cars. The other two are perfect in every way.
So, I would say from Torino on up is a good bet, with the GTOs almost being a sure thing for getting a good car. BTW, I hope you were wrong about RS only stocking Torinos and Savannahs from now on. This could mean they are phasing out Zips and I haven't replaced all my cars yet! All of the stores around here only have Torinos and Savannahs right now.
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Old 07-27-2004, 06:37 AM
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Well, I certainly hope the info is a little off too...But the source was 'cj' and if there was ever anyway with SOLID inside info it is him...He ALWAYS has the lowdown on new things BEFORE even the local stores know about them (heck before it's even in their computer system).

For instance, he's given some info about:
60-7543 Corvette Past and Present body kit $4.99
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Old 07-29-2004, 09:26 AM
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Looked at some more SE kits this morning…

Azimov, I think you also hit on a likely visible queue, it seems the original SE kits indeed have the motors with ‘regular’ endbells. Whereas the newer models have the motors with the endbells that look like a big solder ‘blob’ and takes up the entire bottom (no contact issues with these badboys!).

The Mustang SEs had the regular motors and that screw at the bottom of the Chassis, whereas the Torinos and GTOs have the ‘blobbed’ motors and no screw.

Considering RadioShacks’ current clearance sale on basically EVERY SE, this is an excellent time to pick up a newer, ‘fixed’ SE!
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  #5  
Old 07-29-2004, 02:36 PM
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Yup, I thought so. BTW, I have been talking to a customer service supervisor over at RS and he tells me that new SEs are due out in August. He says these will have no steering issues. So, keep an eyeball pealed!
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Old 07-29-2004, 02:59 PM
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Huh? Were they talking about possibly smoother steering (more steps) or maybe a little more ‘play’ between steps in steering on the control? Cause as far as I can see, the steering ‘issues’, that being the stuttering, has already been addressed with the Torino and newer SEs?

In any case, it’s nice to see that they’re taking some ownership of the issues…Did he let you in on any other info?
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  #7  
Old 07-29-2004, 03:21 PM
richh richh is offline
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ok, after seeing numerous posts about the later model se's, i just had to get a few. i recently bought two torinos, and a chevelle. while the steering is much more balanced turning left and right (10x better than the rx-7 and audi that i bought way back when), i still see quite a bit of the stuttering that was evident on the early models. also on one of the torinos, one of the front wheels just barely touches the ground, so while there are equal number of steps to the left and right, it still turns better one way than the other.

even with these issues, still well worth the $14.99 though ...
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Old 07-29-2004, 07:08 PM
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I don't think the steering will be improved past just fixing the earlier faults. He was just basically saying the new ones work as they should, though he would never outright admit they were faulty to begin with. So, I expect them to work as well as the good cars that can be found in the Torinos, and especially the GTOs Could be that soon only good cars (for the most part) will be on the shelves.
He didn't spill any beans about models, or tie-ins or anything like that, just that they would work correctly.
BTW, I was reading something on BitPimps last night about a Monster Truck kit or add on, or something??, not sure. Anybody know any more about this? This was from CJ, who I know is a good source. See if he can dig up anything about these August releases coming out.
Edit: Now that I think of it, the guy said new cars would be in the warehouses in August. This could just mean more Torinos and Savannahs. Dunno.
Edit again: Nope their new models. Here's what the guy said,
Quote:
We are in the process of updating the entire ZipZaps line with new models being introduced in August.
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Last edited by Azimov; 07-30-2004 at 03:38 AM.
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  #9  
Old 07-29-2004, 07:14 PM
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Quote:
i still see quite a bit of the stuttering that was evident on the early models. also on one of the torinos, one of the front wheels just barely touches the ground,
I'd return the stuttery ones. I have two here that don't stutter at all. Not a peep. And if you can't tune that warped chassis, I'd pack that sucker back too.
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  #10  
Old 07-30-2004, 12:23 AM
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As I said in Azimov's thread, I have a "new old" Savanna (just got it, but it had the old PCB without fix, so it stutters in one direction). I want to trade it in for a GTO, but I wish I could keep the Savanna body rather than the GTO. I just want to end up with (1x) newer fixed chassis and (1x) Savanna body. Is there a way RS will let me trade in my chassis but keep the Savanna instead of the GTO. If I can't keep my Savanna, it isn't a big deal, but I would much rather have it then the GTO, and since RS doesn't offer a body kit for the Savanna I would have to buy a whole new starter set to get it. I was also wondering how you trade the car back in, do you just repack it with all instructions and parts?



Thanks,
Micro

Last edited by MicroSpeed; 07-30-2004 at 12:26 AM.
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  #11  
Old 07-30-2004, 02:50 AM
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Yeah, take it back. Just repack everything. Take your receipt. RS won't take just the chassis, it's an all or nothin kinda deal. I got a couple Savannah bodys here with the light circuit taken out of them. Yours for free if you want.
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Old 07-30-2004, 10:27 AM
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Okay, thanks. I might be interested in on of your Savanna's.
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Old 07-30-2004, 02:11 PM
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Asimov, I would love to have an Savanna body if you don't mind giving one up.

Later,
Chrome...
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  #14  
Old 07-30-2004, 03:31 PM
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Quote:
I might be interested in on of your Savanna's.
Quote:
Asimov, I would love to have an Savanna body if you don't mind giving one up.
No problem. Shoot me an email and I'll send you one. Just remember they don't have lights in them. But, it's an easy thing to pull a light circuit out of another car.
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Old 08-02-2004, 01:44 AM
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Picked up 2 more Torinos for 15.00 each. Both have no steering motor screw and larger motor endbell contacts. Both work perfect.
Also picked up a Bandit Trans Am body. Love that thing with wide tires on the rear. I blamed the body purchase on Namuna to the ole lady. Told her his looked so good I had to buy it. "Sides it was on sale .
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