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  #1  
Old 02-05-2003, 07:57 PM
vaypourus vaypourus is offline
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Some newb questions!

After reading through the FAQ, I still have a few questions.

I recently bought a 49 MHz Microsizer white Skyline for $19, and the additional 2.6 motor for another $6. Both are new. Did I get hosed? They are the real deal (not a clone)- I made sure of that.

After reading though the site, I decided that the 3.8 motor, gear ratio kit, and the NiMH battery is a must. Any objections?

Also, can I snip off the crippling capacitor on my controller? I read that it says for Bit Char-g only, but isn't the Microsizer the same thing?

Any help would be appreciated, as well as any other suggestions~ Thanks
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  #2  
Old 02-05-2003, 08:05 PM
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2fst4u 2fst4u is offline
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hosed?

that's a pretty good price for a real deal microsizer. and the 2.6 is definately worth 6 bucks. spend the extra money for the 3.8 tho, you'll be pleased. then sell the 2.6 to a buddy for 7 bucks.
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  #3  
Old 02-05-2003, 08:45 PM
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crazydave crazydave is offline
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Yeah, sounds likeyou got a deal to me. Get the 3.8, you'll be happy. Heck get a bunch of different motors. My 3.2 is almost faster than my 3.8 in smaller areas, but I still need to get the gear set. I've heard lots of great stuff about the R-spec around here.

NiMH batteries do have a longer run time, and are slightly punchier, but are not a total must. Read this Peak Charg'd post that TinyRC made, and this one Peak charge with your volt meter that I made. I'm getting 20+ minute runtimes from the stock battery and a 3.8 motor.

My Microsizer Sport didn't have the crip cap on the controller, but it did have the one on the car. I don't know if the standard Microsizer is the same. Check out this controller mod from the Quest for Madness website. It'll show you where the crip cap is. This Car Rx mod will show you where the crip cap is on the car. If your not too handy with the soldering iron I wouldn't reccomend the car Rx mod, as I found the result to minimal in both the Microsizer, and Bit, but the Bit also had the crip cap in the controller, and the combined results made a drastic difference in that car. From a stuttery 5 feet, to 20 ft. indoors. If you have the one on your controller then just snip it off, it's not problem.

Dave
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  #4  
Old 02-05-2003, 09:32 PM
vaypourus vaypourus is offline
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Thanks for the reply.

I am waiting for them to arrive in the mail- it will probably be another week or so. When it gets here, I will check out the crip cap.

I have been reading up on the 3.8 motor compared to the R-spec...both sound interesting; I think I will get both!

Also, can somebody point me to a thread about "boosting"? I am doing my best to research it, but there is just way too much info. I had no idea these "toys" had so much science behind them!

Thanks-
vayp

Last edited by vaypourus; 02-05-2003 at 09:38 PM.
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  #5  
Old 02-05-2003, 10:08 PM
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Pojo Pojo is offline
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Well, "booster" chassis (chassis capable of boost), are two speed. On their controllers, there is a button on the top right for shifting your car into "second gear." When not pressed, the car goes slower than a regular Microsizer. But when the button is pressed, it "boosts" up to the speed of a regular Microsizer. What's the point? "Shifting down" is great for bit tracks (tracks made for these cars) with lots of turns. Then, when you reach a straightaway, punch the button.
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  #6  
Old 02-13-2003, 09:16 AM
vaypourus vaypourus is offline
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Crazydave-

I read through the links about the battery charging, as well as many other threads in here.

I don't want to spend $150 on a really nice charger, seeing as how even for 4 bits (if I decide to get that many) I can't justify the cost. I would also like to charge the batteries while in the car; removing them everytime is more hassle that I would like.

My question is; whats this mod of removing the timer in the controller or wiring directly from the batteries inthe controller that I keep hearing about? It would be nice if I could still charge from the controller, however get longer and better charges than the 2-3 minute run time on a NiCa battery.

If you could explain or post a link, it would make me your biggest fan-

vayp
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  #7  
Old 02-13-2003, 09:30 AM
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hogjowlz hogjowlz is offline
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you guys failed to mention the most important mod. dual batteries. this is like going from a 4cylinder to a big block.
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  #8  
Old 02-13-2003, 09:58 AM
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You don't have to get a Peak Charger, you could just as easily build a charging station with a cheap RadioShack multiple battery holder connected to the charging stand from the remote (if you were going to remove the stand from the remote)

Doing some math, you'll be able to figure out how long you need to charge.

MicroSizer + 2.6 = $25? = Good Deal
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  #9  
Old 02-13-2003, 10:12 AM
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hogjowlz hogjowlz is offline
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ya a 20$ microsizer is pretty good. rip the board out and put a better clone board in it and you got one great car.
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  #10  
Old 02-13-2003, 10:38 AM
vaypourus vaypourus is offline
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Well, I actually got outbid on the microsizer...I did though get the 2.6 micro B for $6, and I picked up a genuine 27 MHz NSX-R Bit for $19 new! I am pretty excitied.

I now have my eyes set on a variety of motors, and 3 other bits (next is the 350Z with boost and an R-spec; then will come a supra with a 3.4 DKS Darkstar, and a Skyline with a Toy East 3.8)

I really would like to be able to use the controller for charging; I will usually be on the run, and a power source will be both hard to come by and inconvenient.

Whats the deal with the clone boards? Why are they supposedly better than the bit boards? I can't remember runing into anything about this...
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  #11  
Old 02-13-2003, 11:17 AM
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hogjowlz hogjowlz is offline
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most clones get better reception than tomy boards.

also this is a preference thing but i like the clone buttons better.
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  #12  
Old 02-13-2003, 11:43 AM
vaypourus vaypourus is offline
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Even after getting rid of the cripple capacitor, will the clone boards will get better recpetion?

What kind of clone would you suggest? I might just get one just to play around. LXX?
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  #13  
Old 02-13-2003, 02:00 PM
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ralliart ralliart is offline
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whoa crazydave thats some good info...thx man...
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  #14  
Old 02-13-2003, 02:07 PM
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hogjowlz hogjowlz is offline
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well removing the cripple capacitor is pretty risky. that is a small cap and if you mess up you probably wrecked your board. really any clone pcb will work but i use cyclonas because they are cheap and reliable.
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  #15  
Old 02-13-2003, 02:48 PM
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bwsk8 bwsk8 is offline
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Who sells clone boards and will they work in zipzaps?
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