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  #16  
Old 02-14-2003, 05:15 PM
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hogjowlz hogjowlz is offline
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if it doesnt it would with dual batteries.
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  #17  
Old 02-14-2003, 07:17 PM
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Silent_NightR34 Silent_NightR34 is offline
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i saw the end cap and im wondering if it fits a microsizer...does it?
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  #18  
Old 02-14-2003, 07:21 PM
Vyrus Vyrus is offline
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Hey guys, I bought a 3.8 motor off eBay last week. It has a light blue endbell, so at first I was skeptical as to if it really was a 3.8 or if the motor was a lower-spinning version. Well I raced a Boosted 350Z w/ R-Spec and lost by about a foot in for 30-ft race. Nonetheless I am very pleased.
-Cyrus
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ZIPZAP 1969 Baby Blue Camaro Yenko.. ToyEast 3.8 motor, Tomy 8.25:1 gearing, ToyEast 150mAh NiMH, Tomy SE fullsize wheels, Tomy front knuckles, Tomy soft swaybar, Tomy tires (pink front/blue rear).
Also: Tomy GS-03, Tomy GS-04, Tomy GS-07, Tomy 2.4 motor, TinyRC.com R-Spec motor, ZZ 2.15 motor, Guards Red Porsche 911 body, 2003 Ruby 350Z body, 1970 Orange Dodge Challenger Challenger body.
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  #19  
Old 02-14-2003, 07:32 PM
big-key big-key is offline
MICRO RC RAVEN#976
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Germany
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Vyrus,
How does the guy w/the 350Z using a R-spec motor control his car? I have a 350Z and use either a R-spec or bitmod1 3.5 in it and can't keep it under control enough to run it straight >10'. Is it set up with wider rear tires or something? What kinda surface are you guys running on? I ordered a Gloria set w/this new perfection motor from toyeast to check it out. I know this is kinda random and off topic, but could you help me out? 350Z
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  #20  
Old 02-14-2003, 07:37 PM
Vyrus Vyrus is offline
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The 350Z is 100% stock except for a 20AWG antenna and R-Spec motor (now blown so 2.6 ). The vehicle was hard to control, but nonetheless it WAS controllable. The tires were pretty roughed up since we drove the car on asphalt a little, and this might have helped with traction a little. We race on a normal tile floor though, I suppose it is a little dirtier than most but nothing special. Now turns are something else - the car spins out every time on those. Oh and I never push boost before I push the accelerator. I always get a tiny jump and then push the button, and try to go as straight as possible. Hope this helps.
-Cyrus

EDIT: Also if you alignment is off even the slightest bit, you will spin in circles from the getgo. I suggest correcting the alignment on the unboosted mode before every run.
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ZIPZAP 1969 Baby Blue Camaro Yenko.. ToyEast 3.8 motor, Tomy 8.25:1 gearing, ToyEast 150mAh NiMH, Tomy SE fullsize wheels, Tomy front knuckles, Tomy soft swaybar, Tomy tires (pink front/blue rear).
Also: Tomy GS-03, Tomy GS-04, Tomy GS-07, Tomy 2.4 motor, TinyRC.com R-Spec motor, ZZ 2.15 motor, Guards Red Porsche 911 body, 2003 Ruby 350Z body, 1970 Orange Dodge Challenger Challenger body.
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  #21  
Old 02-14-2003, 07:45 PM
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bwsk8 bwsk8 is offline
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yeah it does slient nignt
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  #22  
Old 02-14-2003, 07:49 PM
big-key big-key is offline
MICRO RC RAVEN#976
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
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Thanks,
I do the same thing w/m boost button. Let it run a short distance w/o boost and then hit it. I love the acceleration, especially when it is running from my left to right or vice versa. Whenever I start off w/boost I just end up doing donuts until I release it. I need to rough up the tires a little bit (car is pretty new and tires are too) or swap em out with some older ones. I'm also running on a tile floor. The tiles are pretty big though (50cmx50cm). I really hate the cracks between them, they throw everything off (steering, alignment, and make my car hop too much). Thanks for the info.
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  #23  
Old 02-15-2003, 01:32 AM
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dohc dohc is offline
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Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 51
ive finally done it! my 2.2 motor modified from uh below 40 guage i think to 44 guage. this thing hauls ass! longer run time, 3 or 4 times faster than 3.8 on 2 Ni-Cads. i get about 10 min of runtime at max. guarantee to last you a whole month without the motor breaking down. and other than that, you wont regret it! movie comming soon
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