
01-19-2004, 09:16 AM
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Mad Scientist
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Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Buffalo, NY
Posts: 901
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The rear notch seems to be the easiest way to mount the MINI body. That's the way I did it, too. Nice job on the conversion.
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01-19-2004, 02:39 PM
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TinyRC & Mini-zRacer Fan
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Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Washington, DC
Posts: 2,593
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or you could have tried the mini cooper mini-z body made by mini power i think it is. they also make a 206 and mr02...
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01-19-2004, 05:55 PM
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Mad Scientist
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Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Buffalo, NY
Posts: 901
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The Mini-power is the one I'm using, though this one looks a bit more detailed.
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01-19-2004, 10:30 PM
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TinyRC Newbie
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Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: los angeles
Posts: 16
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italian job-mini copper 1st car
another pic
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01-19-2004, 10:32 PM
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TinyRC Newbie
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Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: los angeles
Posts: 16
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italian job- mini cooper 1st car
it all starts here
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01-20-2004, 10:50 AM
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TinyRC Pro
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Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Memphis TN
Posts: 32
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Igoren....
very good work. You should recieve one of my slaveboxes. for real man that is some good work. I use Revell kits to. but things are slower for me due to paint resources. So I just focus on things like body work and performance stuff. Hey check out this under plate I had done for my friends eclipse which has since been painted and is in it's final stages of completion. Where did you get your metal wheel nuts or better yet what size are they I have been hunting those things down forever.
sinistar
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01-20-2004, 11:05 AM
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TinyRC Pro
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Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Memphis TN
Posts: 32
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checkout the 1:28 Xmods with a 1:25 model kit thread for most of the posted work I have already done not much of my kits that I own and have fitted are posted yet just others. But I'm also wondering if it's possible to make a tamiya dual gear box fit on an xmod definately possible from what I have researched. a completed dualbox on the left.
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01-20-2004, 11:07 AM
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TinyRC Pro
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Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Memphis TN
Posts: 32
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better clear picture
of the tamiya dualbox
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01-20-2004, 11:58 AM
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Registered User
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Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Michigan
Posts: 197
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Umm WHY? lol... power the front and rear axles seperately? again why?!
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01-20-2004, 12:49 PM
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TinyRC Newbie
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Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: los angeles
Posts: 16
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italian job-mini cooper 1st car
thanks for the coment on my work
it took alot of tril and error to get the complet cooper.
but it is rewording.
i still need to do some more twiks because the car is almost
uncontrolable with all the updgeads.
simply too fast with 6 cells and all the goodis.
i tryed to put scale tyers that come with the revell kit
but they rub against the fenders and i dont wont to shave too mutch from the fenders for scale look.
for the metal wheel nuts :
2mm muts , you can find them in hobby shopes, modle train shopes., etc.
as for the gear box : looks very atractive , but i like to keep the
xmodes as closed as i can to the original not to apset my 2 boys
and their friends so we can race fairly....
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01-24-2004, 08:00 PM
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TinyRC Pro
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Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Memphis TN
Posts: 32
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Hey igoren I'm about halfway from completing my Civichatch kit from Revell. It's going to be so sick. Anyway u'm I'm not really shure how or if even the tamiya Dual Gear Box would even work. An entirely new rearend plate would have to be made to mount and work with any xmod. And on top of that the slavegear box I found would only work if it had some kind of other source of power as opposed to it's natural function by being woundup be a alternate source of force from behind. The Slavegear box works comes from etc. those toy trucks for example one I got for a 1$ at Dollartree by pushing it to go foreward once twice three times while holding it and then letting it go and however much force you put to it it would return but eventually slow down that is since there is nothing to make it go constantly. I really would continue to spend time on this but it would have to be reworked to have an axle met up with it making it a true front LSD for an AWD Xmod. But from what I have already dealt with Its going to take about 1.5 to 2 months atleast due to having to make metal cup parts to met up with the box and then power the front wheels and then the time it would take to make the box over again to support a final pinion gear coming from the motor from the back. It's a good theory of having one of those in the front because then it would really be like a real car with oversteer/understeer. I'm so hating my brain right now for thinking up this crazy idea but it will be done. there is another project it could acomidate. And I definately will have a documented account for that whole thing.
Sinistar
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01-25-2004, 03:27 AM
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TinyRC Newbie
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Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: los angeles
Posts: 16
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italian job - mini cooper 1st car
new power plant
i didnt like the look ,the waight and the wiring of 6 cells.
so i made this set up :
2 - 3.7 v lithium-ion 1400 mah.
need to glue the tyers.......
i will have more data on this bat. after few runs.
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01-25-2004, 03:29 AM
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TinyRC Newbie
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Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: los angeles
Posts: 16
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italian job mini cooper 1st car
another picture
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01-25-2004, 06:23 PM
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TinyRC Pro
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Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Memphis TN
Posts: 32
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hey thats nice Definately way easier to deal with as opposed to 4 AAA's. Would you try to do an fet upgrade anytime? I'm deffinetely considering it due to the good results others have had from using Neuros plans. Anyway I'm now looking at having the Civic HB done in just about midweek. And the pics should be up soon. It's already looking real good but time is the teller of all till I get it done. Again nice work you may want to looking into touching up your insides of the fenders and getting some wheel kit off of HLJ.COM. I'm also putting together a set of Pirellis P-Zeros for the Civic HB and it definately makes it look extra killer with the newer stance they are 18's AMG's from Mercedies (Fujimi). I'm also planing on developing some sort of wheel balancing/mounting machine to make wheels in a more percise manner as opposed to using hand filled hobby files.
Sinistar
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