01-14-2004, 02:25 PM
|
 |
Got Brains?
|
|
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: in your closet, under your bed
Posts: 403
|
|
|
hot hot hot
Mine stopped running last night, so when I opened it up to find out why, the heatsink burned my finger. I thought maybe it overheated since I had just went from s2 yellow to blue, but it turned out the batteries in the roof had come a little loose.
__________________
This is your brain.....
This is your brain with a side of bacon and some toast
Mmmmmmmmmm.....brains.........
|
01-14-2004, 06:13 PM
|
 |
Umm.. Teal Rsx
|
|
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Maryland
Posts: 398
|
|
|
i've seen some with the fins chopped off, does it serve any perpose, i don't think it would any opinons?
|
01-15-2004, 11:24 AM
|
|
Got Brains?
|
|
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: in your closet, under your bed
Posts: 403
|
|
|
no
The fins are needed to help dissipate the heat.
__________________
This is your brain.....
This is your brain with a side of bacon and some toast
Mmmmmmmmmm.....brains.........
|
01-15-2004, 06:17 PM
|
|
Umm.. Teal Rsx
|
|
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Maryland
Posts: 398
|
|
|
and i've seen them like, half the motor holder is cut off and the heat snik is still there
|
01-15-2004, 08:42 PM
|
 |
|
|
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Fairmont
Posts: 395
|
|
|
That would theoretically cool it better, but that leaves the motor open to any kind of airborne debris that could screw it up.
__________________
Mazda Savanna RX-7
stage 2 motor | spaced wheels
|
01-17-2004, 07:59 AM
|
|
--PCB smoker--
|
|
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 74
|
|
|
heatsink
A computer ram or heatsink cut to fit would work well. That would provide the optimuim cooling efficency. I would lap(sand) the top of the motor starting with about 400 grit then gradually work your way up to a 2000grit paper, leaving no high or lowspots in the motors can top surface. Then I would sand the contact surface area of the heatsink the same.
I would use a thermal epoxy, a thermal epoxy like they use for CPU heatsinks, not a thermal paste, but the epoxy and i think Artic Silver makes an epoxy as well.
The stock heatsink sits tight but it is not a efficent transfer or dissapation.
|
01-17-2004, 11:33 AM
|
 |
Registered User
|
|
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Bay Area
Posts: 831
|
|
Quote:
|
The stock heatsink sits tight but it is not a efficent transfer or dissapation.
|
I agree.
__________________
RSX...FWD..soft tread F & hard tread R tires..gloss black skyline wheels..crystal clear headlights..euro taillights..4.5 tie rod..lights..red suspension arms..red springs..alloy nuts
white Supra...RWD..doubled rear stock tires..white 5 spoke wheels(from 1st RS upgrade)..lowered..st.2 drift..lights..alloy nuts
350Z...Supra wheels..chrome exhaust tips..lowered..lights..lifted rear with spacers for leveled stance..alloy nuts..body match painted supra wheels
black Skyline...AWD..RSX wheels..lowered..all orange painted silvers..st.2 drift..lights..yellow springs..alloy nuts
67' Camaro...lights..reversed rear wheels..alloy nuts
NSX..RSX wheels..smoked headlight housing..lights..alloy nuts
black Civic...lights..lowered..Skyline clip..black Supra wheels
yellow Skyline, outdoor car..LITHS..AWD - front LSD & locked rear..drift tires or hard tires..dipped 9T st. 2 motor..black chassis, rear upper deck & motor holders..yellow springs...rear monoshock..F&R alloy cups, shafts, and knuckles
F150 mods include fets, 7.4V liths, st1 motor with stock gearing, F&R gpm diffs monster tires, bearings, lift kit and 4WD.
silver Supra on evo chassis, liths, AWD, lowering kit, wide rear stance, st2, bearings, 1.5 TR, F&R gpm knuckles
G35 rolling chassis
H2 rolling chassis
Cobra,rolling chassis
red Supra SOLD
65' Mustang...SOLD
Corvette... SOLD
WRX...SOLD
blue Civic...SOLD
|
01-19-2004, 09:48 AM
|
 |
Track Master
|
|
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 79
|
|
|
I thought about using thermal paste as well but was concerned with the dirt and dust and gunk that gets into everything when you run it outdoors.
And youd need to put a separate sink on each motor you used most likely, as removing the sink each time would waste the goop and make the risk of getting it elsewhere as well as getting dust in it higher.
Might be interesting to test the life of the motors w and w/o heat sink to see how long they last.
|
01-19-2004, 12:05 PM
|
|
Registered User
|
|
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 118
|
|
|
The heatsink isn't all that necessary with a factory RadioShack Stage 1 or 2 even on carpet with higher gearing and AWD. I don't believe that even in those conditions, the motor will heat enough for a loss in magnetic field to a point where its noticable in the cars performance.
When you start running a motor with a higher energy draw or a higher voltage power source, you will want to address keeping the motor cool. IMO the factory unmod'd RadioShack goodies aren't enough to worry about.
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
All times are GMT -5. The time now is 06:33 AM.
|
|
Linear Mode
