Carbon Fiber, Trc/zero-p Chassis Pics - Page 14

dietryin · #**196** 01-20-2005, 07:28 PM

ur car needs a bath

#**197** 01-20-2005, 08:34 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Silentbob343
After doing some research that GWS receiver is 72MHz.

Search some more they are out there, just hard to find, or EM me to get the source...........

STANG KILLA SS · #**198** 01-26-2005, 11:15 AM

I FOUND ANOTHER PLACE TO MAKE THE CARBON FIBER CHASSIS!
i think the waiting has gotten rediculous.

this place can supply and CNC the CF for us!
http://dragonplate.com/
http://dragonplate.com/sections/CNC-machined.asp
im a architect and have autocad, if somebodys got a schematic or chassis i can measure, i can draw up the .dwg/.dxf to send to them and we can get these made!

Silentbob343 · #**199** 01-26-2005, 12:11 PM

Damn, I bought the 72 Mhz version and a 72 Mhz Tx as well. I would've liked to have been able to use a pistol grip Tx, Oh well, I'll look around next time for the 75MHz version, Mini quake plans. Wish I would've checked back sooner.

Stang,
I ordered a sample pack of that stuff to make my own chassis and it's very nice. I will be cutting it with a scroll saw or I may have them CNC cut it for me if the price is low enough.

I'm currently working with AutoCAD and drawing the chassis to make a template, but I've been really busy with work and school so it's on the back burner right now.

The 1/16 is very strong and flexs very little.

Just found a site that sells the 75Mhz version, but it cost a little more.

STANG KILLA SS · #**200** 01-26-2005, 02:08 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Silentbob343

Stang,
I ordered a sample pack of that stuff to make my own chassis and it's very nice. I will be cutting it with a scroll saw or I may have them CNC cut it for me if the price is low enough.

I'm currently working with AutoCAD and drawing the chassis to make a template, but I've been really busy with work and school so it's on the back burner right now.

The 1/16 is very strong and flexs very little.

.

cool the 12.95 dollar sample? the problem is i never say what thickness the sample pack was

edit, just saw its got different thicknesses, 2"x3" is that big enough?
the 1/16x5.75x7.75 is like 14 bucks, still not bad at all

Silentbob343 · #**201** 01-26-2005, 10:47 PM

No the 2x3 sample is to short by 3/4in.

I bought the sample to get an idea of the different thicknesses and determine what the best method for cutting them would be. You also get a 5% off coupon on your next order if you buy the sample pack.

STANG KILLA SS · #**202** 01-27-2005, 09:02 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Silentbob343
No the 2x3 sample is to short by 3/4in.

I bought the sample to get an idea of the different thicknesses and determine what the best method for cutting them would be. You also get a 5% off coupon on your next order if you buy the sample pack.

a ok cool. im thinking the 1/16 might be too thin for the main chassis, but good for things like the front and rear decks, but the 3/32 might be just right. i might order the same pac too. and make me a front deck.

Silentbob343 · #**203** 01-27-2005, 01:29 PM

1/16in is 1.5875mm which seems to be the standard for Mini-Z chassis. For larger 1/8th scale RC cars/trucks I would use 3/32in or 1/8in, but 1/16in seems ok for these cars unless you plan on hitting stationary objects at high speeds.

STANG KILLA SS · #**204** 01-27-2005, 05:27 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Silentbob343
1/16in is 1.5875mm which seems to be the standard for Mini-Z chassis. For larger 1/8th scale RC cars/trucks I would use 3/32in or 1/8in, but 1/16in seems ok for these cars unless you plan on hitting stationary objects at high speeds.

lol

Silentbob343 · #**205** 01-28-2005, 03:05 AM

I just finished the CAD drawing for the general out line of the pan chassis. I have to add the screw holes and create a steering/suspension plate, as well as the upper deck. I'm going to try and create a one-piece upper, but can’t really design it till I have all the other pieces laid out in the chassis. I will be keeping the bottom completely solid because I drive out side on rough asphalt want to minimize the amount of crap that makes its way into the moving parts of my car.

I think adding the screw holes will be fairly difficult. I have to go out and buy a Vernier Caliper today to make accurate measurements for holes.

Just did some quick math and I believe the holes are .086/Pi=.02737 in diameter. I'm basing that on the screw size, 2-56. I should easily be able to get the holes plotted and the steering plate template made as well sometime this weekend. Just have to order the Li-Poly battery to finish rigging up the electronics. This will determine my stand off heights and upper deck design.

dark_wing · #**206** 01-30-2005, 08:22 PM

I've just seen that you are trying to do a custom CF chassis, could you post the CAD DWG Drawings? Thanks a lot, it would be great.

STANG KILLA SS · #**207** 01-31-2005, 09:34 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Silentbob343
I just finished the CAD drawing for the general out line of the pan chassis. I have to add the screw holes and create a steering/suspension plate, as well as the upper deck. I'm going to try and create a one-piece upper, but can’t really design it till I have all the other pieces laid out in the chassis. I will be keeping the bottom completely solid because I drive out side on rough asphalt want to minimize the amount of crap that makes its way into the moving parts of my car.

I think adding the screw holes will be fairly difficult. I have to go out and buy a Vernier Caliper today to make accurate measurements for holes.

Just did some quick math and I believe the holes are .086/Pi=.02737 in diameter. I'm basing that on the screw size, 2-56. I should easily be able to get the holes plotted and the steering plate template made as well sometime this weekend. Just have to order the Li-Poly battery to finish rigging up the electronics. This will determine my stand off heights and upper deck design.

i just used 1/16 holes in my aluminum front and rear decks. worked great.

STANG KILLA SS · #**208** 01-31-2005, 09:36 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by dark_wing
I've just seen that you are trying to do a custom CF chassis, could you post the CAD DWG Drawings? Thanks a lot, it would be great.

yeah that WOULD be great for the rest of us that want to make our own too

Silentbob343 · #**209** 02-01-2005, 06:45 AM

Hmmm.....should I?

I was wondering if anybody would get around to asking this question. Although I started working on this project before I knew about the Zero-P's chassis I feel I would have to ask him because he has been helpful in answering some questions and even having access to his designs. I would hate to undercut him on a product that he is using as a means to make money. Perhaps I could email them to you so as to try and keep them from becoming widespread.

I have finished the lower pan as far as dimensions and hole locations and I even made a poster board prototype that seemed to fit very well, but poster board flexes and can't really be used to gauge my accuracy. I would like to make a prototype chassis with something stiffer and less giving, i.e. balsa wood, before I post anything. I want to make sure my holes are in the correct spot and distances are correct. I still need to plot holes for a motor mount as the plastic one that holds the end bell will not work without the stock electronics.

I will be retaining the stock rear end as there is a bit too much going on back there for me to mess with.

I never did buy a vernier caliper, but I'm shocked at how close I was able to measure using a cheap tape measure.

I was even thinking up making my own CF tie rod. So far my upper deck will be a copy of the lower deck and when I start to get the internals squared away I will make cut outs for the electronics, motor, etc.

My chassis is designed with hobby electronics in mind so I don’t have a cutout for the on-off switch or screw holes for holding the stock electronics in place.

I was even contemplating making own CF driveline components, but I'm not sure what drilling into the side of a CF laminate do. Might start to split the CF apart or the screws might not hold in place. Maybe if I were to cover the raw edges with an epoxy before drilling in to them? I was going to do this so I could create custom heights to lower and raise the car. Hard to explain perhaps when I finish I’ll make website with pictures and drawings to better illustrate my crazy ideas.

dark_wing · #**210** 02-01-2005, 08:57 AM

Then don't post it if you feel you shouldn't. I only wanted some ideas to make my own chassis (Perhaps they helped me) but I'm going to try my project myself. Well, realy with the big help tha zero has given us with the photos. Thanks a lot. Oh, if anyone want to know, I've found the CF from a slot shop. Just a question, is very difficult to cut the CF or I can cut it with my dremel? (Also I'ver read some people cutting it with a cutter).