Required Hop-Ups

If you take a stock chassis what are the required hop-ups to have a car that is consistent to drive and is reliable. I'm looking to get a dNaNo to practice with at home; I race Z's but my apartment is just way too small to put a Z track up in, but for dNaNo I could have enough room to get a few turns in.

I think bearings are obvious, but otherwise I'm not so sure. I think I'd want the ball diff simply because the feel of driving would probably be better.

-Jer

Hey

Basics hopup to me are bearings, ball diff and rear plate.
Gyro isn't that useful to me unless I use X-speed motor and I feel aluminum parts are mostly cosmetics.
Oh and the damper is good if you can fit it.

Hope it helps.

[MrNanoTrax]

definitely go with a gyro dude... you can always adjust how much it assists your driving with the ICS Cable. aluminum parts add weight which increases stability... the car will feel smoother when its heavier. check out my 'Race Spec: Breakdown' post at the nanotrax blog for everything i recommend.

[nitrojunkie]

Bearings,Kyosho Balldiff,Atomic dampner plate. If you are going to run on an HT track the gyro is a waste of money. If you will be running on a track with long straights and sweeping turns the gyro will help.The gyro deadens the car too much on short tight tracks.

[lornecherry]

gyro is track dependant, although I do recommend it, because you can simply unplug it for different track surfaces, or tune it down with ICS.

Higher grip tires for most surfaces (Atomic, PN or Kyosho) ...the rear aluminum hub is a must for me; the plastic one strips its set screw hole after 4 or 5 cleanings of the rear end (which you need to do).

Other than that, the differential, bearings are a must. I use a peice of foam instead of a commerical damper; cost less then a penny; but the damper is also good. Don't like carbon fibre rear plate, too stiff and same with Aluminum front plate. Again, your mileage may differ, and it really depends on whether you run on high speed track or slow and technical.

Start with the differential and bearings, rear alloy hub and perhaps gyro ...the rest is personal preferance and tuning to your running surface.

I almost forgot; upgrading the transmitter is high on my list; I'm dveloping a disdain for the Perfex 2.4GHz; it has more than glitches than Tiger Woods has girlfriends.

[microracer30]

I got more time to spend on the track now that it is closer to home, so I'm noticing all the flaws. I went all out on my subaru impreza wrc when I first bought it 5 months ago with bearings, kyosho ball diff, x-speed motor and gyro.

The first thing that I tried battling was the terrible bumping in the rear so I put a kyosho carbon hard H-plate. It helped a lot, but its still bumpy. I put PN #15 tires in rear, but it made it worse. put the stock ones back.
Will aluminum fr suspension steering plates/rear wheel hubs, #8 tires and atomic damper to perfect it?

The second attempt was the large steering radius (under-steer) that gets worse the faster you go. I didn't think the gyro was doing it so I put #40 tires in front that helped, but I think it could do better with a lower softer #.
Will getting rid of the ray gun, putting #35 in front and a getting an ICS cable to adjust the gyro Perfect it?

The last problem was the instant speed demon barrel roll. I know its the subaru body, its very top heavy, and, I know, the x-treme speed motor is too much for that track. I can tune the motor via ICS or throttle down VIA ex-1 ur.
So, is the mazda 787b still the best body, or is there something lower and wider?

money is no issue, I will perfect this track down and Ill keep posted on what works and doesn't.