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  #1  
Old 02-09-2004, 12:16 PM
Alard Alard is offline
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Muzzle flash circuit

Here it is
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  #2  
Old 02-09-2004, 12:46 PM
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Namuna Namuna is offline
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Thanks Alard.

...Now I just gotta reacquaint myself with how to read a diagram!
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  #3  
Old 02-09-2004, 02:42 PM
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Combat-Digi-Q Combat-Digi-Q is offline
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Much thanks Alard. You just made my day. Thanks again, it will be going up on my new new website soon. Once I get it up heh. Thanks if you dont want it up then just say so :-)
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  #4  
Old 02-09-2004, 11:32 PM
4-D 4-D is offline
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so is aney one going 2 hook up one of thes puppies up? caz im not i might of done some other dareing stuff 2 my tanks but i can onley go so fare
i might do it if i hade a pic of where evreything goes
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  #5  
Old 02-10-2004, 03:50 PM
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Well this is Combat-Digi-Q under a friends name cuz his stupid thing wont let him log out. I already started hooking up the 555 timer and all the other goodies but ran out of time, I should be able to test it on the tank tomorrow and tell you guys how it is. Il let you guys know how it is.
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  #6  
Old 02-10-2004, 04:44 PM
marc12 marc12 is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by Combat-Digi-Q
, it will be going up on my new new website soon. Once I get it up heh. Thanks if you dont want it up then just say so :-)
that site is going ton be a good one

back on subject,

cool diagram, im going to look at it more thoe
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  #7  
Old 02-10-2004, 08:40 PM
4-D 4-D is offline
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fascinating zip or whoever u r.id love 2 see it or hear about it
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  #8  
Old 02-11-2004, 08:06 AM
Alard Alard is offline
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Use a low power CMOS 555

Glad you are going to try it out. Be sure to use a low power CMOS 555. The ones I use are designated 7555. I don't think the 5 volt supply of the tank will like a standard 555, too much current draw.
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  #9  
Old 02-12-2004, 06:46 PM
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Hi alard, I got the circuit build and it didnt work, talked to my digital electronics teacher and he said that 2 of the pins should be swapped. I forget exactly what he said but im gonna test out the new design tomorrow:-)
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  #10  
Old 02-13-2004, 09:33 AM
Alard Alard is offline
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Aarghh!

Sorry. Don't know how that happened, but, the schematic is wrong. The IR LED low side should be connected to pin 2 of the 555, not pin 4.

I'll post a new schematic.

How do I get the old one removed?
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  #11  
Old 02-13-2004, 09:49 AM
Alard Alard is offline
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corrected circuit diagram

Musta screwed it up going from Orcad, to Visio, to GIF.
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  #12  
Old 02-15-2004, 06:39 PM
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Combat-Digi-Q Combat-Digi-Q is offline
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Thx alard, Im on vacation right now so I cant update my circuit right now, but next monday I will be testing the new design out in the tank, Im probly going to use a tick size 555 timer because quite frankly theres not all that much room in these tanks, I might make a couple of these circuits like 20 of em if anybody would be interested in them, Maybe 5 dollars for 1 of em. Dunno yet
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  #13  
Old 02-16-2004, 12:46 AM
spad spad is offline
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I might be interested... I got 4 turret tanks coming from Japan this week, with sound tower and 4 tank charger. I've also reactivate my airbrush and diorama kits so i can do big battle on realistic terrain...

i'll post picts soon...
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  #14  
Old 02-16-2004, 01:55 AM
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Sounds cool, you have aim, Its alot easier to talk that way! To give you a little more information on the pcb board here it is, The board will be about .5 inches by .25 inches, the board itself will be located in the tank chassis(in the front by the switch) There will be jumper wires to run up to the turret from which a bright white led will send a surge of light through the fiber optics in the barrel, this will inturn make a flash out of the muzzle. The only thing is you will be needing to drill out the barrel of your digi q tanks, that will be a very hard task. Fortunatly I will be selling custom made aluminum barrels that will be almost identical to the plastic ones but will have the drilled out barrel and muzzle. They will come unpainted! Well its 2 am here so ill talk more later
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  #15  
Old 02-16-2004, 01:40 PM
Draconious Draconious is offline
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If you are replacing the barell any way... why not just replace it with hard, clear plastic tube? paint the outside of it, and leave the end "clear"... and use heat shrink on it, for "thicker" areas if you must... build it up...
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