Failed (so far) xmod axle conversion

[cdog4w]

Well, I tried out my theory of making the mini-x axle ends D shaped to take xmod rims. It actually worked really well, I put the axle in a vise and used a small hobby file to do the work. It was solidly attached to the axle and had about the same wheel slop as the original setup. After putting on the mini-x wheel nuts, if I tightened them too much, the wheels would bind against the knuckle. I should have been a bit more careful, but I was eager to try it out.

Long story short, I ended up losing 2 wheel nuts and a ball bearing from the rear. Doh! It was already dark more or less when I tried it, so I'm going to go look for them tomorrow.

I still think the idea is sound, but it might just mean that the D portion needed to be smaller to offset the wheel more. Perhaps a small washer that can snug up to the inner portion of the ball bearing to space the rim out a bit further would fix my problem?

I've also heard about some kind of hobby glue intended for this kind of thing, thread lock or something? Would that be appropriate here?

Anyway, nothing ventured, nothing gained. I have a backup set of axles, so I will be back up to speed as soon as I find that bearing or my replacement (just ordered) arrives.

[mde]

Thread lock or Loctite the best known name will work in any application where you don't want nuts to come loose. There are many different strengths and those for special conditions like high heat.

Loctite and simular products can be used in rc apps but be aware of these things:

Make sure yours isn't too strong, due to the small scale use a weaker compound other wise you'll strip things when you need to dismanle them be especially careful of small screw heads.

I use 242 blue for most general applications. Generally red is for heat apps like engine building, don't remeber the number and green is like a bonding agent for pressed parts... don't use green on something you want to take apart.

Loctite generally activates in no oxygen, apparently, so it stays pliable or wet untill the parts are mated.

Loctite can will damage powder coat if dripped on coated items and may affect some paints, annodizing and plastics as well so test first or cry later.

You don't need much, just a drop... more isn't better here.

Its great stuff I use it a lot but haven't had a need for it on my RC car yet.

[baleisen]

Don't use thread-lock. It eats plastic. Use Plastic Balloons. Its cheap and identical to the $12 Tamiya plastic friendly thread lock.
BAE

[mde]

Hi Baleisen.

Ballons are a good idea. You could also use teflon plumber's tape which is easy to use and a roll would probably last almost forever.

You could also use a drop of acrylic paint too.

I haven't had Loctite eat plastic before but I believe it could, what kind of plastic did it eat and how did it damage it?

[sawhit4]

i wouldnt use a tread locking compound or anything here. I had the same problem with my 1/10 scale stampede. the point of the small round space between the knuckle and the d shaped part is to keep binding from happening

[mde]

the point of the small round space between the knuckle and the d shaped part is to keep binding from happening...

True but I think cdog4w is wanting something to keep the nut on the axle so he does'nt have to fully seat the nut and bind the wheel.

As far as Loctite goes I think the material is the same as the old Sram x-ray mtb twist grips I spoke of and we used thread lock on them without problems. Since we're talking about the wheel hub in this case I'm with you... exercise caution.

Acrylic paint can be thinned with water and really just insulated the nut from vibration that could work it loose, same as teflon plumber's tape which is very thin.

Melted wax might bind but it would wear quickly and work as a dry lubricant as well. Wax would also work as a thread lock and would leave minimal residue if the axle threads are dipped in it and the nut is threaded on while it is warm. If there is any excess build up the wax is soft even when cool and esily removed.