
02-19-2003, 12:43 AM
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Rice Me
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Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Edmonton, Alberta
Posts: 1,444
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Im getting freaked out
i keep reading about people's rear tabs breaking off... the thing that holds the heatsink.... is this a common problem? cuz i know mine is cracked in the middle, no big deal.. but im afraid it's gonna snap off completely... any ideas on how to deal with or prevent this?
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02-19-2003, 03:05 AM
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V-tec aholic
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Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Nor*Cal
Posts: 125
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i dont have a problem with my rear tab,BUT if i do come into that situation i would use a two part apoxy and fix it.you can also try some J/B weld.
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Drive it like ya stole it!!
49mhz/SKYLINE/2.6/STERING SPRING MOD/ANTENA MOD
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02-19-2003, 07:41 AM
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Garage Rocker
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Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 516
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Mine cracked in the middle from using OEM motors, they're just a tad wider than Tomy's, and would not hold the heat sink down. I was haveing a problem with my motors self-ejecting.
I super-glued a thin piece of plastic, from Zip Zap packageing, on the top of it, trimmed it down, and I think it's stronger than ever now.
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02-19-2003, 07:58 AM
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Where's the Beer?
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Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 310
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I just use scotch tape to hold down the heat sink on my broken one. Just make sure you cut off any excess tape with a exacto blade as the body will not sit on there properly.
Mine snapped with a OEM motor in there as well, the price you pay for performance I guess.
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I'm taking the Bit's offroad!
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02-19-2003, 02:35 PM
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Rice Me
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Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Edmonton, Alberta
Posts: 1,444
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thx for the tips everyone! looks like i might have to try that epoxy stuff if my tab dies...i dont mind the motor not sitting in the well, it's just that the body wouldnt stay on if the tab breaks
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02-19-2003, 02:36 PM
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Retarded Stunt Driver
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Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Piksberg
Posts: 1,974
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a stitch in time saves 9.
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02-19-2003, 09:06 PM
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What he said.
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02-19-2003, 09:50 PM
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TinyRC Pro
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Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Florida
Posts: 57
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if you can try to get some kevlar thread at a hobby shop. You put CA on it and it's like steel re-enforcement. But a good idea for any plastic repair is getting a special plastic ahesive as it really does bond much better than regular crazy glue.
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02-19-2003, 09:55 PM
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Rice Me
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Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Edmonton, Alberta
Posts: 1,444
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kevlar thread?! it's... thread?
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02-19-2003, 10:07 PM
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Blitzer Sonic
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Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 608
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The 2 part epoxy stuff doesn't work very well. It's all goopy and soft so it doesn't hold well. I recommend using some really thin super glue. It works great.
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02-19-2003, 11:21 PM
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Rice Me
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Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Edmonton, Alberta
Posts: 1,444
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just to glue the orig tab thingies back onto the chassis eh?
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*AMC* - Why Are You All So Try?!
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02-20-2003, 02:41 AM
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Tool User
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Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Indy, IN, USA
Posts: 442
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You could make some aluminum tabs for it. Cheapest way would be to hack up a soda can, then fold part of it back on itself, and glue that to the chassis tabs.
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Trying to quench our need for 1/70 scale speed!
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02-20-2003, 06:32 AM
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Home Depot
I went to Home Depot and got this black cement. Mixed it all up with my backhoe. Real gooky, like tar!. Poured it all over the 'Bit. Haven't had the problem with the tab anymore.
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02-20-2003, 09:19 AM
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Retarded Stunt Driver
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Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Piksberg
Posts: 1,974
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Quote:
Originally posted by Zephyranthes
The 2 part epoxy stuff doesn't work very well. It's all goopy and soft so it doesn't hold well. I recommend using some really thin super glue. It works great.
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have you ever tried to let epoxy dry? i think it is supposed to do that.
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