internal help

Calsonic_racer · #1 04-28-2003, 09:30 AM

SO FAR I BROKE 4 FRREAKIN CARS TRYIN 2 DO A DUAL CELL BUT NONE OF THEM WORK RIGHT!! IVE TRIED BUNTAS, STRIDERS, A 3 CELL ZIP, AND ANOTHER STRIDERS BUT I CANT GET NE OF DEM TO WORK. I ALWAYS HAVE TO RE-SOLDER SOMETHING TO THE PCB AND IN THE END WHEN ITS ALL PUT TOGETHER IT WONT WORK!! which do u guys prefer out of all the internal dual cells? the original one, buntas vertical 2 cell, or striders laid down vertical 2 cell?? which is the easiest? and no i dont wanna do laymans cuz i dont like the run time on it.

hogjowlz · #2 04-28-2003, 09:37 AM

its not really that hard. what are you charging with? you cant use a regular charger anymore.

SlowbutCourious · #3 04-28-2003, 03:54 PM

...i would say the origonal way is the best... only because my internal 1 is messed up..just keep tryin it took me a long time and a couple clones 2 get right ..

Lord_Nick_D · #4 04-28-2003, 05:54 PM

i had the same problem But I stoped trying after wreaking I can

Calsonic_racer · #5 05-04-2003, 10:52 PM

i made my own charger its a 4 AA charger. any help on how to keep the wires from breaking? and i was wondering...... if i left the chargling plates alone on the car and the wires that go from the plate to the pcb can i solder my own wires from the battery to the car? in general it would be like this. i would solder 2 batteries together. next i would solder a wire from the positive side of one battery to the pcb board right next to the other posititive wire that leads to the positive charging plate. same thing with the negative part just swap "positive" with the word "negative". would it still charge functionally and still run at the same speed a bunta vertical 2 cell would or strider 2 cell?

alexnessie · #6 05-04-2003, 11:00 PM

look at my topic. a couple down from this one, you do NOT have to modify the charger for my dual cell mod.

crazydave · #7 05-05-2003, 09:28 AM

I always have problems when I first put my dual cells in. I use my volt meter to determine what my problem is.

If it's reading 0, then you are probably not making contact somewhere. If it reads .70, .84, .34, or anything like that, you might have a short somewhere. Check to make sure nothing's making contact where it shouldn't, cover the ends of your batteries with tape, break off your - battery tab, re-arrange or whatever you have to do so things that should not be touching, are not touching. If it's reading like 1.2-1.4, then you are only getting power from one battery. Something may have come loose, or if you shorted out the one of the batteries, that will run it down to 0, or even reverse voltage. I had a bunch of batteries where the voltage reversed, and dropped to 0. I thought I had got them too hot when I soldered, wrote "BAD" on them and set them aside. Months later I realized that they had shorted out when I put them in the chassis. I gave them a zap, and they took a charge. Luckily NiMH don't develop cell memory, but that is not the case with NiCds, if you run a NiCd down to nothing, it might not come back.

I also always use my volt meter to peak charge my battries, and cycle my batteries a couple times before I match them together. I run them down to 1.27v, and I keep checking voltage at every step of the process, then when it's all together I know exactly what they should be putting out all together.

Hope that helps, that's the basis of most the problems I ever had.

As far as which is better, seems like they all flip. Internal seems a little more controlable, and saves your body, external can be a bit more fun with the wheelies, and all the silliness. I think I'm leaning towards internal. Try them both, see what you like.