
03-29-2006, 02:39 PM
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Motorworks questions
For anyone out there, I bought a lot of stuff off of ebay that included 2 motorworks cars. One was a nascar replica.
I took them apart and saw that they use a 1 coil 2 magnet steering, which I always figured would have been better.
They also have a wire grounded to the shell of the motor. Neither of these have remotes. I was curious if anyone knows what that third wire to the motor was for and if some of them had a "turbo" button.
I still have yet to charge them up and see if they work with other remotes. They do look like they have a better design. I hope they work with other remotes beause I want to dual cell one of these pronto.
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03-30-2006, 02:39 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Salt Lake City UT
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i know almost anything about motorworks except about the third wire. No there isn't any turbo button but the motor is i think 2.6 and it does wheelies as soon as you get it.
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MOTORWORKS
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03-30-2006, 04:59 PM
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The motorworks only responds to moving forward with my zz controller
I'm going to try a few other controllers, but it looks like my motorworks might not be working very well.
There was a hot wheels truck in this lot too... it comes dual celled with batteries like the zzse. I'm not sure if I'll be able to find a controller for that too, or for the 57mhz bit too...
If not, eh... always parts
The motorworks tires are really nice. Larger diameter and lots of grip.
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03-30-2006, 08:44 PM
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Location: Indy, IN, USA
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Not positive on your MW, but I'm pretty sure the wired motors used in that generation are basically set up with a "common ground" on the motor can, and the endbell wireing is seperate inputs for Fwd and Rev. Rather than the standard 2 input motors like with Bits, Zips...
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Trying to quench our need for 1/70 scale speed!
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04-01-2006, 07:43 PM
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Oh, wait a minute!
sorry the NASCARTM type of motorworks has a 3.4 rpm motor. Sorry again, i said 2.6 because that's what the motorworks car has with the charger and the remote.
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MOTORWORKS
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04-01-2006, 08:13 PM
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Always pleased to get some higher rpm motors. Anyone know if motorworks cars will work with a different type of remote or if you have any extras laying around?
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04-02-2006, 08:50 PM
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I HAVE SOME!!!
I happen to have some but knowing these r rare and i've never used mail to send stuff. I have 3 remotes (they use 3 AAA's) and 3 chargers (they use 3 AA's) and i would like to send you a set of 1 each. Maybe you can help me out. Like send a box and i'll send it back with the stuff.
P.S. if it all goes i'll need to know what freq. you have have 49 or 27?
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04-02-2006, 09:00 PM
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I have one I won on ebay that's coming in the mail. I think right now I have a 27 and a 49. I'll wait to see what frequency I get in the mail. That will at least give me a charging station. If I do end up needing another remote, I'm sure we can figure something out in trade.
Thanks much for your willingness to help. It'll take probably 6-9 days to get the one in the mail.
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04-03-2006, 02:27 PM
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Oh Okay
Oh i was thinking of giving you one set for something original that you made or something, but you don't need one now so until you need one i would trade but you'd have to help me out with the mail and all okay?
This aren't the ones i have but I LOVE ANY KIND OF MOTORWORKS
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MOTORWORKS
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Last edited by Snake Mod; 04-03-2006 at 02:30 PM.
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04-06-2006, 04:27 PM
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I got my motorworks SUV in the mail yesterday. I haven't had a chance to try it out yet. it is a 49mhz. This will drive two of the motorworks cars I have (I hope). I did notice that the crystal used in the remote is a real common type.
For my 27mhz motorworks, I think i'm going to mount a SPDT switch on the remote with two crystals. I'll take a 27mhz crystal out of one of the other remotes I have. That way the remote should be able to drive both with the flip of a switch. I really should do that to all of my remotes anyways.
6 batteries is a lot for one of these though... I don't have that many batteries to go around, kind of disappointed there.
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04-08-2006, 11:47 PM
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keep me posted
show me the SPDT switch you think you're putting in, i'm having trouble putting in my lights in my car but not giving up just yet. Here's the pic: (yes i know there's a wire missing from the switch. The switch broke on the switch if that make sense)
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Last edited by Snake Mod; 04-08-2006 at 11:50 PM.
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06-08-2006, 09:51 PM
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Back Again
Hey Jazz, opened up your motrworks yet? I was wondering if you did any modifications to your MotorWorks? You already know I did but I was thinking if Jazz knew if a heat sink or any thing could go over the motor to cool it. On top of the problem, I don't understand How because I only have one Zip-Zap stock battery in it and no other mods and I'm wondering if the motor is sucking out the juice to perform well. It takes a while for the car (maybe 15 20 minutes of 50 degree climing) to overheat. Hope you can help  . Soon or later if I can figure the overheat prob., I'll do this:
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06-08-2006, 11:03 PM
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Those motors can operate and pretty high temperatures. I'm not completely sure what you're asking. Is this the SS motor in the motorworks that you're using?
Also, it's been a while since I've working with diodes in circuits. To me, it looks like that diode on the + side of that second battery is a bad idea since when the first diode is on, that one will also turn on creating a loop. Also, the typical diode operates at 0.7V, so using that diode will only gain you ~ .5-.8V assuming it works as planned.
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06-09-2006, 09:30 PM
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Yes, I'm wondering if you have an idea with the Heatsink I would like to attach to the 30,000 rpm SS motor.
Was there supposed to be a pic attached to your post because you asked "Is this the SS motor in the motorworks your using?" I don't know what your seeing.
The "bad idea diode" is in Bit Science so.., Maybe you want to Review the Safe Cell Mod yes I know there was no pictures but I'll be the one to do the actual testing.
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06-09-2006, 10:23 PM
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I've run my SS motor in my zz and i've never had a problem with heat issues. The ss themselves that use 3 cells never have heat problems either. I really don't think you'll need one.
There wasn't a picture with my last message.
as for the save cell diode, I see how it can work, and it should. The guy that tested it never said how he charged the cells or if that second cell drained while sitting there.
You'll have to experiment yourself. Also, you are going to activate the bottome diode in reverse too, so that will use another .7V. I would expect your reverse speed to decrease.
I've run dual cell on 5-6 bits before and never had a problem with them. It even helps the steering out. It seems like a lot of hassle for something I'd only use if I were trying to run 4.
I hope that helps, i'm a little preoccupied at the moment to give it a strong look.
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