Project drag car

neurokinetik · #1 12-20-2003, 04:24 PM

I'm starting to build one of my XMods to be a drag car. Picked up another 180 motor, which will be rewound for ultimate speed. This car will be RWD only, because AWD has been hurting the top end on my previous efforts.

First order of business: tires.

I picked these up locally. They are made by SoReal Concepts, for a 1/24th scale dragster. The rear slicks are very soft, they should act just like the tires on a real top fuel or funnycar. I also included a pic of a normal XMods wheel and tire for comparison.

xxspeednplayaxx · #2 12-20-2003, 07:13 PM

wow dude sounds awsome, how may winds is it possible to remove from a 180 without stessing the ecu and electronics ect, or having the motor overheat too quickly

neurokinetik · #3 12-20-2003, 07:22 PM

I will be using the FET upgraded car for this one, so I can pretty much do whatever I want with it. I will be winding the motor by hand, going to some thicker wire, like 26Ga. I'll probably start at 25 turns and go from there.

As for motor overheating, well, the car is only going to be running for a few seconds at a time, so that isn't a big concern either.

xxspeednplayaxx · #4 12-20-2003, 07:31 PM

thats cool dude, when i get my xmod ill prolly upgrade the fets run 6 cells and a rewounf 180...im still learning about the fets tho... good hunting o yea btw.. so by upgrading fets you can run as big of a motor as you want(allows more current draw)? but a fet upgrade wont allow you to run more cells (more voltage if in series)?

-- look mom i learned something!!

neurokinetik · #5 12-21-2003, 03:56 PM

Well, I tried those tires on the car, and they are a dissapointment to say the least. Maybe they'll work better on tile or concrete, but they are horrible on carpet. The car moves forward about six inches, then the tires break loose and the car spins completely around. I'm also sure that the fact that I have to run the batteries in the full forward position to clear the tires doesn't help.

Hmm.

Well, I think I'm putting in two additional batteries, located in the rear bumper. That should help traction a bit.

neurokinetik · #6 12-21-2003, 09:11 PM

Next order of business is the motor. Starting with a 180 motor, I hand wound an armature with 30 turns of 26Ga wire. Surprisingly, this combo only pulls 500mA. Sounds decently fast, and with the amount of wire that is on that armature, it should have a ton of torque.

danny_v_l · #7 12-23-2003, 10:52 AM

good idea if u want to make that think fly u should think of away to put a team oriron(sp) elitmoded motor (for micro rs4), just my two cents

Mr BigShot · #8 12-23-2003, 02:47 PM

Those tire's look pretty cool .

M E R R Y C H R I S T M A S

nobodyhere962 · #9 12-24-2003, 04:28 PM

i got my xmod im just too lazy to open it

striker289 · #10 12-28-2003, 06:51 PM

dude a drag car would rock i want to see the finsished result when do u think it will be done

AUDI-TT · #11 12-28-2003, 06:57 PM

dude, u know what u could try, get like 3 BCG batts and stick them together, u gotta a 3.6 volt 100 mah battery, make 4 of those, charge em up shove it in ur car, i dont know if it would fry the pcb or not tho, so if u try it and u break ur car dont yell at me.

sherifx · #12 12-29-2003, 09:24 AM

Neuro, I love how you're really pushing the limits of the XMod capabilities! Interesting that you're running a 30 winds of 26ga wire and its only drawing 500mA. I really think that the CF chassis that's being discussed would really help your abilities. You could run better electronics, lighter parts & better battery choices. Good luck man and keep us posted!

sherif

micro kid · #13 12-29-2003, 09:43 PM

neuro you better hope those dont act like the real tires at the end of the run. the real ones sometimes have chunks missing after a run.

neurokinetik · #14 01-19-2004, 07:03 PM

Here is a pic of the body, as I showed in another thread.

I cut down the weight of my Civic body by gluing the bumpers, hood, and sideskirts in place, eliminating all of the screws except the rear body mount, and trimming away any unneeded plastic inside the body, particularly all of the posts where the screws used to attach.

Yeah, I'm silly like that.

Actually the rear bumper was done to fit the two additional cells, but I figured why stop there?

The two batteries fit in the spot where the velcro strip is located, and they rest on a small "shelf" that I made that extends from the back of the chassis all the way to the rear bumper. This setup has been race-tested, and stays put even in a rear impact.

The glue I used to fasten on the body pieces is slow-setting CA glue, specifically extra thick Maxi-Cure from Hobbytown. It cures in 10-25 seconds, and holds really well.